Random malfunction with my Smith 686

AERacing1813

New member
Hey guys, just recently I have noticed my 686 (no dash, pre lock 4") is acting funny, heres what happens, it's done it twice in the last 5 times i've been out with it, and I'm no revolver tech (yet :eek: )

So basically, I'll be shooting it fine and randomly the hammer will become very resistant on pulling, single or double action and the cylinder lock will not allow me to release the cylinder, the only way I've managed to get the thing to break free is smacking it in my hand repeatedly. I've since then taken the gun completely apart and cleaned it all up, nothing appeared to be out of spec/very dirty inside the action, but I'm still new to the whole revolver scene.

One thing I have noticed thats different on mine compared to a new 686 is the lugs on the extractor (ratchet lugs) are more to worn, kinda have sharp edges on them, could this be my issue?

Any help appreciated! personally i'm trying to avoid an actual gun smith, as I highly enjoy working on my firearms myself, i've got the semi auto's mastered but not revolvers, yet!
 
Once it breaks loose, is it "sticky" for awhile or does everything instantly go back to working perfectly?
 
I can't recall exactly as it's been about a month and a half since i've shot it, I want to say it went back to working perfectly, no sticky.
 
S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

The firing pin hole in some bushings was a little large, allowing particularly soft primer cups to extrude back into the hole, around the firing pin nose. This could lock up the action, or cause the symptoms you describe.

If you still have the fired cases that were in the revolver when this happened, you may wish to inspect the primers for any sign of odd deformation or drag.
 
I had a simaler problem with a K-frame. It was what Bobcat said. Primer extruding into the firing pin hole. Had to forcefully turn the cylinder by hand to break it free. You could tell by looking at the primer of a fired case. Only happened with magnum ammunition, never with 38 special. In my case the gun just has a lot of wear. several bajillion rounds at last count.

Mike
 
S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

The firing pin hole in some bushings was a little large, allowing particularly soft primer cups to extrude back into the hole, around the firing pin nose. This could lock up the action, or cause the symptoms you describe.

If you still have the fired cases that were in the revolver when this happened, you may wish to inspect the primers for any sign of odd deformation or drag.

Does your No-dash 686 have a M stamped on the yoke area by the serial number? If not the issue is probably the above.
 
I'll have to checkout those things y'all described! I do not have it with me at the moment, it's in the safe across town... i''ll have to get back with that "M" stamp
 
I have seen this. It's usually the cylinder stop not camming over the stop nose on the front of the trigger, when the trigger is on the return stroke.
You need to clean the inside of the action and frame and make sure the trigger nose and the stop are polished to a mirror finish where the work against each other. And stay away from lubes the gum over time
 
Look for the simple, common things because it's usually that. Eliminate those first before looking for the more complex.

tipoc
 
First, check ejector Rod. If it's loose, remove it, clean it, and put the tiniest drop of BLUE loctite on it and reinstall it. But remember, it's left hand thread, not right. Second, make sure it's clean under the ejector star. These two things account for the majority of revolver malfunctions. Anything else is a problem above my pay grade, and it would be time for a trip either back to the factory for warranty or to the gunsmith.
 
S&W recalled some L-frame revolvers a long time ago, to replace the bushing in the recoil shield, through which the firing pin protrudes to hit the primer.

That was only for the no-dash 686's it was corrected for the dash-1.

I've had rounds come loose from crimp on recoil. Rubbed on forcing cone. Made similar issues.

That is not a problem with a 4" 686 unless the loads are garbage.
 
I have seen a 19 seize up on primers from very light target loads. If load is not
stout enough to seal case against chamber it can back out primers. Give away on this is dirty casings and smoke when fired.
 
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