Question on trigger pull S&W 60

B

brummbar

Inactive
Hi, I'm a newbie to the forum and to revolvers.
I recently purchased a S&W 60 for CCW.
I have only put about 50 rounds through it, but the trigger pull is pretty strong. Gives me the feeling it might impact accuracy.
I'm firing .38 currently.

An NRA firearms instructor at my Combat pistol class tried it and reccomended I have it smithed for carrying....Have the trigger pull issue worked on.

Before I do that I'd like to solicit advice upon whether this might work itself out over time. I'll probably also contact S&W about this, but am looking for opinions.

Thanks for the help.

Brummbar
 
Not enough information. What - is your M60? New/used? It is usual for late model S&Ws to have rough and tough triggers. A gunsmith is the best solution, they will clean, deburr and polish the internal action parts. New Wolff springs and Cylinder & Slide frame mounted extended firing pins are often needed. Check locally first. www.cylinder-slide.com New grips aid in some cases.
 
Being new to revolvers you have to accept a 12 pound trigger pull in double action. J-frames (which your M60 is built on) can have their actions polished, but there isn't much you can do in reducing the pull weight without compromising reliability. Build up your hand strength as that's the most important factor. Either continually dry fire the revolver everyday or get you a tennis ball to workout on.
 
Dry fire the guns about 2 to 4 thousand times.:)

I am sure you will find a much smoother gun when done.

Forget changing springs, and extended firing pins:confused: ? Not needed.

If you feel you have a problem with the gun, send it to S&W. Give their 800 number a jingle, list your complaints, and likely they will send a call tag for the gun.
 
Gumout?

Sometimes revolvers just need a better lube job to feel a little better. Sometimes they come from the factory with cruddy gritty lube inside, or little lube at all. And you find alot of used guns that have never been open in 20 years or since new, and crud and firing residue gets inside them. People oil the parts they can see like the cylinder rotation points but are afraid to get inside. Maybe a really good cleaning of the innnards and relube(not overlube) with some of the low friction hi tech lubes will help a little. Get some good stuff, not 3 in 1 cheapo stuff that will gum up in a year. Otherwise I have done a little polishing and replacement of springs in J frames and it helps them feel better now, not having to fire 20 million rounds waiting for it to smooth out. I have heard of people doing weird stuff like degreasing the gun entirely with kerosene so it is not lubed, and dry firing it 500 times to "wear in" the parts, alledgedly short cutting on the break in time. I have not tried that or endorsed it!
 
Ps

The Wolff springs are cheap, if you decide you don't like them, and are listed as "reduced power" from factory. But they are not super light, they don't make it a hair trigger or anything. Even with improvements, due to the size of the moving parts, I don't think you will ever get it to feel as good as a larger frame gun with a good action. I haven't, but I still get some improvement from factory. The action is just a compromise you make for the smaller size and concealment.
 
I have a Model 60 snubby and concur that the trigger pull is heavy. It's not that its gritty or rough, just heavy. I dry fired a much lighter one at a gunshow. It felt like a big improvment, but of course, I have no way of knowing if the gun actually functioned reliably.

As for the advice to dry fire 2,000 to 4,000 times, I've got over that many rounds through mine and the trigger pull remains heavy.
 
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