ReBlueing

Death from Afar

New member
Can I have a recommendation for an off the shelf reblueing product, or is it better to go and take the barrel to the Gunsmith and get it done properly??
 
It depends on what you're bluing.

For small parts I like to use Brownell's Oxpho blue. Degrease the part well, drop it into a pot of boiling distilled water for a couple minutes, then quickly immerse in a glass beaker filled with Oxpho. Wait a minute then pull the part out and gently buff with 0000 steel wool. If the blue isn't dark enough, repeat the process until you are satisfied. Afterwards, coat with a good quality gun oil.
 
I use G96 Solid Gun Blue creme for touch-up. Works fine, not messy. Probably cost you about US$10 (if the Australian price is anything to go by.) If there is a lot of corrosion it might pay to rub the area down with fine emery paper.
It's certainly worth a try because a professional Re-Blue can be costly.
You say the gun is an Anschutz, some of these are high quality guns, especially the target models - if it is an expensive one and you are aiming for a quality restoration maybe it would be worth getting a quote. Make sure you see some of the guy's work before you give it to him. This is a highly skilled job and there are cowboys out there.
BTW - Kia Ora Mate.
 
I've cold blued dozens of firearms over the years, and wound up refinishing four rifles and three handguns in 2004 alone. I've hit just about every cold-blue product out there, and tried all sorts of application methodologies. What has worked best has been:

Prep the metal via wire-brushing and lightly sanding it with 400-grit sandpaper. BE SURE TO SAND AND BRUSH IN ONE DIRECTION. I do NOT get anal about chemically removing all of the old bluing, but a even blue tone does seem to come out best if the metal is as white as possible. Clean the metal with non-chlorinated brake cleaner and then with rubbing alchohol, and handle only with a rag from this point forward. Start with PermaBlue paste, applied with 0000 steel wool. I do NOT rinse it off with water - I just wipe it off after about a minute or so. I do about four applications. Don't rub too hard with the steel wool or you'll wind up with an uneven tone - you're just trying to very lightly buff the surface such that the cold bluing compound can 'work in'. You'll find that you'll frequently need to add new paste to the steel wool.

I follow that up with several applications of Oxpho paste, usually applied with a cotten rag instead of steel wool. Wipe clean (I like to hit it with non-chlorinated brake cleaner again to remove any steel wool fibers) and oil it. I have used most oils ranging from Molbil-1 to CLP; it doesn't seem to matter much what you use at first so long as you get the oil on it. Right now, I'm using an aerosol can of marine-grade lithium grease - I spray it on, rub it in, and heat it into the pores.

This whole process takes me about 2 hours for a long gun, but it seems to hold up well in the field and certainly is a bit handier than spending $100 and waiting eight weeks for my friendly local gunsmith (who really is a good guy) to hot-blue it.
 
Thanks for the tips. Its a REALLY nice rifle, and belonged to my dad, and even has the original owners manual. I reckon that rifle would have killed 30,000 rabbits in its time. I will see what products are valible and take it from there.

BH_ Kia ora to you too mate, what a pathetic cricket series!!!
 
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