Rebluing Mosin Nagant Barrel & Receiver

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boostedtt91

New member
I am putting one of my Mosin Nagants into a ATI stock and having a new black stock and the old faded mosin barrel action looks horrible. What would be the best way to reblue the barrel and receiver to get a factory new look.
 
The best way is to take/ship it to a gun shop that does reblueing. Expect to pay about $150 though, so its your call as to how bad you want it.

The next best way is to get some cold blue for less than $10 and see if thats good enough. If you do it right it looks pretty good and as long as it isn't somewhere where you grab it a lot, it lasts a decent amount of time, but not as good as hot bluing.
 
Have it done by a shop. When it's done right, it looks fantastic, well worth it on the Mosins. While you're at it, have the bolt turned down, butterknifed, and polished.
 
A lot of the cost is in prep. If you're going for the utility rifle look instead of the Colt Python finish, my local shop charges me $75 for bead blasting and a mat blue finish.
 
For all the trouble and cost you're going to go through anyway, just buy an un-issued MN. :rolleyes:

As many of the posters will tell you, part of the "charm" of an old milsurp is the history behind the dings, dents, and scratches. (I don't subscribe to that myself, since I consider most dings, dents, and scratches to be from drunk and sloppy arsenal handling.)
 
For all the trouble and cost you're going to go through anyway, just buy an un-issued MN.
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Bingo!!! I just don't understand dumping hundreds of dollars into a < $100 rifle!
Especially with the low cost of some really good entry level sporting rifles chambered in calibers that are more readily available in a variety of good loads.
 
Scimmia, what's slow rust blueing? I'm looking at redoing a frame on a Pietta that is casehardened but starting to fade. The gun is over 20 years old and the casehardening was light to start out with. Now, the 'grey' is starting to show through.
 
Slow rust bluing is an old process where you let the exposed surface rust, usually by applying an acid to make it rust nice and evenly. After there's a nice even coat of rust, you boil the part, then scrub off the excess with a very fine wire brush or very fine steel wool. Repeat this process 5-7 times and you get a nice, blued finish. Like any bluing, metal prep is key.

Overall, it's not hard, but is pretty time consuming. Midway has a video showing the basic process: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VPD3GWqk-yE
 
i just want something cheap that will make it look one solid color without all the faded spots and everything. Yes you are right, there is no point spending $100 to have it reblued when i could just go by another with a good finish for the same price.
Would any of those $10 bluing kits work?
 
Quote:
For all the trouble and cost you're going to go through anyway, just buy an un-issued MN.
Bingo!!! I just don't understand dumping hundreds of dollars into a < $100 rifle!
Especially with the low cost of some really good entry level sporting rifles chambered in calibers that are more readily available in a variety of good loads.
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What like 8.X56R? Maybe 6.5mm? What other rifles you going to find that are cheap enough to buy spam cans of 440 rounds of surplus ammo at less than $90 a can?
 
i dont want to buy another one,im not spending $125 just to have a shiny barrel... Can someone give me info about the bluing kits they sell for like $10? Which one would work best for this application
 
What like 8.X56R? Maybe 6.5mm? What other rifles you going to find that are cheap enough to buy spam cans of 440 rounds of surplus ammo at less than $90 a can?
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What does that have to do with this statement -
For all the trouble and cost you're going to go through anyway, just buy an un-issued MN.
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or this statement -
Bingo!!! I just don't understand dumping hundreds of dollars into a < $100 rifle!
Click to expand...

:rolleyes:
 
None of the bluing kits for $10 will work for the application. Those kits are for fixing minor damage, not bluing a whole gun (unless you want it to look like done by a 5 year old with crayons).
 
you guys just saved me $10, as I was gonna try that on my 1860. The casehardening is fading and I was about to try a cold blue kit on the frame. From what you guys are saying, it doesn't work. 'm going to try the slow rust process described by Scimmia instead. I need a project anyway.
 
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None of the bluing kits for $10 will work for the application. Those kits are for fixing minor damage, not bluing a whole gun (unless you want it to look like done by a 5 year old with crayons).
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what do you suggest? I dont want to sink a ton of money into it. If its gonna cost that much, i might just say screw it and put my nice hex receiver one on the stock instead
 
I blued and entire barrel with the $10 blue casey gun blue or whatever. It works fine, just read the instructions and follow them. If you do what most people do and just put it on a paper towel and rub it on then yes, it looks like a 5 year old did it. If you take your time and do it correctly like the instructions say, you can actually get very good results. The barrel I did was a 36 inch black powder barrel from a kit and it really did turn out nice. It wasn't a professional blue job, but considering it only took about an hour and a half it was very good. Just buy the $10 gun blue and have fun with it. If you don't like it, it was only $10 and you leaned something.
 
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