recoil guide rods

K

KelTeKee

New member
Hey folks, what's the deal on these tungsten material guide rod? Is the heavier weight keep the nose down? Also, has anyone tried those mercury filled recoil reducer like harts recoil reducer? Thanks folks...
 
The heavier weight of tungsten help control muzzle flip to a point. I have not try a mercury fill guide rod, I drill my guide rods to capture the recoil spring because of my reverse plug, so I can not use mercury guide rod.
 
Char923--Could you explain where you drill the guide rod and what a reverse plug is. What pistol are you referring to. Sounds like a 1911 variant...Thanks
 
You would use a reverse plug when useing a bull barrel in your gun, a bull barrel eliminate the barrel bushing, you would drill the guide rod about 1 1/2" from the front end, so you can install a cross pin, after installing the pin,the guide rod and reverse plug will come out the back side of the slide. The guns that use this setup are mostly custom pistol. My gun are STI and Caspian.
go to http://www.edbrown.com
and look under guide rod and you will see the diff.

[This message has been edited by char923 (edited June 28, 2000).]
 
I have used the Harts rod on several Glocks and they do reduce perceived recoil by the use of several steel balls and mercury inside the rod.
 
The Harrts do reduce muzzle flip. They work better in longer barrelled guns and in larger calibers. So a Harrts for a 1911 Govt .45 would be more effective than one for a Glock 19 9mm. I prefer the Sprinco which slows down the slide in smaller caliber pistols or pistols with alloy frames. The recoil is the same, but spread out over a longer time giving the illusion of reducing the recoil.
 
I'ld avoid mercury filled items.
Parts - any part - can break. Mercury is a very nasty substance that you dont want to have to clean up.
That and I dont think those trick items really help you that much to make them worth while. You want weight? Sling a tactical light under the gun. Adds the weight and has a practicle use.
 
I agree with George. I have used the Haart's and they do work. But every doodad that you add to your firearm is one more problem waiting to happen. The 1911 was designed to function without such a feature, so shoot it that way. If you practice enough, recoil is not a problem.
 
Ah great info. I was just curious about the mercury deal. I have a sprinco on my p229, it works but that company makes OK stuff. I think their tools are a bit dull. it was real hard to put something like that in a sig. I am looking for an alternative for my p220. The tungsten thing was more for my p226 since the recoil is already very light even with +p+.

char923--I guess my para p10 is what you're describing. I really hate the way the p10 goes back together. The guide rod has this sheetmetal thing scraping along the dust cover as I put the pistol back together. Is this the way it's supposed to be or is just a Canadian thing? Love the pistol in general when it doesn't jam!!!) but some of the mechanism are FUNKY. All I know is my sigs were worth the cost...the para however, even at $450 used(100rd)is becoming harder and harder to keep in the lineup.

Thanks everyone for the advice, it's much appreciated since I am a two year novice at this stuff.
 
many moons ago I bought the Haarts for a Sig 220- never could tell it did anything useful for $70. Maybe the slide was not long enough?

The tungsten rods have worked very nice for me in several 1911 style pistols.

My Kimber Compact Aluminum has the reverse plug. Its not a big deal to disassemble/reassemble as long as you have a paper clip or similar handy...
 
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