Hi I have a springfield range officer 1911 I had the barrel tin cores and since I’ve had it back I’ve had some issues with rounds failing to eject. It ranges from stove pipes to the slide catching the spent casing on the top of the barrel on the way back kind of crushing it. It also seems to be random and not affected by changing out my recoil spring ranging from 16 to 12 since I do reload and am currently shooting lighter loads. All my loads do pass plunk tests and it has happened with both 200gn lswc and 185 copper plates fnrp. It almost makes me think it has something to do with the extractor and the barrel coating is just a coincidence but I don’t even know what to look for.
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Range officer 1911 FTE issues
- Thread starter kbialick
- Start date
I am assuming you mean "TiN coating"
In 1911 context,TiN is dimensionally insignificant.I don't think it would tighten anything up.Its hard .It is going to match whatever surface its applied to,so I hesitate to say "smooth or slick". I'd still use a little lube.
I can't look at it,but,my hunch is you are correct about "coincidence" ...and that extractor,ejector,or ,remotely,magazine are the likely culprits.
Did you add a shock-buff ? Can shorten slide stroke a touch.Kind of like shortening the ejector.
Most likely extractor needs a tuning.
In 1911 context,TiN is dimensionally insignificant.I don't think it would tighten anything up.Its hard .It is going to match whatever surface its applied to,so I hesitate to say "smooth or slick". I'd still use a little lube.
I can't look at it,but,my hunch is you are correct about "coincidence" ...and that extractor,ejector,or ,remotely,magazine are the likely culprits.
Did you add a shock-buff ? Can shorten slide stroke a touch.Kind of like shortening the ejector.
Most likely extractor needs a tuning.
Yup that’s what I ment to type .. at it’s advertised 5microns thick I didn’t think it could make a difference but I didn’t have any probalem until I got the barrel back... I did looked up extractor tension right after posting and noticed when doing a test hat it didn’t fall out unless I shook the slide for a while but it did become loose and wobbly as soon as I moved it so I did attempt to tighten tension on it not really sure how much of a difference I made becuase I didn’t want to over do it but I did notice when loading dummy rounds after and cycling them that they did have more “flip and distance when ejected”
If it's a 5" forty-five, extractor tension, as long as you have some, shouldn't be critical.
While trying to track down an ejection issue, I progressively added tension to my extractor, from zero contact between hook and rim, to so much tension that the gun would no longer feed, and it ran perfectly, for hundreds of rounds, in between.
A too-slick chamber, like a too-rough one, can cause ejection issues; was the chamber polished bright and then coated?
While trying to track down an ejection issue, I progressively added tension to my extractor, from zero contact between hook and rim, to so much tension that the gun would no longer feed, and it ran perfectly, for hundreds of rounds, in between.
A too-slick chamber, like a too-rough one, can cause ejection issues; was the chamber polished bright and then coated?
...slide catching the spent casing on the top of the barrel on the way back kind of crushing it.
If you look at how the empty casing is supposed to be handled by a 1911, you will find that the extractor is supposed to hold the case securely until the empty cast is struck by the ejector which rotates it to the right and out of the ejection port. If a casing is found "crushed against the top of the barrel", that can only mean one thing...the extractor is allowing the casing to fall free before it is struck by the ejector. You have a problem with the extractor tension.
Extractors can be bent (lose tension) by someone dropping a round into the chamber and releasing the slide. In any event you can do an internet search on how to check your extractor tension and how to re-bend the extractor if the tension is insufficient.
A better place to pose your question would be over on the 1911 forum...they specialize in 1911's.
If you have a non-extended ejector, think about how your shok-buff uses up a little of the length of your ejector. It might make the difference.
There are shade tree methods of tuning extractors. Skill and experience can make them work well,just as "White knuckle feel" can do for tightening nutsand bolts.
Some use a torque wrench.
A 1911 guy can tweak his extractor in its hole in the slide till it feels right.
I made myself a copy of this tool:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ensioning-tool-prod16110.aspx?avs|Make_3=1911
In Kuhnhausen,there is a spec,in oz's for the anount of pull it should take to free a case from an extractor.
Weigand makes a tension gauge. I really like using the proper tools.
Would I count on an extractor being a drop in? I don't count on any 1911 part to drop in. Not only will there likely be tension to adjust,there are other points that may need a little file work.
Yes,common mortal human beings with mechanical aptitude can learn how.
You might try youtube,Kuhnhausen,etc.
There are shade tree methods of tuning extractors. Skill and experience can make them work well,just as "White knuckle feel" can do for tightening nutsand bolts.
Some use a torque wrench.
A 1911 guy can tweak his extractor in its hole in the slide till it feels right.
I made myself a copy of this tool:
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ensioning-tool-prod16110.aspx?avs|Make_3=1911
In Kuhnhausen,there is a spec,in oz's for the anount of pull it should take to free a case from an extractor.
Weigand makes a tension gauge. I really like using the proper tools.
Would I count on an extractor being a drop in? I don't count on any 1911 part to drop in. Not only will there likely be tension to adjust,there are other points that may need a little file work.
Yes,common mortal human beings with mechanical aptitude can learn how.
You might try youtube,Kuhnhausen,etc.