Rear Sight Screw Locktite

[Micrometer]

I'm trying to remove the rear sight screw on my Taurus Mil Pro PT 140. I have a proper fitting screwdriver from Brownells. This sucker must be locktited in place. I started to widen the slot from the pressure but the screw won't budge.

I need recommendations to get this screw out. Heat?

Much appreciated

 

[Unclenick]

If it was put in with Loctite 272 (the red, permanent kind) you will have to heat it with a propane torch to soften it. Just don't get it hot enough to discolor the metal. You are only looking to get a little above the boiling point of water (250° F., or so). You could also try appling PB Blaster (AutoZone carries it) and let it soak for a couple of days just in case it is merely stuck or corroded.

Nick

 

[Zekewolf]

Before you blast your slide with that torch, try applying heat via a soldering iron.

 

[cntryboy1289]

use a tip from here

I picked up a great tip from, use a heat gun

 

[Dave Sample]

Ditto on the Electric Heat Gun or your wife's Blow Dryer. You never need a torch for Red Loctite around here. I have just pulled off two Comps lately that were installed in these barrels many years ago with Red Loctite and they came off easy without affecting the finish.

 

[Unclenick]

Dave,

Hear that thud? That was me smacking my forehead with the palm of my hand. The heat gun is obviously safer to use. I remembered the propane torch from Loctite's old instructions, but they were concerned with heating objects more massive than guns. I use a plumber's air/acetylene torch because it's handy and I'm used to it. I did a lot of laboratory glass blowing in college, so gradually metering out heat with a torch is second nature to me. Getting set in one's ways is a sign of old age, I suppose.


Micrometer,

Another loosening trick to try is freezing the gun. Sometimes just the change in dimensions associated with the change in temperature will crack whatever is sticking.

Nick

 

[Dave Sample]

Uncle Nick and I are never very far apart and I think we both tend to be a little old fashioned about some shop thingy's. I have a small torch set up here that works for tiny jobs like getting a silver sodered front sight off.

I do not like to apply heat to any 1911 but sometimes you have to.

 

[Micrometer]

I appreciate all the great advise from all of you.

Before I read the answers (impatience on my part) I placed the slide and driver bit between my panavise and tried to unscrew it with vise pressure. It sheared half of the screw away. I used my dremel with dentist carbide bits and got rid of most of the screw. I haven't touch the threads yet.

Now that I know red locktite was used I'll try the soldering iron to heat and break the bond. I have a propane torch but I don't want to risk changing any of the metallurgy properties.

I suppose I'll have to use a dentist pick to get the screw out. I have a #1 screw extractor but it tapers and may damage the threads before I get the screw out. Any suggestions on the tool to use to get the screw out?

 

[Unclenick]

If you have an E-Z-out that fits, use it in conjunction with the heat. Otherwise, if you know the screw was, say, a 5-48 thread, you can look up the tap drill size and drill all but the threads away, then try to use a same-size bottoming tap to clean the threads out. If that fails, drill it out and tap it for a larger screw.

Since the screw sheared rather than shattered, I am assuming it isn’t really all that hard. You should be able to drill it, even if the drill doesn’t come out of the experience too well. This is actually one of those circumstances where a carbon steel drill with the right temper would be superior to a high-speed steel. Cobalt drills are tougher than standard high-speed steel drills, and would be my next choice (carbide drill edges chip or shatter too easily in situations where it is easy for the bit to grab). If you have some, use Tap Magic to lube the drilling.

Nick

 

[Dfariswheel]

Before drilling or other possibly damaging techniques try "picking" it out.

First break down the Locktite with heat, then while it's still hot, use a hard needle-like pick to try to catch the screw on an outer edge and turn it.

If it won't turn, use a small hammer to try to get the point to slightly embed into the out rim of the screw and see if light hammer taps will turn it.

Another tool to look at is the new-style screw remover Sears sell.

These are bits that bite into the screw and turn it out without drilling.

Only after exhausting all other methods use the drill.

 

[Micrometer]

Thanks

Thank you gentlemen.

 

[mete]

Most epoxys and Loctite break their bonds by 400F. A soldering iron does the best to localize the heat.

 

[Dave Sample]

Haste makes waste.

 

[Zekewolf]

Threadstarter: "I'm thinking that if I aim my handgun at my big toe and pull the trigger, I might shoot my toe off. What do you guys think?"

Response: (from all the guys) "Don't aim at your toe and pull the trigger; you'll shoot your toe off."

Threadstarter: "Thanks, guys, went ahead and shot my toe off. Wish I'd waited for you guys to respond!"

 

[Dave Sample]

Now Now Now...................... This is the time of instant gratification and we want these answers RIGHT NOW!

About that big toe thing. Do you think that would hurt?

 

[kymasabe]

Interesting post. I did EXACTLY the same thing with my PT-111. Half of the screw head sheared off and I stopped there. The sight is still in place but I expect it to come flying off one of these days. I have a pair of Williams FireSights waiting to go on but can't get that damn rear sight off.