recoil guide rod.....plastic or metal
- Thread starter b.thomas
- Start date
Independent George
New member
As I understand it, the difference is mostly a matter of aesthetics.
In theory, the added weight of a steel rod helps decrease muzzle flip slightly, while the softer polymer guide rods are add a little life to polymer and aluminum framed pistols.
In practice, neither really seems to make much difference one way or another.
In theory, the added weight of a steel rod helps decrease muzzle flip slightly, while the softer polymer guide rods are add a little life to polymer and aluminum framed pistols.
In practice, neither really seems to make much difference one way or another.
Bill DeShivs
New member
It really depends on what the manufacturer designed it for.
Kreyzhorse
New member
Doesn't matter. I stick with whatever the gun was originally designed for.
lee n. field
New member
I've had them both ways, and have concluded that it just doesn't matter. I wouldn't bother to change one out.
g.willikers
New member
The amount of flexibility of the guide rod can very well be an essential part of the design.
madcratebuilder
New member
Early Beretta 92xx had steel rods, later models are poly, both shoot the same. I change out the poly rod to steel on the first spring change, 3k rounds +/-, but I'm a curmudgeon.
I have heard that aftermarket steel rods for the Walther P99 and PPQ break and can cause malfunctions as well. I have seen steel rods in glocks cause failure to completely return to battery.
The design for the most part depends upon some flexibility in the recoil mechanism. This is why I don't recommend steel rods unless it has been thoroughly tested, or your gun came from the factory with a steel rod. When I go to replace the recoil unit in my PPQ in the future I will opt for a factory polymer Walther option
The design for the most part depends upon some flexibility in the recoil mechanism. This is why I don't recommend steel rods unless it has been thoroughly tested, or your gun came from the factory with a steel rod. When I go to replace the recoil unit in my PPQ in the future I will opt for a factory polymer Walther option
4040peters
New member
I have heard arguments that polymer guide rods will flex and return to shape if a pistol is dropped with the slide open and that metal guide rods will bend and cause malfunctions. I imagine it has to be a fairly substantial drop for a guide rod to bend to the point on malfunction, not just from hip or shoulder height.
Most change from polymer to steel so that the exposed tip at the muzzle shows it. Aesthetics and a social statement.
Plenty of folks run MIM parts and don't care, but polymer is associated with a time when Styrene was in a lot of inexpensive products and it gained a reputation for being fragile in comparison to the steel sheet product it replaced.
It was a time of turnover in American holiday toys which left an indelible memory in the minds of those who later became the old shooting curmudgeons who despised "Tupperware," another iconic reference. It's still referenced by some in the knife world, a "heavy" knife is given more "quality" points than a lighter one using composites. I would take a G10 and titantium framelock over a cheap brass lockback any day.
I bought a polymer framed pocket gun and frankly don't even know what the rod is. I accept the new "paradigm" in handgun construction, others can't because they let the past override what they could learn about what's available today.
As for changing the rod, what usually accompanies it is a new recoil spring which has far more influence over the cyclic operation. Most don't try the spring first to see if the rod even needs to be changed, yet the rod gets the blame most of the time.
Plenty of folks run MIM parts and don't care, but polymer is associated with a time when Styrene was in a lot of inexpensive products and it gained a reputation for being fragile in comparison to the steel sheet product it replaced.
It was a time of turnover in American holiday toys which left an indelible memory in the minds of those who later became the old shooting curmudgeons who despised "Tupperware," another iconic reference. It's still referenced by some in the knife world, a "heavy" knife is given more "quality" points than a lighter one using composites. I would take a G10 and titantium framelock over a cheap brass lockback any day.
I bought a polymer framed pocket gun and frankly don't even know what the rod is. I accept the new "paradigm" in handgun construction, others can't because they let the past override what they could learn about what's available today.
As for changing the rod, what usually accompanies it is a new recoil spring which has far more influence over the cyclic operation. Most don't try the spring first to see if the rod even needs to be changed, yet the rod gets the blame most of the time.
runningbear
New member
I have two Walters a PPQ&P99 both have non metal guide rods and non metal spring retaining end caps.
The non metal end caps have been known to fail.
I have replaced them both with metal recoil spring Assy.s.
The non metal end caps have been known to fail.
I have replaced them both with metal recoil spring Assy.s.
For a Glock, the SS recoil assembly is to add weight to the gun and put a lower weight spring in, typically 13 lb, to reduce recoil for competition. Otherwise these is no benefit. My 2 pin G17 just turned over 180,000 and I have only put in 5 recoil springs in that time frame. For carry, I run a 20 lb spring in the G31's with a SS recoil assembly only because the OEM assembly won't retain a 20 lb, pops the tip off.
g.willikers
New member
Do recoil springs really need to be changed very often?
And consistent with my findings, too.
That's one of the most interesting things in this thread.
And consistent with my findings, too.