Reloading info for M1 Garand?

S

SDC

New member
Hi, everyone. I've been reloading for my shotguns and handguns for a year and a half or so, but now I'd like to try my hand at reloading for some of my rifles, specifically 2 M1 rifles (M1D and standard) and a couple of bolt-action rifles (.308 and .30-06). My biggest worry about reloading for the M1 is that I've heard that if the gas-port pressure isn't right, it can end up bending (if not cracking or splintering) the operating-rod. Does anyone have some tried and true recipes for .308 and .30-06, loads that will give me the accuracy I'm looking for, but won't put undue stress on my rifles? Thanks in advance for any help?
Stacey Cherwonak in the People's Republik of Kanada
 
Hornady's latest reloading manual (5th edition) has a special section devoted to reloading for the Garand. I think you'll find that it's an easy cartridge to reload for.
 
SDC, in loading for the Garand the best bet is not to use a bullet over the 173 grain US Match bullet, and to stick to powders in the IMR4895 burning range. If you do that and stick to mild loads your op-rod will be in fine shape. I like a load of 47 grains of the non-canister 4895 that I am using under either a 147 or 150 grain FMJ bullet. It will shoot better in my Garand better than my old eyes can see at 100 yards.

[Edited by Southla1 on 01-23-2001 at 07:42 PM]
 
My two cents worth...

You want to use a powder with a similar burn rate to IMR-4895, as mentioned above. Then, just basic reloading prodedure: START LOW AND WORK UP! Some powders can produce higher gas port pressures which in turn will cause the system to cycle more violently than is normal, and create some serious damage to your weapon.

Just load some rounds with the starting load from a reliable manual, then maybe four or five more rounds increased by 0.5gr, then maybe four or five more at 1.0gr from the starting load. Write down everything! Keep increasing the load, (SMALL increments) until your critter finds something it likes. Just a reiteration of the basics that you probably know, though.

The Speer manual reccomends Hogdon 380, (H380), IMR-4895, and IMR-4064 for use in gas-operated semi-automatic match rifles in 30-06 using a 165gr .308 bullet. These should give you enough choices, esp. when certain types may not be available.

HTH.
Regards,
S.
 
Every Garand owner should bookmark Culver's Shooting Pages. Tons of good info and talk forums dedicated to M1 Garands.

Be sure to check out the link to Lane's Tips.

Now, in return for this information you must promise to never devulge the price Garands sell for in Canada. -- Kernel
 
Thanks, everyone. I'll be making a trip for components this weekend.
As for the price M1s go for in Canada, I have a hard time believing that sometimes myself. :-)
Thanks again.
 
The advice about powders is correct. I'd add in AA2520 also.

Now, about resizing. DO NOT FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED WITH THE DIE! You'll oversize, and get only one or two reloads!

Clean & lube the case as normal. Now, back out the sizing die so that it DOES NOT touch the shoulder. Smoke the case neck/shoulder using a candle, and keep screwing th die in until it just kisses the shoulder. Next, remove the recoil spring from your Garand and reassemble the rifle without the spring. Drop a resized round in the chamber and, gently, try to close the bolt. If it closes easily, you've already gone to far. Assuming that it does not, screw the die in a little more. Repeat until you can close the bolt without having to force it. Back the die out just a little, and try another case. Work back & forth until you have determined the minimum amount of resizing necessary to chamber an empty, resized case.

Now, reinstall the spring in your rifle and load a clip full of rounds with your selected load. A word of caution here--crimps of any kind have NO PLACE on a bottlenecked rifle case! WITH THE SAFETY ON, AND THE RIFLE POINTED IN A SAVE DIRECTION load the clip and cycle your loaded rounds through the rifle. Pull the op-rod all the way back, and let it go. Do not follow it forward. Assuming all rounds cycle properly, you're good to go. If they don't, save the rounds for a bolt gun, or pull the bullets and resize just a little more. When loaded rounds will cycle through the rifle, you're ready to fire test them. Assuming that they fire OK, you're now free to start working on all the variables involved in "working up a load."

One more caviat, For maximum case life, DO NOT REMOVE ALL THE LUBE FROM A LOADED ROUND. Cases streach and a clean, dry, tight fitting round (or a rough chamber) will assure minimum reloads before the head seperates.

Questions or comments? E-mail me.


Yr. Obt. Svnt.
 
SDC, I must apologize for not mentioning yesterday in my first post on this subject (I was in hurry to go feed my face :D) that when it comes to loading components for the garand you can do a lot worse, price and quality wise, than to check with Bartlett Reloading http://www.gibrass.com/gunpowder.html or with HiTech Ammo http://www.zcr.com/hitech for surplus components, powder included. For example a one pound can of IMR4895 at the local store costs $19.95 PLUS TAX! An 8 pound keg from HiTech was delivered to my door for $84. That included shipping and HazMat! I admit that its a non canister grade of 4895 which means that the burning rate may differ a bit from canister grade but by starting at the starting loads in the manual and also the loading data shipped with the powder itself its just as good as the canister grade, its just that the max loads may differ a bit, but then again a Garand does not need max loads to begin with.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top