Reducing my remington 1100's trigger pull?

L

Lowjack

Inactive
Greetings:
This is my first post on TFL forums after countless hours of reading post after post on an uncountable number of days/nights.
My question is really rather simple (to ask). I have a remington 1100 and would like to lighten the trigger pull somehow. I'd assume this could be accomplished by anyone with enuff knowledge and motivation to do it. :confused:

So how does one do it? On my glock I had to order a 1.5 lb trigger from vanek. I've never seen anyone selling reduced pull remington 1100 triggers.
I was hoping for something simple like replacing the spring or other easy fixes that are an inexpensive means of getting a lighter trigger pull.

I like my 1100 but compaired to my old 870 pump action, the 1100's aftermarket accessories are limited to say the least. With my old 870 the number of ways I could trick it out were limited only by my wallets weight.
Anyways if someone who knows the 1100 in and out could lend a fellow shooter some know-how on this modification I'd be much oblidged.
 
Having the correct trigger-pull weight can make a positive difference in your shooting. As a rule of thumb the trigger-pull weight for a single-trigger shotgun is set at one-half the weight of the gun: e.g., 3.5 lbs. for a 7 lb. gun. The first question to be determined is what is the pull-weight now? This is determined by the use of a pull-gage. Once this is known, it can be reset.

I do not recommend this as a do-it-yourself job if for no other reasons that safety and potential liability exposure (yes, pulls can be set too light!). The best advice I can offer is to seek out the services of a competent gunsmith and have him/her do this job for you.

Good luck, and good shooting!
 
barnes custom gunsmithing

he advertises for remington custom trigger service at $45.00 + $7.00 shipping. said hes been doing it for 20 years and he has good refrences. I was just getting ready to send in my 870 trigger assembly this week to get it done. email him at [ help@bcgunsmithing.com ]. some other smiths I talked to were afraid of the liability and didnt want to do it.
 
Most decent smith's can do this job for around forty clams.

I had one done by ARS for fifty while my gun was in for coating. He did an excellent job.

Mike
 
I'm sorry

My bad. I was under the impression that everyone was into learning their firearms functions that are adjustable and carefully, but only after fully understanding completely, performing said modification when possible.

Maybe I should have posted this in the smithy section of TFL. I am not a licsensed gunsmith, but have yet to run into a modification (aside from changing barrels on an hk94 & ar15) that once complete instructiions were obtained, that I couldnt do myself.

Isnt that 1/2 the enjoyment of firearm ownership? Loving to not only shoot and hit whatever target you aim at, but knowing how to break down the weapon afterwards, or if something should break, clean it, install extras, modify areas for optimum performance, ect ? ? ? ? :mad:

Or am I just in a state of disillusion thinking that after learning what needs adjusting on the 1100's trigger group to accomplish a safe lighter trigger pull, that I need outside assistance in doing the trigger task other than written information clearly describing how its done?? ?? ??

I've been told by some I should look into becoming more involved professionally and gunsmithing always fascinates me into doing all my work myself. But being a native Califoinan I figure, why bother? So I can jump through federal hoops to work on other people Califorina legal post-ban weapons? No thanks. All of my favorite guns are no longer legal to be sold or possessed in Califorina. With a few exceptions. But the moneys not in it for a career change.

Sorry for the ranting on and on. But as my 2nd post I felt it necessary to reveal a tad about the person behind the first posts question and also to disclose the fact that only after feeling 100% completely confident that Remington 1100's trigger pull adjustment could only be safely done by a gunsmith.....I would prefer doing all modifications in house and for the price of having to seek out the information. As opposed to 45$ + tax.

Live to learn not to pay others for what you could learn and do yourself.

Thanks for the link though. It's a start. :confused:
 
Remington uses the same basic trigger mechanism on the 1100, the 1187, the 870, and many rifles.

If all you want is a slightly lighter trigger pull, you can install a lighter tension trigger-sear spring.

Remove the trigger group and look at the top of the trigger and sear. There is a coil spring joining the two.

To replace it, remove the large bushing at the rear of the trigger group.
This will allow the trigger to move rearward and take tension off the spring.

Snap the spring out, and replace with a lighter spring.

Needless to say, be absolutely SURE the trigger is safe.
Auto's are much more sensitive to too-light springs than pumps, and you can have DANGEROUS slam fires, or failures to cock if the spring is to light.
 
I didnt mean to offend you, but I thought $52 was a low cost way. I replaced the spring on my 870 for $8 but that didnt do anything for the trigger creep and I was not satisfied .when you wrote about a 1.5 lb trigger I figured a spring wouldnt do it and something that precise should be done by someone with experience.
 
No personal offense meant, with all due respect :)

An internet board like this is the very LAST place I would seek advice on something potentially as dangerous as mucking with the trigger pull on an autoloader.

Any gunsmith worth his salt will not give free advice, it is how they make their living after all. And amateurs are not the people to ask, you are just asking for problems.

There are gunsmithing books that can explain how to do a trigger job...but they will probably cost more than actually having a reputable smith do a proper job.

Either way, to have the job done safely and correctly you will have to pay someone.


Once again, this is not a personal attack, just some friendly advice.
 
oops!

If anyone should be appologising it's me. I reread my second post and lemme tell you, I didnt at all mean to come across the way it seems I am coming.
I respect all you who've taken the time to reply to this thread and didnt think I was coming across as cocky and defensive as I did. I'm sorry for that.

As for the comment about any good gunsmith wont help any potential customer to do it themself. Agreed. Thats the beauty of forums like this one and so many others that amass countless posts on everything from 22.'s to 50 caliber discussions. And everything in between.

The fact that I was having a little trouble locating any info on the 1100's trigger pull reduction probably was a wording error while searching for it.
Because before I post about a personal problem I usually do extensive searches to see how common it is, and how many different ways are being posted on how it can be dealt with.

As for this one, Dfariswheel , thank you very much. That is exactly what I was looking for.
To: calvin62 & K80Geoff , no offense taken and from now on I'm gonna watch how I reply to those replying to my posts. Because after I reread that second post I'm a little embarrassed. Much respect to you and all you who've even glanced this thread over. Keep up the positive posts. They tend to out shine the negative ones 9 times outta 10.

Peace.
 
there is a reason

The reason most folks won't be able to help is that they don't know. It is unreasonable to want a shotgun pull much lighter than 5lbs. Most come from the factory weighing in at around 7-8 lbs. You aren't usually taking time to carefully get the sights on a bird, which what shotguns do the most. The trigger pull isn't a problem since most people yank the trigger instead of squeezing it. If you want it to be close to 3.5 lbs., most smith's won't mess with it for liability reasons. I would suggest to you if you are using it for deer or turkey to ask for a pull close to 4 lbs. and some, but not all smith's will oblige you. Several maunfacturers will not honor the warranty if the pull is below 7 lbs. If you want to learn how to do it yourself, look at AGI and get one of their armoror's course on the 1100. Just replacing the spring will not always lighten the pull since you haven't adjusted the engagement angles of the trigger and the sear, which is what does alter the pull.
 
Timney made his fortune tuning triggers on 1100's.

Allen Timney Gunsmithing
13524 Edgefield Street
Cerritos, CA 90703

Telephone: 310-865-0181
Fax: 909-877-4713

Clemson
 
actually this 1100

My little 1100 isnt a hunting weapon at all. Against the mainstream opinion of shortening the barrel below 21", this one sits at 14 1/2", and is the first thing in hand when the dogs start barking 'INTRUDER' at 1:00am in the morning.

Extensive effort was put into obtaining permission for a short barrelled shotgun, but moreso into getting it to cycle properly; via gas port modification and drilling. Lets face it, nobody wants their gun to shoot one round and then fail to eject or eject and close out of time making a follow up shot impossible due to the gun closing on an empty chamber.

That makes sense about not wanting a lighter trigger load for hunting purposes. But when the wife has to grab it and defend herself I'd rather her 'YANk' on the trigger not cause the first round to wizz above her target due to excessive trigger pull weight.

14 1/2's usually wipe out anything within danger range no matter what the pull weight is, however, being prone to tinkering until I'm bored or satisfied, I'll continue to keep this interest as stictly informational. Until a time where I know that a spring swap is the safest and best means of accomplishing a lighter pull.

Hell, I got other guns to pay attention to and upgrade. Just got my lasermax sight for this little Glock M-26 I like so much. But that modification took about 2 minutes. And damnit! why doesnt this damn thing adjust past dead center at 25 yars? live and learn. :confused:
 
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