Redding die set for .30 Carbine

J

jski

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I decided to add an extra .30 Carbine die set to my bench. That's after my RCBS re-sizing broke, the pin snapped for some reason unbeknownst to me.

It appears that only Lee and RCBS offer carbide re-sizing dies for the .30 Carbine. So I thought about a Redding die set. But I'm leary steel v. carbide re-sizing dies. Having to lube each and every case sounds painful.

Is there ANY reason to prefer steel to carbide?

Is there any method less problematic that lube pads?

Is it true that if you fail to lube a case, it can easily get lodged in the die, almost impossible to extract?
 
I did notice this on Dillon's website (for the .30 Carbine):
Sizing/Depriming Die

The sizing/depriming die is full-length, to minimum tolerances, sizing cases down to function in semi- and full-automatic firearms. This is a carbide size/deprime die, however it is still necessary to lubricate the cases prior to resizing. The increased scratch resistance and die longevity of carbide make it a superior choice over a conventional steel die. In the event of a stuck case, the design of the depriming assembly allows it to function as a stuck case remover.
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Carbide dies are great. No lube required... On the other hand RCBS has the best guaranty in the business. Call them and they'll replace the broken part...

Tony
 
I have the Lee carbide die and have never lubed the brass. Many people firmly believe the brass need to be lubed regardless. Maybe that's the steel die has its market.

-TL

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Lube for resizing cases... Lots of folk have lots of opinions on this topic. Here's three threads to peruse.

https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588924&highlight=lube
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=588597&highlight=lube
https://thefiringline.com/forums/showthread.php?t=589567

Getting a case stuck in a die is VERY frustrating. In addition to properly lubing a case having a 'stuck case remover' actually on hand on your reloading bench can prevent this. ;)

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/504741/rcbs-stuck-case-remover
 
Have a 30 carbine carbide die that needs cases lubed. Lee 30 carbine dies may not be as tight, their lever calibers aren't. Am guessing the dimensions on some 30 carbine dies are tight, almost like using a sb die.

The old 30 carbines have a lot looser chamber dimensions than the Ruger Blackhawks.

When speaking of certain caliber, it may be very difficult to generalize.
 
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Is there ANY reason to prefer steel to carbide?
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Only that the price of a steel .30 Carbine die set is cheaper than carbide. But, cheapler than-from-Lee carbide dies can be found at a more reasonable price on Ebay and cheaper than a steel Redding die set: http://www.ebay.com/itm/90626-LEE-CARBIDE-3-DIE-SET-30-M-1-CARBINE-/231484745307?epid=1201711760&hash=item35e590e65b:g:sa8AAOSw32lY2dF9

Is there any method less problematic that lube pads?
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Yes. Stand the empty cases in a loading block and spray them with a case lube like Hornady One Shot.

Is it true that if you fail to lube a case, it can easily get lodged in the die, almost impossible to extract?
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Not impossible. There are commercial stuck case removers and home methods (use "search" to find about home methods), that will remove the stuck case. The case will be ruined (primer pocket drilled and tapped) but a stuck case is not the end of the world. If you lube the cases, I would not lose any sleep over the worry of getting a dreaded "stuck case". I have not experienced a problem as of yet with the .30 Carbine in my handloading endeavors. I use a Lee carbide die set and One Shot lube.
 
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You can purchase a few backup decapping rods and keep them on hand so you don't have down time. I keep a spare for all my RCBS dies. They are fairly inexpensive.
 
The .30carbine is in fact a significantly tapered cartridge. The Dillon die is full length. When a round is crammed into that die, even if it is diamond honed to perfection, the friction will require enormous power to break. You can't use a steel .223 die unlubed or it will stick. It is no different from a full length carbide die.
 
I have Lee carbide die. It is written on the box "no lube required". Looking into the die, there is a carbide insert, 0.75” long, extending from the die mouth to the interior. 30 carbine brass has body length of 1.15", measured from in front of extraction groove to case mouth. The die is not quite "full length" in normal sense, as the insert is shorter than the brass.

The configuration is similar to a carbide die for 40 s&w. No lube is indeed required. Never have used any, and never have had any stuck case.

With the carbide insert shorter than the brass, the sized casing cannot possibly have full taper. From the mouth to 0.4” down is straight, then tapered down to the extraction groove.

I have seen people swearing up and down claiming lube or stuck. I simply don't get it.

-TL

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Many points.
Chances are RCBS may well send you a couple of pins so you may end up with a spare.
I have Redding regular dies for 30 carbine (they always include an extra pin) and do as dahermit says, spray with One Shot. I think I would still do that even with carbide dies.
Lube spray is great stuff, too little and you end up with a stuck shell. Too much spray can be a problem with bottle neck cases (dented shoulders) but you should be okay with a 30 carbine. You can feel the difference when using spray so it obviously helps. Just throw them back in your tumbler to clean off the goo and you're good to go.
 
As someone already observed, the .30 M1 Carbine case is tapered, not straight wall. Carbide sizers are worth the money, but you still need SOME lube. My practice is to size a lubed case, then three or four unlubed cases, then another lubed case, and so forth. So far (and I've been doing this for far longer than I'm will to admit) not one stuck case.
 
I also have RCBS dies , the company is great . l had a stuck case once , now if I feel a little resistance ,I lower the ram add a little more lube , makes a big difference. I use the standard die for sizing , Redding competition for seating 308 cal.
 
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