Reason for concern?

P

Pond James Pond

New member
Attached is a picture of the inside of my late grandfather's autoloader 12g.

It is a Verney Carron from the 60's and is a clone of the Franchi automatic.

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If you can tear your gaze away from the toes on the edge of the picture, you should be able to see inside the receiver. There, you can see a single metal component that has two parallel metal bars. This item connects the bolt assembly to the bolt return spring in the stock. The central channel is there so that the hammer can travel in that gap to hit the firing pin.

My concern is that, about a third of the way down from the bolt, the right hand side metal bar has a slight kink in it.

I don't know if this has always been there, but I know that I have fired only about 4-5 cartridges through it.

At the time I did not know the gun well and had only lubed what I could access through open breeches and other holes. The action had moved nonetheless, but perhaps a hottish load (they felt hot in that 3kg gun!) may have over powered that component. Or it's been like that for decades.

So my only question is should I get a metal shop (no smiths around here that I know of) to straighten it or not?

If yes, should they just press it straight somehow or is the use of heat OK on such a component?

Thanks.
 

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12g

I don't think it will be a problem. Put a little grease on it and see how it works. If you notice a drag in the action then have it bent back to normal.
 
That's reassuring!

I had images in my mind of the recoil bending it out of shape, but I think most of the recoil actually goes to bending my collar-bone and loosening the contents of my hollywood smile! :D
 
If the hammer is rubbing the action link, you'll see a rubbed pattern on the side of the hammer's head or just under it. Also, that can be straightened fairly easy, as those links are generally made of plain 1020 to 1040 steel. If there are no rub marks, I wouldn't worry about it.

You can place the the link on two hard rubber or wood blocks, with just the bent portion of the one leg over the gap between them, then insert a flat piece of steel into the slot, and give the flat a few light taps with a hammer. No more than what that is, it will easily come out.
 
V-C makes some fine guns ! All that you need is for the hammer to clear the two parts of the rod .If so , you should be OK.
 
I see a channel on the right side. The curve to the right starts just about where you see the curve you are concerned about. I don't know what goes along that channel but it does look like it belongs there. I would leave it alone.
 
OK, so I'll leave it for now.

I was mainly concerned that I may have overwhelmed that piece with my first ever shots, despite the governor ring being bevel forward for heavier loads and that the power of the shell had bent the piece.

I'll have another look, but I don't remember seeing any friction wear on the hammer, so I guess it clears the gap.
 
'Ridiculously light ' That maybe a helpful hint ! Maybe designed for lighter loads than we in the USA use .For example many of our target loads are like the Brit's hunting loads. Take it slow .
 
'Ridiculously light ' That maybe a helpful hint ! Maybe designed for lighter loads than we in the USA use .For example many of our target loads are like the Brit's hunting loads. Take it slow .
Click to expand...

I think it was mainly designed to be carried for a day. I remember once tracking down the proof stamps and seeing it was certified for regular loads.

It was largely used for wild-fowl, but if I use it, it may well have to run slugs too to hunt larger game... Should be fun! :eek:
 
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