I am going to refinish an old S&W 39-2 9mm and I need some suggestions on how to redo the frame. It is made of what looks like aluminum alloy. It looks like it has been carried in a leather hoster and the finish is gone off both sides if the frame. My question is can it be stripped down and repainted? If so what would be the best paint the use? Would DuraCoat work on Aluminum? Any help would be appreciated.
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Refinishing S&W 39-2 NEED HELP!
- Thread starter Brodieray
- Start date
You can't blue aluminum. Dipping aluminum parts will dissolve it in the bluing salts. Send it out to Cerrakote it instead. It's more durable that Duracote.
Trinidad College now does that. We've two instructors who went there to get certified as Cerrakote instructors.
ETA: If I had to do it myself, I'd go Duracote.
Trinidad College now does that. We've two instructors who went there to get certified as Cerrakote instructors.
ETA: If I had to do it myself, I'd go Duracote.
2ndsojourn
New member
Check out a local anodizer for the frame. There's lots of colors available if you want to get creative. But anything beyond DIY will probably wind up costing more that the gun is worth.
If the frame is Aluminum, it was most likley originally Anodized, although the photo looks like it was painted with some type of enamal. I don't know about Cerrakote as I have no experience with it. I wouldn't waste my time with duracoat.
Yes, Aluminum can be refinished. We regularly refinish Aluminum parts with our TG-1 finish with no problems. However, it must be abrasive blasted as part of the refinish job to remove the old finish, scale, flaking finish, etc. Abrasive blasting Aluminum has to be done by somebody that has experience with it. If they use silica sand, it's very easy to ruin the part. (Frame, etc) Silica sand will "eat" Aluminum. Even freindly abrasives can damage it if it's shot at to high of a pressure or aimed at one spot for to long. The idea is to remove all paints and matte the surface, not cause scallops.
It's a good idea to use some type of chemical Anodizing procedure on it before it's coated. We use Alodine. Depending on who you talk to, it's not quite as hard as "normal" Anodizing or it's harder. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
Yes, Aluminum can be refinished. We regularly refinish Aluminum parts with our TG-1 finish with no problems. However, it must be abrasive blasted as part of the refinish job to remove the old finish, scale, flaking finish, etc. Abrasive blasting Aluminum has to be done by somebody that has experience with it. If they use silica sand, it's very easy to ruin the part. (Frame, etc) Silica sand will "eat" Aluminum. Even freindly abrasives can damage it if it's shot at to high of a pressure or aimed at one spot for to long. The idea is to remove all paints and matte the surface, not cause scallops.
It's a good idea to use some type of chemical Anodizing procedure on it before it's coated. We use Alodine. Depending on who you talk to, it's not quite as hard as "normal" Anodizing or it's harder. Keep yer powder dry, Mac.
Tuff-Gun Finishes. The Name Says It All.
Mac's Shootin' Irons
http://www.shootiniron.com
"Contact Brownells. They have several different products for aluminum. None are as durable as Ceracote as mentioned earlier but more DIY friendly"
Go to Brownells and get thier bake on finish in a spray can, spray it and bake it and your done. No need for a airbrush for one gun. Ceracote is not that hard if you have a airbrush.
Go to Brownells and get thier bake on finish in a spray can, spray it and bake it and your done. No need for a airbrush for one gun. Ceracote is not that hard if you have a airbrush.
I have used Alumahyde. Maybe there is a secret I don't know, but it seemed to be sort of a "cold blue" for aluminum alloy and was not at all durable, rubbing off easily. I suspect that like cold blue it might work to cover a scratch or ding, but not for anything like a large surface.
Jim
Jim