borngeechee
New member
Hello guys, I don't know if this has been asked but... when reloading using the data in reloading manuals do you start with their minimum load or do you go straight to a higher load?
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Reloading newbie
- Thread starter borngeechee
- Start date
brasscollector
New member
Use the starting loads for rifle or handgun and work up.
Just had some range time this morning with my 308. First two test batches fired fine, no pressure signs. First shot with the third and I had primer flowing back into the firing pin hole and slightly hard extraction, I did not continue with the rest of that batch. The third batch was not over "book/internet" spec.
Further testing indicated I would get better results with a different powder.
Just had some range time this morning with my 308. First two test batches fired fine, no pressure signs. First shot with the third and I had primer flowing back into the firing pin hole and slightly hard extraction, I did not continue with the rest of that batch. The third batch was not over "book/internet" spec.
Further testing indicated I would get better results with a different powder.
condor bravo
New member
While it is certainly prudent to start with minimum loads, I usually start midrange between minimum and maximum.
Welcome to TFL borngeechee.
For the new handloader, it is best to start low and work up. I recommend this approach until you get a good deal of personal experience behind you.
And even after you have a great deal of personal experience; the basic rule of "start low, and work up" will still apply. The only thing that changes is that with experience, you'll know the occasional situation where it isn't necessary to start at the very bottom. But none of that is important to you right now.
What cartridge are you loading for?
What is the specific purpose of the ammunition you want to load?
What bullet are you using?
What powder(s) do you have?
What gun is going to shoot these?
For the new handloader, it is best to start low and work up. I recommend this approach until you get a good deal of personal experience behind you.
And even after you have a great deal of personal experience; the basic rule of "start low, and work up" will still apply. The only thing that changes is that with experience, you'll know the occasional situation where it isn't necessary to start at the very bottom. But none of that is important to you right now.
What cartridge are you loading for?
What is the specific purpose of the ammunition you want to load?
What bullet are you using?
What powder(s) do you have?
What gun is going to shoot these?
I was of the philospehy6 in general to start about mid point.
I recently had to go back down to basics of low load and work up and I got the accuracy results I was after.
So its amended, 5 or 10 rounds at minimum, work up another 5 in 1 grain increments (assuming rifle, pistols much lower) and see what results are.
You can go all the way up to max or stop it between mid and max and assess.
Supposedly there is another accuracy below max (and one down low)
Quote 1.5 grains below max but that's tough as no manuals are the same for max (or minum).
Experience tells you but as you would work up to mas in 1/2 grain increments then you may also see the pressure signs
Sometimes those do not exist, hared bolt extraction is one to look for, least bit of sticky bolt back off.
While I have not seen it, its reported you can get over pressure and have no sighs but a case measurement confirms it, so if you are up above max and its not shown classic indicators its time to reassess.
I recently had to go back down to basics of low load and work up and I got the accuracy results I was after.
So its amended, 5 or 10 rounds at minimum, work up another 5 in 1 grain increments (assuming rifle, pistols much lower) and see what results are.
You can go all the way up to max or stop it between mid and max and assess.
Supposedly there is another accuracy below max (and one down low)
Quote 1.5 grains below max but that's tough as no manuals are the same for max (or minum).
Experience tells you but as you would work up to mas in 1/2 grain increments then you may also see the pressure signs
Sometimes those do not exist, hared bolt extraction is one to look for, least bit of sticky bolt back off.
While I have not seen it, its reported you can get over pressure and have no sighs but a case measurement confirms it, so if you are up above max and its not shown classic indicators its time to reassess.
borngeechee
New member
Thanks for the info I'm reloading 308 using hornady 150 grain fmj with imr 4064 for the ruger gunsite scout.Welcome to TFL borngeechee.
For the new handloader, it is best to start low and work up. I recommend this approach until you get a good deal of personal experience behind you.
And even after you have a great deal of personal experience; the basic rule of "start low, and work up" will still apply. The only thing that changes is that with experience, you'll know the occasional situation where it isn't necessary to start at the very bottom. But none of that is important to you right now.
What cartridge are you loading for?
What is the specific purpose of the ammunition you want to load?
What bullet are you using?
What powder(s) do you have?
What gun is going to shoot these?
borngeechee
New member
Thanks for the info. I can tell imma learn a lot here.
reloader28
New member
I'm another mid range starter here. My favorite groups are always just under max.
There just might be a reason they are called "Starting Loads". I have been reloading off and on since 1969 and for a "new to me" cartridge I'll start at the beginning and work up (since I like reloading and shooting, none of my reloading time is "wasted"; it's all reloading, all fun). If/when I get a new powder or bullet I'll drop down to starting loads, not because I fear anything, just good reloading 101. Every load and results, are recorded, and sometimes targets, are kept on my computer and I have a few 3 ring binders. For calibers I loaded before (I have reloaded for every gun I own except my rimfires) I have personal data for past reloads, and even though I'll refer to my manuals quite often, I have good info which I use for load data.
I guess anyone can start anywhere between min. and max. but why? (If you count pennies when reloading, starting loads are cheaper than max. loads; less powder). I'm in no hurry to find that "perfect load" as it's all reloading and shooting and if I didn't enjoy it all, I certainly wouldn't do it!
I guess anyone can start anywhere between min. and max. but why? (If you count pennies when reloading, starting loads are cheaper than max. loads; less powder). I'm in no hurry to find that "perfect load" as it's all reloading and shooting and if I didn't enjoy it all, I certainly wouldn't do it!
Average Joe
New member
I start in the middle. To low and you can have a squib load, and to high can be bad for you and the gun. Never start at max.
Mikld nailed it!!!! It's part of the fun. Keep good notes for reference too. I love working up loads. Several powders and bullet combos for one cartridge. I load a box and shoot as needed. It's a hobby for me. Not a financial endeavor. Start at the bottom. Follow the recipe exactly.
If the correct primer is used and it is set correctly, you shouldn't have a squib!
You could be using the wrong recipe for the projectile you are using.
Take the 5.56 x 45 M-16 (AR-15 .223 whichever way you look at it.)
the 55 Grain Jacketed SPT calls for a starting load of 19.0 using IMR-4198 (This info comes from the Lyman Manual.) If you get a squib from that, something else is wrong. In which case you really need to find out the issue before moving on!
By the way, I am new here!
You could be using the wrong recipe for the projectile you are using.
Take the 5.56 x 45 M-16 (AR-15 .223 whichever way you look at it.)
the 55 Grain Jacketed SPT calls for a starting load of 19.0 using IMR-4198 (This info comes from the Lyman Manual.) If you get a squib from that, something else is wrong. In which case you really need to find out the issue before moving on!
By the way, I am new here!
Wreck-n-Crew
New member
One other note I thought worth mentioning. If your back yard is not a range and you have to make a trip, you can always work up a few different loads to test and take them with you.
I usually work up 10 each starting at the bottom and load up to middle of the road or medium/high.
What really helps to know is the characteristics of the power you are using and more will come as you progress. What I have found in pistol loads is that most fast pistol powders are better for light to medium loads for accuracy and slower burning powders are better for middle and up for accuracy and cleaner burn (less soot). Its a general finding and some powders vary a little. But the burn rate chart will be a friend and you can google it...pops right up.
Welcome to TFL!
I usually work up 10 each starting at the bottom and load up to middle of the road or medium/high.
What really helps to know is the characteristics of the power you are using and more will come as you progress. What I have found in pistol loads is that most fast pistol powders are better for light to medium loads for accuracy and slower burning powders are better for middle and up for accuracy and cleaner burn (less soot). Its a general finding and some powders vary a little. But the burn rate chart will be a friend and you can google it...pops right up.
Welcome to TFL!