steve-o:
Once again, replacing hammers and sears in a 1911 is NOT a job for an amateur. They need to be fitted. A gunsmith will typically do this with a jig and a 10x microscope. We're talking thousandths of an inch and a couple degrees of angle that can make the difference between a good trigger job and a dangerous gun.
I am completely baffled about why you keep going on about a lighter hammer. I don't know anyone who chooses a 1911 hammer by its weight.
I don't know what you are referring to by the word "shear." 1911s have a sear.
Different gunsmiths have different preferences for the parts that they work with. Some might like Ed Brown's parts, others may favor Wilson. There are very few people who are not gunsmiths who could talk to you about the pros and cons of one 1911 sear or hammer versus another.
If your gun is reliable and you like the trigger pull, then you've got the right sear and hammer. If the gun stops working or the trigger pull isn't right, then take it to a good gunsmith and listen to what he recommends. He may be able to fix it with a bit of careful fitting, or he may need to replace the hammer and sear. If he needs to replace the hammer and sear, he'll recommend parts that he has used successfully in the past.
As for the recoil spring, if your discharged cases are landing 5-6' away from you, then you have the correct spring. If they are flying 12' away, then you need a stronger spring. If they are landing 2' away or the slide is not fully cycling, then you need a lighter spring. There, you now know everything you'll ever need to know about 1911 recoil springs.
There are plenty of books about 1911s and plenty of DVDs about practical shooting. Go buy some.