Howdy Again
I may have misspoke. The method I described works for a Colt or colt clones. As you can see in my previous photo there is a decent sized slot cut right across the hand and the spring is held in place by the interference of the bottom curve of the spring against the sides or the slot. There is no crimping involved. Quite simple to drive out with the method I described.
So I took my old EuroArms Remmie apart today to see what the situation is with it.
Learn something every day I always say.
Been quite a while since I took my Remmie apart and I don't think I ever took a really good look at how the handspring is held in place. Clearly the tab surrounding the spring has been deformed (crimped) to hold the spring. There is no curve at the bottom of the spring as there is on the Colt. Dunno if my method would really work for the Remmie hand and spring. If I was going to try, this is how I would set it up, balanced across the jaws of a small vice.
But then I noticed what I thought was crack. Sure enough, under a 10X loupe I clearly saw a crack near the base of the spring, and a couple of smaller ones along the spring. No, the cracks do not go all the way through, they are only visible on one side. But they are cracks. Clearly they were generated when the metal was peened over to hold the spring. I dunno what the hands on your Remmies look like, but this is the hand on my old Euroarms Remmie (actually made by Armi San Paolo in 1975). I'm sure those cracks have been there since day one, normal operation of the gun does not stress them, but I would be leery of trying my technique on this spring for fear of breaking the tab right off.
So my apologies if I led anybody down the garden path, I certainly did not mean to.