Questions on the S&W 617

GGlock

New member
I'm interested in this gun. I see that they're all stainless steel and are 10 shot. I'm in the market for a .22LR revolver and this the one that comes closest to what I want from a revolver. 10 shot, stainless, DA/SA, swing-out cylinder.

The New Ruger Bearcat and Single Six were in contention but it wasn't the blued color as much as the SA only, non swing-out cylinder that took them out of the running.

I'd really like a Colt Diamondback or S&W M17 (K-22) but because of CA DOJ restrictions, I'm going to have a hard time having one shipped into the state and have only until the end of the year to find one through a private party transfer. This is the last year that I'll purchase any guns in CA as the laws next will will make it not worth it for me to go through the red tape.

So it looks like I've decided to settle on the S&W 617 but I really don't like the black rubber Hogue grips. Is it possible to change them to wood? I prefer something that is made of wood and dark colored with squared edges (classic style). Are there stock S&W grips that fit the bill?

Lastly, which barrel length do you recommend? I'm thinking the shortest one which is 4" because it's lighter and I don't plan on using it for any long range target shooting and I like medium/compact framed guns. This won't be for home defense , just general plinking and more as a collection piece.
 
I say buy it and be happy. I have had my 10 shot SS S&W 617 for a few years now and I like it a lot. Don't worry about the grips, they are easily changed. The 617 uses a standard sized frame K/L and there are many choices out there. Hogue makes a nice set of grips in lots of different types of wood and styles. I have the 6" barrel and I do find it a bit heavy at times so for an all around plinking .22 revolver I would go with a 4".
 
I first bought an all SS 617 10 shot with a 6" barrel. It was fine except I always wished I'd have gotten a 4" instead. So I sold the 6" and bought a 4" 10 shot 617. I really like it.

I enjoy shooting double action and hated to reload my 4" model 18 every six rounds. I Love my M-18, but I shoot the 617 a lot more often.
 
GGlock, They aren't all stainless. Just the good one's are!The first one I brought home was blued and I thought I really had a durable shootin' iron. I posted about it here on TFL and was told to watch out for the aluminum cylinders on the early blued models. They will wear out after awhile. I didn't even fire it and took it straight back to my dealer and he traded me a stainless model and I paid exactly the difference between the two. Thanks to the firing line , I learned something valuable. The 617 also comes in 6 rd. cylinders as well as 10 rd. Get the 10!
 
I wouldn't worry too much about the accuracy of the 4" model. I have one and I have shot it at right at 30 yards standing offhand and while shooting at one of those flipper steel targets (with the 1" square plates) I could usually flip all 4 and reset the target once with each cylinder full of 10 rounds.

I absolutely love mine. I shoot it much better than my Ruger Single Six or MkII and it seems to be much more accurate. My problem hitting the squares was holding the gun in the right spot to make hits not with the gun making the hits. If I could get the little square to sit right on top of the sights I usually hit it.

I haven't fired the 6" model but I would imagine it is rather hard to shoot offhand. The 4" model is pretty heavy, it feels like it is 2X heavier than my Single Six with the 43/4" barrel.

Hope this helps.

Brian
 
Back
Top