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Reassembly of Sako Bolt---HELP!
- Thread starter ptblank
- Start date
It has been a while since I have had one apart, but see if this might work.
First, I assume you have the firing pin, bolt sleeve and cocking piece all disassembled. If so, that was your first mistake, as it is not a good idea to mess with the factory setting for firing pin protrusion.
Let's see if we can get things back together. Put the firing pin spring down over the rear of the firing pin, so the front of the spring rests on the flange.
Now, set the front end of the firing pin on a wood surface or into a hole in the bench. Put the bolt sleeve down on top of the spring and compress the spring enough to begin to thread the cocking piece onto the rear end of the firing pin (the front "finger" goes to the front, so it is not easy to get enough compression). Thread the cocking piece down until the slotted end of the firing pin "looks right" at the rear of the cocking piece. Do not insert the lock screw yet.
With the parts together, clamp the bottom of the cocking piece into a vise. If you don't have a vise, pad the jaws of lock pliers with small pieces of copper. With the cocking piece firmly held, pull forward on the bolt sleeve until a gap opens between the front of the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt sleeve. Insert a penny or (preferably) a "U" shaped piece of copper or aluminum into that gap.
Now, you should be able to insert the bolt sleeve into the bolt and turn it to lock (there is only one lug, not the buttress threads like on the Mauser).
Again grasp the bottom of the cocking piece, draw it back and allow the penny (or the "U") to drop free. Release it gently.
Now uncock the bolt sleeve so the cocking piece rests in the cocking cam cut. Look at the firing pin protrusion at the bolt face. If you have no protrusion gauge, protrusion should be close to the thickness of a penny (.06").
Adjust protrusion as necessary by using a screwdriver to turn the slot in the back of the firing pin (in the center of the cocking piece). Once you have it right, remove the bolt from the action, and insert the set screw in the bottom of the cocking piece. By feel, turn the firing pin one way or another until you can make sure the screw seats in one of the slots (there are 3) in the firing pin, and tighten it up. Do not tighten it without making sure it is in a slot.
Now insert the bolt in the action and make sure it cocks and works OK. If you can, pull the bullet and dump the powder from a case and check to make sure the rifle will fire the primer. (This can be loud, so don't do it in an apartment house or dorm room.) If all looks and works OK, try the rifle on a range.
The last step is easy. Take a pencil or a ball pen and make a note to yourself. Do not disassemble a Sako bolt!
Jim
First, I assume you have the firing pin, bolt sleeve and cocking piece all disassembled. If so, that was your first mistake, as it is not a good idea to mess with the factory setting for firing pin protrusion.
Let's see if we can get things back together. Put the firing pin spring down over the rear of the firing pin, so the front of the spring rests on the flange.
Now, set the front end of the firing pin on a wood surface or into a hole in the bench. Put the bolt sleeve down on top of the spring and compress the spring enough to begin to thread the cocking piece onto the rear end of the firing pin (the front "finger" goes to the front, so it is not easy to get enough compression). Thread the cocking piece down until the slotted end of the firing pin "looks right" at the rear of the cocking piece. Do not insert the lock screw yet.
With the parts together, clamp the bottom of the cocking piece into a vise. If you don't have a vise, pad the jaws of lock pliers with small pieces of copper. With the cocking piece firmly held, pull forward on the bolt sleeve until a gap opens between the front of the cocking piece and the rear of the bolt sleeve. Insert a penny or (preferably) a "U" shaped piece of copper or aluminum into that gap.
Now, you should be able to insert the bolt sleeve into the bolt and turn it to lock (there is only one lug, not the buttress threads like on the Mauser).
Again grasp the bottom of the cocking piece, draw it back and allow the penny (or the "U") to drop free. Release it gently.
Now uncock the bolt sleeve so the cocking piece rests in the cocking cam cut. Look at the firing pin protrusion at the bolt face. If you have no protrusion gauge, protrusion should be close to the thickness of a penny (.06").
Adjust protrusion as necessary by using a screwdriver to turn the slot in the back of the firing pin (in the center of the cocking piece). Once you have it right, remove the bolt from the action, and insert the set screw in the bottom of the cocking piece. By feel, turn the firing pin one way or another until you can make sure the screw seats in one of the slots (there are 3) in the firing pin, and tighten it up. Do not tighten it without making sure it is in a slot.
Now insert the bolt in the action and make sure it cocks and works OK. If you can, pull the bullet and dump the powder from a case and check to make sure the rifle will fire the primer. (This can be loud, so don't do it in an apartment house or dorm room.) If all looks and works OK, try the rifle on a range.
The last step is easy. Take a pencil or a ball pen and make a note to yourself. Do not disassemble a Sako bolt!
Jim