Refinishing SAR-3

[MikeTx]

I took my SAR-3 apart and re-blued it, and sanded down the wood until most of the finish was removed. I then painted the wood with 3 coats of gray primer, sanding between each, and finished up with 4 coats of good quality camo green spray paint.

It looks good, but I feared this would happen: Solvents are taking the paint off!

Any suggestions on something to cover the paint with after I re-paint it, so the cleaning solvents won't mess it up? Thanks for any tips you may have.

 

[Coltdriver]

I read where the spray on truck bed lining that you can find in an auto parts store makes a real nice, durable finish that is impervious to about anything!

 

[MikeTx]

Thanks, may try that. Someone else told me that clear laqeur would work as well. I guess I'll find out.

 

[Badger Arms]

Most gun solvents will eat laquer. I'd suggest a satin polyurethane finish on top of bare wood. But then, I like wood.

 

[MikeTx]

I like wood as well, but this wood, is UGLY!

 

[Rocklobster]

I took my SAR 3 down to the bare wood, re-stained it with some Pilkington's English Red spirit stain, and finished it off with 4 coatings of tung oil. Looks/works excellent.

 

[Doubleought]

After removing the pine sap the Romanians call varnish, I finished my SAR-1 with 3 coats of boiled linseed oil and a final coat of Volunteer Ordnance Works' "military" finish.

What ugly???

 

[MikeTx]

Yours is nice, but mine had three different grains of wood on it! It sucked under the varnish.

 

[sleeping dog]

My SAR-1 had three different woods on it, too.

I stripped the petrified molasses off the wood parts, then used a 2-part bleach on the pumpkin-colored buttstock and charcoal-colored lower handguard.

I used some ebony stain on the lighter wood, then mahogany stain on the dark wood and walnut stain on the buttstock. It sort of matches now. I finished it with tung oil.

All-in-all, truck liner spray seems simpler.

Regards.