Refinish advice

Glockgreat23

New member
I know Cerakote is the gold standard. And I have several. However, for 1/3 the price I can durakote. I'd like to hear from those who have durakote experience. How is it wearing? Do holster draws mess it up (I'm not a heavy holster wearer). Just curious if the stuff is tough, and if it looks ok.....not like some enamal paint job, for instance. I intend to do it myself, but am pretty handy at that sort of thing
 
Those two posts are both informative and both point to preparation, preparation, preparation, like any painted surface. My son paints car and has the equipment and I am very meticulous in any painting project, so I still want to give it a try. What I learned however is I will experiment with something other than a gun and put many very thin coats on and see how it works. If I don't gain any confidence from that experience then the hell with it. I want a very dark grey frame, and a tungsten colored slide
 
I have "heard" that Duracoat is epoxy paint.
The (factory) finish on my 15yo Hi-Power is black epoxy over Parkerizing, and it looks great.
Lots of military weapons have had painted finishes, and while I'm sure the cheap price is a big factor, paint can be a decent finish, especially if it's a $20-$50 DIY job.
Shipping a gun to a finisher costs $100, so you can refinish your DIY gun a few times if it starts looking ratty.
 
As i indicated in the other post I have used Duracoat in spray cans quite effectively on AR 15 receivers, rails, p mags etc. My Llama Micro Max was butt ugly flat blue over beadblasted finish. I stripped all small parts and left them blue, Duracoated the rest Flat Dark Earth and it looks like a miniature USMC 1911.
Duracoat, after curing a month or more, is a nice smooth and hard finish. Will it chip or scratch? Sure it will but will take a lot of abuse first. Biggest problem is the spray can, once it is activated you must use all the product within a week or so. I sprayed some P mags FDE to match the rifle and i cannot tell the difference from an original Magpul fde mag. An airbrush is the best way to install duracoat with thin coats over super clean surface.
 
Just made a thread about my experience with duracaot. It was terrible but you sound more skilled than me, at those types of jobs.

Besides the fact I did a sub par job, I HATE the feel of the duracoat. It is slippery, glossy, and tacky. Its not done curing yet, but I wouldnt even have a professional put this finish on. I hate it.
 
Yes slippery and tacky. Slippery on on the surface, but the finish itself, is elastic in nature, and tacky, and I feel like it would be peeled off as one would peel off a piece of sticky tack from their wall.
 
I am anything but skilled with Duracoat as this was my first project then in order to empty the can I did a lot more than expected. Sounds like you applied a much too heavy coat because the finish should not be sticky and the machine marks etc. should show through a nice smooth finish very unlike the heavy enamel on FN Hi Powers or CZ 82's.
Call Hought ent. And ask how you can strip the Duracoat and start over. I know blasting with a glass media will strip it. PM an email address and I will send photos of what I did....the only way I know how to do photos.
 
I like Cerakote. I refinished the slide and barrel of my LC9 since I carry it IWB and it can get wet with perspiration during warm weather. I wanted something that would protect it better than having to take it apart every day and wipe it down. I used Sniper Gray air-dry Cerakote, put on with an airbrush. It's been about a year-and-a-half and it's still looking good. I changed out the sights too while I had it apart. I'm not extremely handy, but I can do a good job if I have the right equipment and supplies and take my time. So far, I've been very pleased with it.
 

Attachments

  • Cerakote LC9-01.jpg
    Cerakote LC9-01.jpg
    79.3 KB · Views: 15
  • Cerakote LC9-02.jpg
    Cerakote LC9-02.jpg
    53.6 KB · Views: 11
... preparation, preparation, preparation, like any painted surface...I am very meticulous in any painting project, so I still want to give it a try.
This is THE thing to walk away with in any conversation about any coatings.

I use Gunkote by KG Coatings. I'm not sure where it is in the hierarchy, but I am meticulous about prep, and cleaning. I clean them, only handle them with nitrile gloves, remove all previous paints and coatings, clean them again and paint them in an absolutely clean environment. None of my applications have failed me in any way.

I've even had Krylon spray paint hold up in amazing conditions due to proper prep and priming.
 
Back
Top