georgiaboy56
Inactive
can anyone give me some information on how to do parkerizing I have an old rem700 that needs either new blueing or other option is parkerize can this be done at home what is the process any help would be appreciated thanks GH
refinish
- Thread starter georgiaboy56
- Start date
Go to Brownells site and look through the articles on the Tech Bench.
Basically, for small parts, it's not too hard to do yourself. For items like the barrel of a rifle, having a bigger tank is required.
It's usually not that expensive - if you have one rifle to do, it's worth paying a gunsmith to take it apart, park it, and put it back together.
Make sure to go over what oil/wax you want applied over the coating.
-tINY
georgiaboy56
Inactive
thanks
thanks for your help I have found a few web sites with information the biggest problem is the glass beader the rest seems simple Thanks again GH
thanks for your help I have found a few web sites with information the biggest problem is the glass beader the rest seems simple Thanks again GH
Ditto Ruger4570 comment. This is why the threads and shoulder of a Garand barrel are specified to be left in the white. I've parkerized them at home in a stainless tank I had a local shop weld up. I had to machine a PVC block with femal threads, an O-ring to keep the solution from getting past the shoulder, and a vent tube to serve both as a handle and to let expanding air out so it wouldn't pop the muzzle plug out. You don't wan't to parkerize your bore.
How deep the layer gets depends on your prep and the type of parkerizing. An abrasive blast will be a deeper matte and make the layer thicker. Bead blasting will do the least surface disrupting and gives you the thinnest layer, though it is satisfactory for most jobs. The manganese phosphating is darker and thicker and has better lubricity. The zinc is thinner and lighter but harder. Both can be dyed. True military parkerizing is passivated with a hot dip in dilute chromic acid after parkerizing and before the final rinse and treatment with water displacing oil and final pore filling with the permenant sealant. Chromic acid is extremely toxic and not recommended for a home operation.
Nick
How deep the layer gets depends on your prep and the type of parkerizing. An abrasive blast will be a deeper matte and make the layer thicker. Bead blasting will do the least surface disrupting and gives you the thinnest layer, though it is satisfactory for most jobs. The manganese phosphating is darker and thicker and has better lubricity. The zinc is thinner and lighter but harder. Both can be dyed. True military parkerizing is passivated with a hot dip in dilute chromic acid after parkerizing and before the final rinse and treatment with water displacing oil and final pore filling with the permenant sealant. Chromic acid is extremely toxic and not recommended for a home operation.
Nick
georgiaboy56
Inactive
uncle nick
thanks for the info what is a reasonable price for someone to do this job I picked up this rem700 at auction for 250.00 and I dont want to spend to much I touched up the blue and it doesnt look bad maybe Ill just keep it this way thanks GH
thanks for the info what is a reasonable price for someone to do this job I picked up this rem700 at auction for 250.00 and I dont want to spend to much I touched up the blue and it doesnt look bad maybe Ill just keep it this way thanks GH
I'm looking to spend between $75 and $125 on a park job, but I've already torn the rifle(Savage .22) down to just the barrel and receiver and cleaned it up with some phosphoric acid. I wanted to go blue, but the barrel is pitted, so I think a matte finish would look better. Although I'm tempted to go with a can of DuraCote or Krylon.
That price range sounds about right. Brownells survey says $95 to $145, but that includes more pricey parts of the country.
If you know someone who can bead blast the surface for you (plug the bore and chamber with neoprene stoppers - you don't want the beads in there either), and you know someone who sill just degrease it and toss it in their bluing tanks when they are bluing anyway, you will get a flat black looking result without paying for polishing. Also, don't forget to call the manufacturer to see what refinishing costs if they throw it in with other new guns?
Nick
If you know someone who can bead blast the surface for you (plug the bore and chamber with neoprene stoppers - you don't want the beads in there either), and you know someone who sill just degrease it and toss it in their bluing tanks when they are bluing anyway, you will get a flat black looking result without paying for polishing. Also, don't forget to call the manufacturer to see what refinishing costs if they throw it in with other new guns?
Nick
just thought I would show a before/after on an old Savage I cold blued the other day. It was well pitted, but since I did this gun on the cheap, media-blasting was out of the question. Just cleaned her up with steel wool and phosphoric acid, then used Brownel's Oxpho Blue. It came out better than expected, and was easy to apply. The metal just stinks right now, but it looks good for a $40 rifle.
El Paso Joe
New member
Oxpho Blue
Thanks for the pics Hedley. I just got a bottle of it finish the barrel on a Mauser conversion I am doing and wondered if anyone had used it. It looks great.
Thanks for the pics Hedley. I just got a bottle of it finish the barrel on a Mauser conversion I am doing and wondered if anyone had used it. It looks great.