What would cause a Model 28 Smith .357 to strike three of six cartridges on the case rim when shooting double-action at a fast pace? Three cartridges fired, three obviously did not. Only happens in rapid fire, not slow fire or single-action. Would tightening the spring in the grip frame fix it, or is the solution more involved?
Question on revolver failure to fire
- Thread starter super cub
- Start date
Guy B. Meredith
New member
I would think that you have a problem with the cylinder stop not engaging fully.
Is the cylinder stop returning to the correct position? Is it delaying in getting to position? Are the notches or the top of the cylinder stop unusually worn?
Is the cylinder stop returning to the correct position? Is it delaying in getting to position? Are the notches or the top of the cylinder stop unusually worn?
WARNING
DO NOT attempt to fire that gun untill the cause is determined and fixed.
You have an extremely dangerous condition.
Could be as simple as a broken or cruddy cylinder bolt spring; but be sure.
Not likely it is a matter of the strain screw in the grip frame. That usually causes light strikes but in time.
Sam
DO NOT attempt to fire that gun untill the cause is determined and fixed.
You have an extremely dangerous condition.
Could be as simple as a broken or cruddy cylinder bolt spring; but be sure.
Not likely it is a matter of the strain screw in the grip frame. That usually causes light strikes but in time.
Sam
When you say fast pace what do you mean ? Is it the normal pull the trigger as soon as the bbl comes down out of recoil,or are you trying to just shoot as fast as you can?
the reason I ask is if its just plain speed,it may be as simple as you short stokeing the trigger causeing the cyl to skip and not lock up.if this isn't the case then like the others have said STOP SHOOTING until you know what causes the problem
the reason I ask is if its just plain speed,it may be as simple as you short stokeing the trigger causeing the cyl to skip and not lock up.if this isn't the case then like the others have said STOP SHOOTING until you know what causes the problem
Mike Irwin
Staff
Your gun needs the attention of a qualified gunsmith.
Most likely the problem is a worn hand, or worn cylinder indexing notches.
Lots of rapid-fire shooting can be very hard on these two parts of an S&W N-frame.
Most likely the problem is a worn hand, or worn cylinder indexing notches.
Lots of rapid-fire shooting can be very hard on these two parts of an S&W N-frame.
As the others have said, it's sounds like a worn hand, star, cylinder stop or a related spring. But PLEASE DON"T FIRE THE GUN ANYMORE. It is really very dangerous. Would you shoot point blank into a steel I-Beam - that's about what will happen if you contact the very edge of one of your primers.
stay safe - send it back to S&W tomorrow
Elliot
stay safe - send it back to S&W tomorrow
Elliot
Thanks for the info.
Certainly appreciate this advice. The shooter was shooting "as fast as possible" when this occurred, and no further attempts to shoot it took place, wisely enough. I thought it was bad ammo, until we examined the strikes and saw that three primers had not been struck. It will be going back to Smith.
Thanks. David
Certainly appreciate this advice. The shooter was shooting "as fast as possible" when this occurred, and no further attempts to shoot it took place, wisely enough. I thought it was bad ammo, until we examined the strikes and saw that three primers had not been struck. It will be going back to Smith.
Thanks. David
VictorLouis
New member
Had that happen with a 6rd. K22
That shares something in common with the M28. They both have a lot of metal mass in their cylinders in relation to the comparatively small chambers. I really think that the added inertia generated from rapid DA fire may batter the cylinder stop, or at least increase normal wear. Mine did NOT occur until I was doing some very fast rapid-fire plinking.
IIRC, Dave T noted added wear and tear on a 28 through rapid DA practice.
That shares something in common with the M28. They both have a lot of metal mass in their cylinders in relation to the comparatively small chambers. I really think that the added inertia generated from rapid DA fire may batter the cylinder stop, or at least increase normal wear. Mine did NOT occur until I was doing some very fast rapid-fire plinking.
IIRC, Dave T noted added wear and tear on a 28 through rapid DA practice.
Could be the cylinder stop and/or the cylinder notches. But, it can also be caused by excessive wear in the frame window where the "hand" comes through. Rapid fire asks that more force be exerted by the hand on the star to rotate the cylinder more quickly. If there is too much hand/frame play, the hand can slip off the star leaving the cylinder short of lockup. SW can usually fix this with an over-sized hand. Not a repair for the amatuer.
I had a model 25-5 a few months ago display similar symptoms, firing pin hitting the primer way off center, especially in double action.
Took the sideplate off and the problem was very clear. The trigger pivot pin had broken and was allowing the trigger to sit a little cockeyed. This was totally messing up the function of the cylinder bolt.
Gunsmith fix.
Joe
Took the sideplate off and the problem was very clear. The trigger pivot pin had broken and was allowing the trigger to sit a little cockeyed. This was totally messing up the function of the cylinder bolt.
Gunsmith fix.
Joe
the blind lefty
New member
like others have said, do not fire that gun. it's very dangerous.
besides,you should always stop shooting if you experience a "dud",because it may be a slow burning primer.
in either case,you run the risk of blowing the gun up in your hand.
besides,you should always stop shooting if you experience a "dud",because it may be a slow burning primer.
in either case,you run the risk of blowing the gun up in your hand.
