Question on arrow broadheads

F

FirstFreedom

Moderator
I have about 6 arrows with broadheads on them that were carried into the field this last fall. None shot game, but they did go into and out of the quiver several times, with of course the sharp edges of the broadheads making contact with the rubber stops in the end of the quiver. Also, a couple/three were dropped from a stand and thus the broadhead lodged in the dirt/mud. So, given this minimal contact, do they need to be sharpened before next season, or will they retain 99% of their sharpness after such contact? Thanks. I'm a noob to bowhunting, but I want to be ready cuz looks like I'll be going on an elk hunt in September in Colo. (bow).
 
The leather shouldnt hurt the heads but if they have been dropped into the dirt it is likey they may have been damaged.

The only way to know is to check! Hold the edge up to the light. If you dont see any pits or areas where the light is reflected back to you, they should be pretty sharp.

If you have any doubt, sharpen them. Or, if you're not comfortable with that (a razor edge can be hard to achieve), buy new ones.
 
If in doubt, sharpen them. I'm kindof a fanatic when it comes to my broadheads. They definitely dull the more you take them in and out of your quiver. I also have a theory that the steel oxidizes over time, and that dulls them slightly. That's just an off the wall theory though. I sharpen my broadheads at least a couple times during the deer season, and again if I do any other hunting in the "off season", whatever that is. Broadheads can never be too sharp!

Just outta curiosity, what are you shooting? I use Magnus 125 gr. Snuffers on Easton 2018 Legacy shafts. My bow is a 55# Bear Grizzly recurve.
 
I've got a 1999 Hoyt Aspen bow (60-70 lb), with Carbonite limbs. I'm shooting 29" easton carbon fiber arrows, at 10 gr/inch (290 gr arrow, plus nock, fletching and insert), topped with 100 grain broadheads - I have two kinds...Muzzys and "Stinger" I think they're called - both are 4 blade broadheads. So, what's the best way to sharpen them then? Never done that before - have no tool to do it, other than standard knife sharpening stone...?? Thanks.
 
Broadhead sharpeners

Stores like Gander Mountain carry special broadhead sharpeners that are ceramic. They are about 6 bux (also do a wicked job on your chef's knife). I found my broadheads get dull after only 2 or 3 times of putting them into the foam in the quiver. Since they kill by cutting they must be as sharp as possible.
 
Check out Cabelas or the already mentioned Gander Mountain catalogs. Most of the broadhead sharpeners are very effective. Another option is to simply buy replacement blades for the Muzzy's. That's a whole lot cheaper than buying new broadheads, and they're razor sharp.

Replaceable blade broadheads are slightly harder to sharpen than fixed blade broadheads, but it definitely can be done. I've use different sharpeners for different blade styles, but for replaceable blades I've had the best results with the little handheld jobs with carbide sharpeners. I know thats a pretty vague description. For fixed blades I usually use a couple of ceramic type sharpeners. They definitely put on a wicked edge.

Hope this helps.
 
I agree with Ruger about age alone dulling broadheads. I replace blades a LOT, just to make sure I have the sharpest blades I can get. The upside to this is you have PLENTY of practice blades to get your tuning perfected and also know exactly what to expect with broadheads.

NO broadhead flies exactly like your field points, ALWAYS shoot the broadheads you intend to use so you know what to expect, then replace or sharpen the blades.
 
The upside to this is you have PLENTY of practice blades to get your tuning perfected and also know exactly what to expect with broadheads.
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That's a very good point HSmith, and is a nice excuse to buy new ones for next season and have a ton o' practice arrows for my broadhead target...thanks a lot guys and gals.
 
The one factor that makes a arrow leathal is a SHARP broadhead. An arrow kills by cutting and if the braodhead is dull then it wont kill, just that simple. I don't take any chances with my equipment, espcially if they fell out of the stand and landed in the dirt head first. Should never be any question about it, sharpen or replace the blades after that, in fact, I carry extras with me jsut in case something like that happens in the field. Just my two cents worth.
 
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