Rebarrel 1903a3

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I have a nice 1903a3 that has a terrible bore. I have ordered a g.i. short chambered barrel. I would like to know somewhere to get the barrel fitted and finnish reamed. I live in northeast Ohio. I would like to send to a business because of the laws. Thanks for any information.
 
This is just my experience and I can't say this is common. I've installed two new GI replacement barrels on 03A3 actions and both headspaced close enough when "clocked" to the sight vertical position(gotta be this way for the extractor cutout to be right). Neither required any chamber reaming.
 
I'll just wait

I have a friend that told me he could put the barrel on and time it but not ream to fit head space. I think I will have him do this and hope that it doesn't need head space reaming.
 
I find it hard to believe there are no gunsmiths in Northeast Ohio. Check with local gun shops and the telephone book or use an on-line search.

Replacing a barrel is a pretty simple job especially as you are retaining the caliber. A GI '03A3 barrel should have the draw line to line it up with the receiver draw line.

Jim
 
I have a nice 1903a3 that has a terrible bore. I have ordered a g.i. short chambered barrel.

A short chambered, coned face barrel with no extractor cut. I believe it is safe to assume the new barrel will not have sights. Then there is that part about any barrel will fit any 03 or 03A3; fantastic, simply fantastic.

F. Guffey
 
Contact the CMP...I bet they can put you in touch with a smith near Camp Perry.
Maybe a call to north store.
 
I am not sure what "GI" barrel is involved. But the surplus GI replacement barrels we used had the fixed sight bases installed and the extractor cut already made. In barrel manufacture for that rifle, they threaded on a gauge to make the "draw line" on the barrel, then used it as a reference point for installing the sight bases and making the extractor cut. So everything lined up just fine when the draw lines were brought together.

Jim
 
"I find it hard to believe there are no gunsmiths in Northeast Ohio. "
I can recommend I.T.& D. Custom Guns in Minerva OH. Not NE but more east central IIRC.

"I am not sure what "GI" barrel is involved. But the surplus GI replacement barrels we used had the fixed sight bases installed and the extractor cut already made. In barrel manufacture for that rifle, they threaded on a gauge to make the "draw line" on the barrel, then used it as a reference point for installing the sight bases and making the extractor cut. So everything lined up just fine when the draw lines were brought together.

Jim"

That's the way mine worked. I think it was to facilitate refurbs to get damaged rifles back in action???? or maybe just to speed manufacturing production.
 
Sounds great; in our little small isolated world we remove the bolt before screwing the barrel into the receiver. After screwing the barrel into the receiver we check the alignment of the ‘draw to stamped hash marks’. If the stamped marks do not align we know the bolt extractor has no place to go. And then: we use a feeler gage to determine how much the barrel has to be set back. We never want to see the draw line pass the index.

I understand; to some life just does not seem fair. To me finding a mail order 03 barrel that fit a receiver would be the exception. Then there is that thing about getting the barrel closer to the receiver by increasing the torque. I am told Eddystone used ‘steam powdered draw to the line’ machines. And I wonder how much closer did the parts get because they were using more powder?

F. Guffey
 
I don't know how anyone could install a barrel on an '03 without at least opening and retracting the bolt! On a 98 Mauser perhaps, but on an '03??

The use of draw lines made barrel replacement in the field easier, but its main purpose was to allow the barrel to have the sight bases installed and the extractor cut made in barrel manufacture, whether the barrel was destined for a new rifle or for use as a replacement barrel.

The 98 Mauser, since its extractor did not fit into the barrel, could just be screwed in and torqued down, then the sights installed and the final headspacing done.

(FWIW,, the system used at Springfield was also used on another gun which had to have an extractor cut made before the barrel was installed - the Luger. Quite a few Luger "experts" have come up with fanciful explanations as to how those draw lines were used, usually involving barrel removal and replacement, sometimes more than once!)

Jim
 
James K I don't know how anyone could install a barrel on an '03 without at least opening and retracting the bolt!


I only know smiths that understand if the stamp/draw line lines up the extractor lines up with the extractor cut. They all understand when the draw line does not align the extractor cut does not align with the extractor cut in the receiver. None of them have to attempt installing the bolt with the extractor because they all understand the bolt will not close.

And then I have bolts none of them have ever seen. If barrels were as interchangeable as some would lead others to believe the bolt no one has ever seen would not have been necessary.

F. Guffey
 
I have ordered a g.i. short chambered barrel.

I have a friend that told me he could put the barrel on and time it but not ream to fit head space. I think I will have him do this and hope that it doesn't need head space reaming.

Ummm...
By definition, a short-chambered barrel WILL require reaming to depth needed.
That's why they call them "short chambered" :rolleyes:
 
Ummm...
By definition, a short-chambered barrel WILL require reaming to depth needed.
That's why they call them "short chambered"

Yes I agree; and then it turned in to something that is so easy the answers start with: “All you have do is…”



And then; there is the problem of deterring how short. And that problem is compounded when the purchaser of the short chambered barrel screws the replacement barrel into the receiver and discovers the draw line does not align.

Again, this stuff does not lock me up, I start with a feeler gage; I know I could use fractional turns measured in degrees but when verifying I use a feeler gage. So? I skip the wild guestmates and go straight to verifying. And then? I never want to forget the ‘crush’/interference fit.

I purchased a barrel from Midway, they claimed the barrel was short chambered. I measured the chamber for shortness; the chamber was .225” short. They wanted to know why I was not happy. I ask them how many chambers a finish reamer will finish; they claimed 30 +/- a few. Finally they claimed a short chamber should be expected to be .010” + a few. I suggest they divide .015 in to .225”. I know there are roughing reamers, I have a few. But when I am told I am getting a short chambered barrel I want to know how short.

I would be happy with the answer; “I do not know”.

F. Guffey
 
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