Refinishing a Mosin
- Thread starter essohbe
- Start date
I got a junked one for free and put it back together, and this included refinishing the stock. First things first: Its not something rare and un-replacable is it? I know the idea that "its a mosin and they are 80 bucks" floats around but it might be good to make sure. Assuming you gone one for free that is missing a lot of stuff or looks like the dog has chewed on it, the best thing for stripping a solid wood stock for me was oven cleaner. Stripped the wood down bare in minutes. The longest and hardest part was letting it dry back out. I did some searching and found a website on using tung oil to refinish gun stocks (i think its called flowers of the tung http://www.surplusrifle.com/shooting/tungoil/pdf/tungoil.pdf) and followed that. Came out very nice. I didn't quite qet the color i wanted on the first try, so i'd recommend testing out some stains on scrap wood to get the best color. If i were to do it again, i'd use the Sedona Red stain (nice red tint).
I think it took me about 2 weeks from start to finish, working on and off. Lots of drying time between coats.
I think it took me about 2 weeks from start to finish, working on and off. Lots of drying time between coats.
Swampghost
New member
As said, original cond. is best value and I wouldn't mess with it.
If you're determined to refinish, it's a process if you want decent results. I'm a woodworker that specializes in fine cabinetry and yacht finishes among other things.
If you're determined to refinish, it's a process if you want decent results. I'm a woodworker that specializes in fine cabinetry and yacht finishes among other things.
MagnumWill
New member
It all depends on what you want to do. Sure, you may "wreck" the value of the stock (that's probably mismatched anyway) but keep in mind that its still a 90 dollar rifle. Do what you want with it- I refinished my M44 stock twice. I stripped off the shellac with (get this) a razor blade. It flew right off, and I stained it. Didn't like it, so I sanded it down to the wood underneath (which looks great) and I just put the oil coat on it, and I love it. Here, I'll put a pic of it up. The Mosin PU sniper has the original shellac on it. The Tula hex has a laminate stock on it that was beautiful to begin with when I got it.
I recommend a commercial stripper, like Strip-eze. Denatured alcohol takes too long and the result is the same. I even used EZ Off oven cleaner on one and it worked great.
After the shellac was stripped, I washed the stock down with a solution of dishwasher powder and water. Then I rinsed it well and let the stock dry out for two weeks in a 50% humidity environment (my gun room where I keep a dehumidifier). Then, I set about refinishing the stock. I sanded lightly, and then used a 50-50 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits for the first coat. Subsequent coats were 75% tung. The result was a durable finish that looked like new shellac.
If you use a stain, be sure to use an oil based stain, as water based stains are hard to keep from blotching.
After the shellac was stripped, I washed the stock down with a solution of dishwasher powder and water. Then I rinsed it well and let the stock dry out for two weeks in a 50% humidity environment (my gun room where I keep a dehumidifier). Then, I set about refinishing the stock. I sanded lightly, and then used a 50-50 mix of tung oil and mineral spirits for the first coat. Subsequent coats were 75% tung. The result was a durable finish that looked like new shellac.
If you use a stain, be sure to use an oil based stain, as water based stains are hard to keep from blotching.