Questions Reloading Henry Bigboy 357/38

[Joe-ker]

Hello all! I recently purchased my Bigboy and am looking to reload for it in the near future and have a few questions. After a few years away from the bench-like fifteen-I've dove back into reloading. I've only done .223 thus far. Running a rock chucker set so I plan to get RCBS carbide dies.

#1. My understanding is a roll crimp is suitable for my rifle where as a taper is better in a wheel gun? I'd probably just get the taper but my local store has a roll crimp set on hand.
#2. I don't really have the ability to slug my barrel so does anyone know what size bullets these rifles prefer?
#3. What powders/loads do you recommend? I plan on reloading lead RN or SWC 158g .38's for plinking.

And thanks for a great site. I didn't really need another forum to be addicted to!

 

[Nick_C_S]

Welcome to TFL. This is where all the fun happens

My understanding is a roll crimp is suitable for my rifle where as a taper is better in a wheel gun? I'd probably just get the taper but my local store has a roll crimp set on hand.

It's not that simple. And for the most part, whether to taper or roll crimp is largely a function of the bullet being used; and less so the firearm that'll be shooting it.

Most lead and jacketed bullets for 38/357 should be roll crimped. But exceptions abound. Plated bullets are generally taper crimped (or at least, should be). A comprehensive rundown on whether or not to taper crimp for various bullets/applications would take me the rest of the night; and, many differing opinions would follow. They probably will anyway .

When you go to a store and purchase a die set for 38/357, there's about a 99% chance you'll get a roll crimp seat die; because that's the "default," so to speak. Taper crimping is for somewhat specialized applications in the 38/357 world. (I load and shoot a lot of 38 Special [revolver]; and most of them are taper crimped - but the reasons are for whole 'nuther post in itself; and outside the scope of your questions.)

If I was loading for a Henry, with lead, most ammo would get the roll crimp treatment. Which brings me to questions #2 and #3 . . .

I'm going to refrain because I don't have a Henry (wish I did ) or any 357 rifle (I do have a Marlin 44 Mag). And if I did, it'd probably shoot a steady diet of potent - roll crimped - jacketed bullets (like with my Marlin). I have no doubt many others with generous amounts of experience will address those questions.

 

[Joe-ker]

Thanks for explaining it Nick. I was probably "over thinking" it. I'll plan on buying that die set the next time I get to town.

 

[Chaz88]

With cast bullets I am partial to .358 if I do not know the exact size I need. That is pretty much what I use in all my .357 rifles and hand guns.

 

[mikld]

Reread Nick-C-S's post about crimping. Crimping 101; bullets with a cannalure or crimp groove get a roll crimp. Bullets without a cannalure or crimp groove get a taper crimp, both pistols and rifles. But as Nick says "exceptions abound". Basically, my revolvers (and revolver cartridges in a rifle) get a roll crimp or a Redding Profile Crimp, my semi-autos get a taper crimp, and the rifle cartridges I crimp get a collet crimp.

I would strongly recommend you slug your barrel if you are going to use cast lead bullets. Knowing the barrel's dimensions is important to get good bullet to gun fit and eliminate barrel leading. You can give it a WAG and get lucky and find a bullet diameter that works right off, but I prefer to know for sure...