Reaming or Swagging Primer Pockets

Reaming removes material while swaging doesn't. I did fine starting with a few twist of a #2 Phillips to remove a crimp. I see half the junk marketed out there today as a solution for a problem which does not exist.

Just My Take....
Ron
 
As I understand it. When you have military brass the primers are crimped into place. Those crimps or peened points require to be removed or re shaped so another primer can be installed into the primer pocket. The tool commonly used to removed as far as I understand is a swaging tool.

Now when I purchase Win., Rem. or other common Manufacture brass. I have found that a common problem I have had was some times the primer fails to seat to just below the head stamp of the case and the pressure to seat the primer in the pocket can very greatly. The way I have found to correct this problem is to use a primer pocket uniformer or (reamer) one time to cut the pockets to proper depth and diameter . I prefer to use a hand tool to feel the work instead of a motor... Although a motor would be easy and fast but I want accuracy even if it takes longer to get it done. I have found that when my old hands get sore from the work all I need to do is use a wider handle to turn the uniformer. For now it helps.

I don't use military brass so I don't need to swag.
 
For those who do it properly, more consistent results, meaning no shearing of primers during seating, are obtained by reaming the primer pocket openings with a drill bit and electric drill. You don't drill to the bottom of the pocket and have to know right where to stop of course. For large pockets use a 15/64th drill bit. After you have done a half dozen, you're an expert. While a swaging tool is generally fine, my experience with them is that I still end up with some primer pockets that result in some primer shearing.
 
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For large pockets use a 15/64th drill bit.
Click to expand...
That would be a .2343" diameter bit. The dimensions for a large rifle primer pocket are 0.2085" to 0.2100" width by 0.123" to 0.133" deep. Wouldn't a 15/64 drill bit open the pocket a bit much? You can't go very deep at all with that bit.

Ron
 
Yes, the 15/64th as you point out would open the pocket considerably if you would drill all the way down. But you don't go down that deeply and just acquire by sight where to stop. Other bit sizes by one's personal choice would of course do the job as well. I've settled on the 15/64th and find that it works well. The first time I read about someone doing it that way, I thought they must be missing a few primers out of a box of 100. Just sounded crude but actually it's not.
 
When I was new to reloading, I bought 1000 rounds of lake city .308 loaded ammo with the hope that I would reload it when the ammo was shot up. This was 10 years ago.

i shot it all up in about 4 months and decapping and sizing went OK. I had to apply a little more pressure but I was a novice so this didn't seem strange. However, when I went to seat the new primers, they were getting mangled pretty badly and not seating. I did some research and learned about primer crimped military brass

I was a young broke graduate student at the time and couldn't afford a swagging tool or commercial crimp remover, so I chucked a 1/4" drill bit into my drill and drilled all 1000 piece just to the point that the little lip was removed.

10 years later I have a primer pocket uniforming tool and swagging tool, but I am still using that same batch of lake city brass as plinking brass for my Saiga .308.

Removing the crimp with a drill worked fine and to be honest, was easier than using any special tool for it. But it won't uniform the pockets and it is possible to go too deep. I think whatever gets the job done safely, and easily is best and a drill is fine as long as you are careful
 
Any/all of those off the wall "expedients" will bugger the primer pockets basically ruining cases while seeming to be a novel approach to a simple reloading process.
Use the proper tool and do a good job. I find a "cutter" tool works best on stab crimps while a swager(that's ONE g) works better for circle crimped pockets. In addition, different brands of cases may require adjusting the swager stem due to different web thickness.
It's not rocket science but doing the job well is worthwhile.
 
I've been using a 3/8 50 deg 6 flute countersink putting a small chamfer
on the primer pocket taking out the military crimp. Haven't had a problem
seating large and small primers
 
I have had the two brands iof press mounted swaggers. I found them to be a PITA

I use a RCBS and Hornady reamer chucked in a electric drill, held in a bench vice. Much faster and easier.
 
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These cost 5 or ten bucks at your local hardware store. I've reamed a few thousand pieces of 223 and haven't ruined one yet. If you have good dexterity and a decent sense of timing it doesn't take long at all to get the hang of it.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
Lyman

I am in the process of cleaning up a ton of 9mm brass. About 5% are marked IVI, military brass with crimped pockets:mad:

I was looking at the Dillion and RCBS swagers $$$, when I decided to remove the reamer bit from the handle and chuck it up into a cordless drill.

I t works fine :) I keep the drill ready, when I run into a military case it only takes a few seconds
 
I am a fan of swaging and I like the RCBS tool. It's not perfect and I have had to ream material out after swaging. I don't find it bothersome since the brass is generally free.
 
The problem with your swager is the size of the cup that sits over the nipple/ ram. You cannot gauge your nipple depth set in the pocket, you also need to be sure the flash hole wall is clean before you swage. I have the answer for your woa's. PM me.
I can tell you for sure... You should never have to ream any pocket ever. Reaming is the worst way to size a pocket.

Wayne
 
Wayne:
This thread that you started has not proceeded about sizing primer pockets, but rather has continued about removing primer pocket crimps by one of two methods. The closest thing to sizing would be cutting the primer pocket to an optimum depth with a uniformer tool like the Redding. So maybe we are all confused on this and don't know which way you are going. But using reaming and swaging in the same sentence normally refers to removing crimps from primer pockets and not sizing. But I think you are referring to crimp removal, and if so, why are you saying that reaming is the worst way to go? The bottom line is the results that are obtained. What works well for one does not necessarily work well for the next. I swaged primer pockets for years with the various tools and always ended up shearing some primers. Reaming with just a basic drill was the answer to that. But yes, you should never have to ream if the cases are generally commercial and do not have crimped primers.
 
Is reaming/swaging performed only for rifle cases?

I purchased some once fired NATO 9mm and tested a few cases on my 650. I was able to seat CCI primers in with no issues.
 
Sorry about that condor bravo.. I guess I got carried away because I'm so anal
about reaming primer pockets. Swagging correctly will get the crimp out and get you consistently formed pockets. I have had a few I had to ream a little too. Must be the maker of the case... they aren't all created equal.

Hope the topic draws a worth while and fun debate.
 
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