relining barrel??

G

Grant 14

New member
I am going to have a machinist reline a barrel. My question is "Should I reline first and then blue or should I have it blued and then reline???". I am concerned that blueing after relining might leave acid between the liner and the barrel and cause corrosion. Any ideas? Thanks, Grant.
 
It depends on the type of blueing. Cold blue or rust blue, I will reline first. Hot blue will probably go the other way around.

-TL

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Should I reline first and then blue or should I have it blued and then reline???
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Bluing is finishing. The reason it is called"finishing" is that it's the last step in the process.
I am concerned that blueing after relining might leave acid between the liner and the barrel and cause corrosion.
Click to expand...
Bluing does not involve acids, it uses very caustic alkaline/basic salts in a high temperature solution.

If the bluing is done properly, you should not have any salts left once it's rinsed, but I know it happens a lot. If your liner is installed properly, you should not have any gaps for the salts to seep into.
 
Salt solution in hot blueing attacks soldering. No problem if rust blueing or cold blueing is used for finishing. Epoxy glue has become popular for relining. It could be ok.

-TL

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Didn't reline a barrel with epoxy. But I will use high temperature epoxy considering the heat of firing gun. High temp epoxy works up to 600F (315C).

Salt solution is aqueous. Its boiling point should be similar to water, which is 212F (100C). 280F (140C) sounds a bit high, but it is not impossible. The steam in rust blueing should be cooler than that.

All in all, the type of blueing is definitely a factor to consider.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
Solubles in water raise the boiling point (and lower the freezing point.)
Hot blue tank concentration should be adjusted to keep it boiling at 285F (or as specified by the salts vendor.) Vaporize enough water to raise the concentration and therefore the boiling point, and you get that purple hue.

Temperature in a rust blue humidity cabinet should be well below boiling.
 
Jim Watson said:
Solubles in water raise the boiling point (and lower the freezing point.)
Hot blue tank concentration should be adjusted to keep it boiling at 285F (or as specified by the salts vendor.) Vaporize enough water to raise the concentration and therefore the boiling point, and you get that purple hue.

Temperature in a rust blue humidity cabinet should be well below boiling.
Click to expand...
That's what I thought too. The chemicals can change the boiling point.

The vapor temperature in rust blueing humidity chamber is nothing. It is the during the conversion process that's high. I would think it is slightly higher than water boiling as it is not pressurized.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
The temperature in the conversion tank should be right at the boiling point corrected for altitude, since it is supposed to be clean water.
 
Well I know a lot more now. I need to talk to the smithy that is going to do the bluing. I am not sure what method he uses. Thanks to all. Grant.
 
Jim Watson said:
The temperature in the conversion tank should be right at the boiling point corrected for altitude, since it is supposed to be clean water.
Click to expand...
Steam could also be used too (my preferred method). It is still around boiling point of water. Could be slightly higher if pressure is elevated in the steam pipe.

I can't do hot blueing, so rust blueing is the farthest I can go. It is actually pretty nice. Cold blue isn't bad if done right.

-TL

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
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