HoytFlinger
Inactive
I just got a beautiful Rem 660 in .308. Hopefully it will be here middle of the week. Anyone know if Limbsaver makes a prefit recoil pad that will work on a 660? I have asked them, but havent gotten a response.
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Rem 660 recoil pad
- Thread starter HoytFlinger
- Start date
HoytFlinger
Inactive
I didn't figure they made one specifically for a 660, but was hoping they made one similar size, 4 5/8 x 1 1/2, that would work. I don't have the patience to do a grind to fit and I don't know of any gunsmiths around me. Plenty of gunshops, but no smiths. I'll just get a slip on for now.
No real patience required. Just buy a cheap sanding wheel that attaches to your drill and some 80 grit paper. There is a Youtube video of Larry Potterfield showing how to do it right with a large disk sander an a jig but you can do a pretty good job freehand if you are careful. I've done several and it really doesn't take much time.
True, it won't look as perfect as you would get with a good gunsmith but it can look just fine for a field gun.
True, it won't look as perfect as you would get with a good gunsmith but it can look just fine for a field gun.
I buy the largest grind to fit Limbsavers and then I do not grind them.
Recoil pressure is inversely proportional to area.
But pain is not linear. It has a threshold of ~ 20 psi.
You may need all the area to keep the pressure under 20 psi.
This is aesthetically unacceptable to some. I suggest covering the reveal with a cheekrest bag.
Recoil pressure is inversely proportional to area.
But pain is not linear. It has a threshold of ~ 20 psi.
You may need all the area to keep the pressure under 20 psi.
This is aesthetically unacceptable to some. I suggest covering the reveal with a cheekrest bag.
Dixie Gunsmithing
Moderator Emeritus
Just buy a cheap sanding wheel that attaches to your drill
After I finished gunsmithing school, apprenticed, and then started a shop all those years ago, that's how I first did it. However, I mounted a drill on my bench, when needed, upside down, using a water clamp, with the chuck sticking over the end of the bench to put the wheel on. You can learn to get them darn close by eyeballing them, and using a carpenters bevel gauge to check the angles with.
I don't know how well this will work today, as yesterdays drills were made from aluminum castings, and todays are plastic, so I wouldn't torque one down too hard. I remember when plastic drills first came out, which was when GE bought Black & Decker. The new plastic drill lasted about a month. Before then, B&D had good tools, and the buyout ruined them.