Cast a few hundred last weekend. Was loading up some 45 colt and noticed a ring around nose of all my bullets. Thought it might be my top punch and switched to a flat one. Come to find out it’s my seating stem on Rcbs cowboy dies. Alloy was ww air cooled. Doesn’t do it on my bullets from the Lee mold but meplat larger on the NOE mold. Strange it didn’t do it when loading in the summer. Thinking of grinding ring off the stem and being stuck with a flat tipped seating stem but hate to tear up my stem if anyone has a suggestion. Not sure with same alloy why it didn’t do it on the 1000 or so I loaded in the summer and just started.
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Rcbs dies and rings on my cast bullets
- Thread starter Wendyj
- Start date
No thoughts on the summer vs. winter difference but....I've modified several of my seating stems over the years to accommodate a variety of bullet noses. For the most part I've used Bubba's favorite, the Dremel tool with what ever grinding point seemed applicable. Some of my stems, allowed use of a drill press to chuck them up, then the Dremel point was employed to get the contour I wanted.
I've also used two-part epoxy, like JB Weld, to modify some. I removed the stem from the die, rigged a wax paper cylinder extending from the tip of the stem, then inserted a glob of JB Weld; then inserted the bullet (with a well greased nose) into the wax paper tube to get an exact match. Obviously, getting the bullet exactly aligned is critical, but not that difficult, if you take your time. I used a "V" shaped wood block to hold the various parts in alignment until the "Weld" cured. It worked well and some of my re-modeled stems are still in use after 15 yrs.
Either method is worth trying and if you screw it up, it's just a call to the die manuf. for a new replacement stem.
HTH's Rod
I've also used two-part epoxy, like JB Weld, to modify some. I removed the stem from the die, rigged a wax paper cylinder extending from the tip of the stem, then inserted a glob of JB Weld; then inserted the bullet (with a well greased nose) into the wax paper tube to get an exact match. Obviously, getting the bullet exactly aligned is critical, but not that difficult, if you take your time. I used a "V" shaped wood block to hold the various parts in alignment until the "Weld" cured. It worked well and some of my re-modeled stems are still in use after 15 yrs.
Either method is worth trying and if you screw it up, it's just a call to the die manuf. for a new replacement stem.
HTH's Rod
I cast for most of my handguns, using Lyman and RCBS molds for the most part. But I do have several from Accurate Molds and like them a lot. The guy who does the work there will machine them to give you a dia. that you want based on your alloy...for some of my guns, there are no Lyman or RCBS molds that are large enough...and Accurate makes a mold that's truly a joy to use.
That said, Accurate recommends a flat faced H&I die for use in the Lyman and RCBS sizer/lubricaters. I've done the same for some of my seating dies depending on the bullet profile with good results. The trick of course, is getting the bullet started dead square with the case. For that chore, I've come to rely on Lyman's "M" die with an assortment of expanding plug dia's. The JB Weld procedure I outlined in my first response, just about guarantees a squared up bullet...worth the trouble to me, for that outcome alone.
HTH's Rod
That said, Accurate recommends a flat faced H&I die for use in the Lyman and RCBS sizer/lubricaters. I've done the same for some of my seating dies depending on the bullet profile with good results. The trick of course, is getting the bullet started dead square with the case. For that chore, I've come to rely on Lyman's "M" die with an assortment of expanding plug dia's. The JB Weld procedure I outlined in my first response, just about guarantees a squared up bullet...worth the trouble to me, for that outcome alone.
HTH's Rod
Put a small 'dab' of 5-min epoxy in the center of the seating stem, then run an already loaded (non-ringed) /greased bullet up into it w/ just enough force to seat into stem firmly/displace excess epoxy.
Walk away.... come back in 15 minutes and pull the bullet out -- custom profile metplat
Walk away.... come back in 15 minutes and pull the bullet out -- custom profile metplat
I was hoping but I took the die apart and cleaned it and it was clean pretty much already. Usually lube is what will get in my seating die but not this time. I think my alloy was a lot softer than usual. I was loading these for Father in Law and don’t want to let him have a squib or run hitter loads so I air cooled instead. Also sized and started loading about an hour after casting which I’ve never done. Most of the time they sit for a month or so before I ever get to weighing and culling them out.
Ok, and how would either
A) a harder allow or
B) liquid cooling (quenching)
Cause squib or run hitter loads?
Just curious. I'm using #2 alloy 185gr LSWC out of 4"barrel 45 ACP at about 800 fps. Haven't had an issue thus far.
I'm using Red Dot to help keep pressure up enough to operate the slide properly, yet keep the speed down.
A) a harder allow or
B) liquid cooling (quenching)
Cause squib or run hitter loads?
Just curious. I'm using #2 alloy 185gr LSWC out of 4"barrel 45 ACP at about 800 fps. Haven't had an issue thus far.
I'm using Red Dot to help keep pressure up enough to operate the slide properly, yet keep the speed down.
Std7mag. Since these are for a Taurus Judge and I’ve read nothing but horror stories about them blowing up I went from a harder allow to softer. My assumption is based on the Hornady lead bullets that are so soft you could probably push through the barrel with half the powder I’m using.
A harder bullet would imo take a little more charge and bullet not deform as much as it’s being driven from the cylinder through the forcing cone. I drive harder bullets at greater velocities. Gas checked even more so.
I really don’t like even doing this as I’ve never reloaded for anyone but myself. I may borrow the gun and run some through myself to see. If it’s going to have mechanical failures like I’ve read then I’d rather it be on me. Personally don’t know why he wants 45s through the Judge but he seems to think they are somewhat accurate. Mine have all been fired through a rifle and super Blackhawk. I don’t care for the long jump in the cylinder to the forcing cone in his gun. Maybe safe and he’s shot nothing but cowboy action loads through it. In my own I hardened allow to drive through or break bone if needed but mine were for hunting not plinking in hands of 81 year old man in a wheelchair.
I did drop load to 7 grains of Unique which is 1 grain above minimum in my Lyman manual. All these alloys and loads are just my theories and in my own guns I was able to test them.
A harder bullet would imo take a little more charge and bullet not deform as much as it’s being driven from the cylinder through the forcing cone. I drive harder bullets at greater velocities. Gas checked even more so.
I really don’t like even doing this as I’ve never reloaded for anyone but myself. I may borrow the gun and run some through myself to see. If it’s going to have mechanical failures like I’ve read then I’d rather it be on me. Personally don’t know why he wants 45s through the Judge but he seems to think they are somewhat accurate. Mine have all been fired through a rifle and super Blackhawk. I don’t care for the long jump in the cylinder to the forcing cone in his gun. Maybe safe and he’s shot nothing but cowboy action loads through it. In my own I hardened allow to drive through or break bone if needed but mine were for hunting not plinking in hands of 81 year old man in a wheelchair.
I did drop load to 7 grains of Unique which is 1 grain above minimum in my Lyman manual. All these alloys and loads are just my theories and in my own guns I was able to test them.