I carry a .38 special for CC. 4 inch barrel, medium frame. How do you rapid fire a revolver without being abusive wearing down the bolt and cylinder? I try to sqeeze off each shot more and more quickly with quick finger work while trying not to whiplash the finger snapping the trigger back. Trying to get off 2 to 4 shots a second. I try to take my time without taking my time so to speak thinking about the squeezing off the next shot instead of just wildly jerking back the trigger as hard and fast as I can. It seems partially psychological than physical. Any recommendations?
Rapid Fire with a revolver
- Thread starter Doug.38PR
- Start date
See http://www.bang-inc.com/products.htm for Jerry Miculek video on revolver speed shooting, he is the current world record holder / champ for a number of things related to the 6 shooter. I personaly have not viewed it so I can not make a personal recomendation on it though his video on S+W revolver work was highly recomended to me by a gunsmith. I have been meaning to get around to ordering them both.
As for wearing out the gun, I never thought of revolvers as terribly wear prone unless one puts a hell of a lot of rounds through them, I'm sure people who shoot competition have done it but it's got to be a heck of a lot, look at all the S+W police revolvers that lasted for decades with minimal work if any. Besides if it's to better your defensive skills any wear will be well worth it as it might save your hide.
Or by a beater practice gun --- I almost did last time I was offered a nice S+W mod 10 for under a 100 bucks.
As for wearing out the gun, I never thought of revolvers as terribly wear prone unless one puts a hell of a lot of rounds through them, I'm sure people who shoot competition have done it but it's got to be a heck of a lot, look at all the S+W police revolvers that lasted for decades with minimal work if any. Besides if it's to better your defensive skills any wear will be well worth it as it might save your hide.
Or by a beater practice gun --- I almost did last time I was offered a nice S+W mod 10 for under a 100 bucks.
Hiya Doug,
It all depends on your definition of "rapid fire". For me, that term means shooting not only fast, but accurately.
About 2 rounds per second (full to empty is 3 seconds) is about the best I can do with any accuracy at 15 yards using factory SD ammo. I might shave it down some with 148gr target wadcutters.
For me, there's a "cadence" I reach when shooting. The gun goes *bang*, recoils and as I lower the gun I'm already cocking for the next shot and as soon as I'm on-target with the front sight I can squeeze just a tad further to make another *bang*.
The S&W revolver's action allows you to "feel" the point at which the cylinder locks up and from there it's a short squeeze to manufacturing once-fired brass. On a B27 silhoutte target, my lock-up occurs about the time the sights are lowering past the target's head. At this point you can pause and aim a bit more or continue with moving down and time your shot just as your sights hit COM.
Just remember: Speed is fine. Accuracy is final! --Bill Jordan
It all depends on your definition of "rapid fire". For me, that term means shooting not only fast, but accurately.
About 2 rounds per second (full to empty is 3 seconds) is about the best I can do with any accuracy at 15 yards using factory SD ammo. I might shave it down some with 148gr target wadcutters.
For me, there's a "cadence" I reach when shooting. The gun goes *bang*, recoils and as I lower the gun I'm already cocking for the next shot and as soon as I'm on-target with the front sight I can squeeze just a tad further to make another *bang*.
The S&W revolver's action allows you to "feel" the point at which the cylinder locks up and from there it's a short squeeze to manufacturing once-fired brass. On a B27 silhoutte target, my lock-up occurs about the time the sights are lowering past the target's head. At this point you can pause and aim a bit more or continue with moving down and time your shot just as your sights hit COM.
Just remember: Speed is fine. Accuracy is final! --Bill Jordan
Slow is smooth - smooth is fast
Start slow, then the speed will come.
What are you trying to achieve ? If your trying to put all 6 center mast that's one thing, try using the concept of 'breaking the man down' which I feel is a very useful revolver tactic that seems to have been lost in the folds of time.
Try just 3 rounds at a time hip-gut-chest, I think you'll find the recoil raises the gun to a natural elevation after each shot. Learn that natural elevation for your gun and then apply it to the target.
I think by doing so you will develop a more combat effective tactic than trying to put all 6 in the chest.
How are you standing ? Weaver ? Break into a low crouch and pull 3, and I think you'll find the above to apply well.
Somebody let me know if I'm way off the mark
Start slow, then the speed will come.
What are you trying to achieve ? If your trying to put all 6 center mast that's one thing, try using the concept of 'breaking the man down' which I feel is a very useful revolver tactic that seems to have been lost in the folds of time.
Try just 3 rounds at a time hip-gut-chest, I think you'll find the recoil raises the gun to a natural elevation after each shot. Learn that natural elevation for your gun and then apply it to the target.
I think by doing so you will develop a more combat effective tactic than trying to put all 6 in the chest.
How are you standing ? Weaver ? Break into a low crouch and pull 3, and I think you'll find the above to apply well.
Somebody let me know if I'm way off the mark
Texas Gun Runner
New member
Don't think you have to worry too much about wearing a revolver out. I saw an episode of Guns & Gears a couple weeks ago that had a section with Jerry Miculek. He was demonstrating speed shooting and talking about the safeties of S&W revolvers. He picked up one .357 (don't remember the model) and stated that he was just getting it broken in. He said he had "only put about 25,000 rounds through it." Unless you shoot serious competition on a professional level, shoot all you want, and don't worry about wearing your gun out! 
a few people ask some addional questions of me both here and in the old school new school shooting stance threat (this thread is kind of an offshoot to that discussion). 1) What model do I carry? A: Colt Official Police .38, 2) What is my stance? A: I don't usually do the Weaver 2 handed stance (that is weaver right?) unless I'm taking a careful shot at 100 yards (which is rare) or sometimes at 50 yards. I generally shoot one hand at a side stance with my arm either fully extended or 3/4ths exetended with my elbow bent. Sometimes (when I have the range COMPLETELY to myself with nobody around) I go out onto the range and do the draw and crouch method as I know it on one or two targets. 3) Do I own a second revolver? A: Yes, I own a 1944 and 1961 version of the OP both are .38 special and in factory quality condition.
I shoot my single action revolver as fast as my 1911 .45acp. I use the slip- thumb method for that. Shooting fast and hitting the target at the same time is a skill that requires practice, but with a double action revolver the action trigger pull needs to be 'slicked-up', tuned, or whatever ya want to call it so the pull is not so heavy. And pratice, practice, practice. Handgun shooting is a skill that will dull without practice.
41Spec ---
I assume below is what you are refering to as "breaking the man down"
"Try just 3 rounds at a time hip-gut-chest, I think you'll find the recoil raises the gun to a natural elevation after each shot. Learn that natural elevation for your gun and then apply it to the target"
Funny how everything old is new again --- one of my instructors taught us a method he had learned at the Sig academy where instead of specific head shots or triple tap drills you simply walk fire up the target from COM to head, if COM is't working.
I assume below is what you are refering to as "breaking the man down"
"Try just 3 rounds at a time hip-gut-chest, I think you'll find the recoil raises the gun to a natural elevation after each shot. Learn that natural elevation for your gun and then apply it to the target"
Funny how everything old is new again --- one of my instructors taught us a method he had learned at the Sig academy where instead of specific head shots or triple tap drills you simply walk fire up the target from COM to head, if COM is't working.