Reloading SNS Coated Bullets

A

ADClope

New member
I picked up some SNS Coated 115 gr 9mm bullets locally recently, and wanted to start loading some of them, my question, is that I thought there were a couple differences between loading the powder coated (red) style bullets as opposed to the jacketed stuff? Or maybe that was just lead or plated.

Anyways, was just looking for some more information out there regarding this, I went out to SNS's website, but they don't seem to have much special instruction regarding loading their coated stuff, do you just load them up the same as jacketed?

**EDIT, I just found where it's recommended to load them as you would lead rounds.

Thanks
 
I just started using SNS Hi-Tek red coated bullets also in handgun calibers 9mm, .38 and .45. Don't really have too much to say about them other than they do considerably reduce smoking over standard lubricated cast bullets which of course is a plus. The coating seems to act like a lubricant with the result that the bullets seat overly easy. Because of that I apply a rather hard taper crimp. I have the 9mm 125 gr TC at .356 diameter; the DEWC .38 at .359 diameter; and the .45 200 gr SWC at .451 diameter. The latter would be better off at .452. But the bright red bullets are very pretty. I haven't fired enough yet to make any accuracy comparisons.
 
I have loaded the coated bullets using data for lead and I haven't run into any problems. Plated depends on the quality of plating; some of the thinner plating I treat like lead and some of the thicker plating I use jacketed info.

Just to add to the confusion the Speer manual gives the same powder charge for a particular weight and list different OAL for their various profiles.
 
Coated bullets can be shot at speeds past 2400fps with no leading. I've been coating my own for a few years now and I run some fast 10mm rounds through my pistol with no issues. Also starting 300BO soon.

With that being said I use jacketed data and start at the bottom. FWIW some cast data mimics FMJ data....depends on the caliber, powder, and source. Seating depth is your biggest concern IMHO. I have a RN 125 Lee mold that (after coating) requires a deep seat because of the extra coating on the nose digging into the rifling. So make sure you plunk them and start low on the charge weight.
 
I've been shooting 38 cast bullet's for around 40 yrs, haven't really learned much. I think an important thing with them is bullet weight. Two favorite bullet's over the years, 148gr wadcutter and 150 KT. that wad cutter has alwys shot really well for me with Bulls Eye powder. Today in 148gr mold is not working right and I haven't a clue whats wrong with it. But I do have a 150gr KTHP and it shoot's very well. I would not get the HP if I were to replace it. I also am pretty conservative in powder charge's with all the handgun's I load for. A difference in one tenth grain seem's to mean a lot and as hard as I push my rifles, I don't push handgun's. Now I'd like to say the 38 is very accurate and I could because I've read so many guy's that have said that. Your not gonna believe this but in over 40 years I have never fired any handgun at a paper target. I simply shoot at that spot over there and if I hit close, call it good!

38 Spec is great fun and loading cast bullet's it is extremely low on recoil. Most guns shooting cast are like that! I did not own a 38 back in those days, I had 357's. Hated the factory 357 stuff, to much recoil for me. A friend had me try his 357 shooting 38 spec cast load and I've been doing 38's ever since! But, use caution as I really haven't learned much about any handgun, they are just fun to shoot. My 32 long is a super small game gun, I can regularly hit that target over there! Have fun, shoot cast.
 
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