Rem 700 issues.

S

stumper1300

New member
Gun is a Remington 700 .22-250 bull barrel. We don't know the round count, but The bore is shiny, rifling looks great and the bolt looks to have never been cycled. The gun really could have been NIB if we had a box. LOL. Anyways, the rifle will not hold it together. 5 shots taken and you might get 2 to be within a 1/2 inch of each other. The rest will be 3-6 inches away in random directions. We have tried....

-Checked all action screws, stock screws ,all are tight
-Scope bases and rings are tight
-we have tried 3 NEW scopes
- 5 BOXES of factory ammo
-Barrel does not contact the stock, full floated

Shooting from a lead sled on a solid bench. We are experienced shooters. This thing is not far from becoming a post in the ground!!

What are we missing? My only thought is that the overall length of the factory rounds might be to short ? We are going to crank up the reloader and do some more testing. HELP!!!! Thanks.
 
A lot of factory ammo leaves a lot to be desired as far as consistency. Your handloading should improve things considerably. For instance I have a Ruger 77 in .350 Mag and factory ammo was shooting 2 1/2 and 3 inch groups with any bullet weight. I worked up a hunting load and it shoots consistently into 1/2 inch with no mods to the rifle.
I have found Remington ammo to be about the most inconsistent of any I've tried in a number of calibers.
 
2 suggestions:

Remington seems to put a lot of free bore in their products. My best buddies 700 in 270 Win wouldn't group factory 130 grain bullets from anyone but would do okay on Hornady Custom 140 and 150 grain weights. He said "it couldn't be done" but I loaded some boat tailed 130 to the length of the magazine box and presto! The handloads did look sorta weird with the crimping cannelure way past the case mouth but.....Groups under an inch at a football field.

Also, check the twist rate on that 22-250. Some of them have a 1:12 twist which wont stabilize a lot of bullets over 55 grains.
 
You can try buying every type box ammo out there to find the best box ammo or Handload. The twist will tell you what weight range bullet to choose. A wood stock should have a solid bead and barrel should float full lenth about the thickness of a nickel. Use good quality bullets. Good luck
 
Twist of all Remingtons has been 1:14. (Sorry, I originally wrote 1:12, but knew better.)


A few things to check:

1. If the rifle has been glassbedded, make sure there's clearance under the recoil plate and that the front screw hole doesn't have bedding compound in it.

2. Not all "free-floated" barrels have sufficient clearance to not bounce off the barrel channel under vibration. Make sure it has at least 1/16" or more of clearance.

3. Make sure the mount base screws are tight.

4. Check the bedding to see if the stock isn't cracked at the front action screw. Check the torque of both screws to assure they're tight, but not beyond the stock's limitations.

5. There should be nothing touching the barrel when shot, but the forend should be rested firmly and consistently. I don't use lead sleds. People reported inconsistent accuracy from them. Everything should be done to assure consistent shot-to-shot back pressure at the butt and good forend cradling.
 
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Get a few 1/4" diameter lead balls then slowly push one through a clean bore breech to muzzle. If you sense a tight spot, mark the tight area on the barrel. Then do this two more times. If the bore seems tight at the same place each time, something may have squeezed the barrel at that point and it's unbalancing bullets. They won't shoot straight.

Sometimes you can see the pinched area looking down the outside of the barrel with the muzzle near your eye.
 
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Remington uses 1 in 14 for the .22-250, but I very much doubt that's the issue. Assuming it's a factory barrel with a good crown and you're using light bullets, it's far more likely to be the bedding.
Possibly the floated barrel too. That guarantees nothing. Some rifles like it, some don't. The only way to find out is to try it. Your's needs to be tested with a pressure point.
I'd start by loosening the stock screws and checking to see if the rifle moves in the stock. If it rocks or wobbles in any direction, it's not bedded properly.
Then put a pressure point in. Bit of bedding compound an inch or so aft of the end of the forestock with release agent on the barrel. Or for testing, a wee bit of cardboard.
 
Try some Boretech Foaming bore cleaner that turns blue with copper. Give it about 15 minutes instead of the recommended 30 for the first try. Rather than cleaning it out, spray more in to "chase" the first batch out. It will be nearly purple if there's a lot of copper in there. Yours wouldn't be the first .22-250 that was full of copper.

Finish with KG12 just to make sure, if you have any, and your preferred normal cleaning practices.
 
That thing should put any factory ammo under 2" at 100 yds. Have you tried contacting Remington? I have a freind that used to have a gun shop/range that ordered a new 700 Varmint about 10 years ago for a guy that had almost no rifleing grooves the last 4" of the barrel. I would really inspect the muzzel end closely.
 
Sorry, it's GunSlick, not Bore-Tech.

No, at least not to my knowledge. It does say it will damage anodized aluminium though.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that's good to know.

It's probably a very strong ammonia-based solution.
 
Sorry again.:o



The pictures I found online seemed close but not quite right. I finally got a chance to go look at the actual can.



The product is SafariLand BCF Bore Cleaning Foam.



It doesn't appear to contain ammonia. It's primary ingredient is 2-Aminoethanol (Monoethanolamine) according to the MSDS.



I can't believe how much and how fast the stuff removes copper.

yneru5ut.jpg
 
Loaded up some 40 grain Vmax and it dropped it to 3/4 inch groups. Not sure how we missed this, but it appears that 2 inches have been removed from the barrel. The holes for the front sight are gone.... Played around with the load and tried some 55 grainers, group went to crap right away with the 55's. Sorry I didn't get the load data,something came up and my buddy had to split.
 
Its drilled and tapped for a rear sight. After finding several pics of the BDLs with sights,I assumed they were factory.
Thanks

Edit, its drilled for Unertl mounts ,not sights
 
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something may have squeezed the barrel at that point
On a bull barrel? That would be some ferocious squeezing.

It's drilled for rear sights??
Probably for a base for one of the extremely long(old style target) scopes. Varmint(bull) barrel rifles didn't have sights nor were they D&T for them.
 
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