Question about Powder Horns

So powder horn caps are supposed to be sealed?

Second question, how tight does the drum need to be on CVA sidelocks?
 
So powder horn caps are supposed to be sealed?
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To a certain extend, yes but your may not be. In one of my previous lives, I worked with two terms; Rain-tight and Water-tight. They should be rain tight , at least. There are as many variations of power horns and there are powder flasks. A picture of what you have would really be helpful. ... ;)
Of the powder horns that I have made and seen, most are sealed but not perfectly so. I do seal my horns. .... :confused:
Your horn should be empty so lightly blow into the spout end and see if you can hear a leak. ... :)

how tight does the drum need to be on CVA sidelocks?
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Cannot speak to that. .... :confused:


Be Safe !!!
 
You don't give up, do you??.. :D
What do you mean by permanent? I seal mine but can not speak for others. Are mine sealed permanently? I hope so but then, I'll never know, nor care .... :)


Be Safe !!!
 
what I mean is I ordered my 1st powder horn. I was under the assumption that the large cap comes off so that one could pore black powder directly out of the container it comes in at Cabela's or Bass Pro into the horn, put the cap back on snug and then use the plug to release the powder into a measuring flask as needed.
My horn came in and I cannot remove the top. Was I wrong in my assumption? Do you have to fill the horn from the plug end or did I just get a horn from someone who mistakenly sealed the large cap in?

Sorry if I did not explain myself better before.
 
I also have made many, many powder horns over the years. And I am also confused by what exactly you are asking. Normally, the butt plug is sealed in and secured by some means - tacks, nails, I've even used locust thorns. I am now talking about the plug on the open end - that portion of the horn that is from the "head end" of the cow, buffalo or whatever. I usually turn my plugs, boil the horn to soften the horn, and push the plug in. I seal it with beeswax. SOME horns have plugs that have a removable screw in finial that usually attaches to the strap which can be removed for filling. MOST horns do not. Normally, the horn is filled from the "spout" end. This can be done by the use of a small brass funnel - I just roll a piece of paper into a cone, tape it, snip off the point and use that for a funnel. For safety sake, you never want to pour directly from the horn inot the muzzle - you pour from the horn into a measure and then pour from the measure into the muzzle. The purpose of the horn (or powder flask) is to "keep your powder dry". That being said, you want your powder horn to be as air tight as possible so that it stays dry and doesn't pick up humidity from the air. The "spout" end of the horn is sealed with a stopper of some sort. I utilize used "fiddle pegs". (I also restore fiddles). I use a tapered reamer to taper the hole in the spout end which matches the taper on the fiddle peg. Not having those things, a stopper can be made by whittling one out of a hardwood dowel, etc. Powder horns can be as simple or as decorative as you want. I've scraped them so that the horn is almost transparent so you can see the level of powder in them and I've made some and left them rough. In essence, they are a "utility item" with the purpose of carrying the gunpowder and keeping it dry.

In regards to the drum tightness on a CVA - can't answer specifically as I've only had one CVA. Normally the drum has a "shoulder". This is intended to be bottomed out on the flat of the barrel - the end witht he threads on it that screws into the barrel should be the length that comes to the inside bore of the barrel - if it extends into the bore, it will catch wiping patches. If it is too short and ends before the bore, it will accumulate "fouling" which can be dangerous. If fouling is collected there, it can hold an ember after the rifle is shot and even wiping the bore between shots with a spit patch, the ember can still remain - this can cause the next powder charge to go off when introudced into the bore. A drum should never be "loose". If you are having problems with your drum and are unsure about how it should be, I'd suggest you take it to a gunsmith who has experience with muzzleloaders and have him check it out and show you how it should be. If my memory serves me right, on some CVAs, the drum is "locked in" with the breechplug or vice versa. They have to be removed in the correct order or you can cause some damage. Hopefully some CVA owners will chime in here and clear that up and be able to help you out.
 
SOME horns have plugs that have a removable screw in finial that usually attaches to the strap which can be removed for filling. MOST horns do not. Normally, the horn is filled from the "spout" end.
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That is what I was looking for. just needed to know if my standard powder horn was supposed to have a non-removable cap. I had assumed wrong.
 
The "cap" is called "plug" or "butt plugs" by horners. They are permanently attached by glue and sometimes tacks or pins (could be iron, brass or even wood pegs). It varies according to the maker. Whatever means it is attached, the horn should be both waterproof and airtight. The test for airtight is to blow down the pouring spout and feel with your free hand any air leakage.

Some fancier horns have a finial which is turned to screw into plug. This allows for a bigger hole with which one may refill their horn. Otherwise, one used a funnel (even a rolled up paper one) and refilled the horn via the pouring spout.

Losing the plug can be a disaster, especially if it was the only powder a frontiersman or trapper had. It meant a trip back to camp or even to a sutler/trading post to refill the horn.

Traditional glue included stuff boiled down from hooves. I've never read it anywhere, but resin from trees may have been used too. One thing to consider, if your horn is an antique horn, you don't want to use something that will expand or contract drastically from the rate that the horn or plug expands or contracts. That can cause the horn to crack.

The best resource on horns is the Honourable Company of Horners.
 
Well I got me one of those cheapies. It is not air tight. I blew into the small end of it and felt air coming out of the plug. It should not be hard to seal that up though right? I was thinking a little rubber cement. Anyone have better suggestions for me?
 
When I made my horn I sealed the big end plug with pine tar and used wood pegs to secure it. I have a second .750 removable plug in the big end for refilling the horn.

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Hobby stores.
Sewing stores.

Best to get it from a bee farm. Petroleum products is added to commercial beeswax and the pure stuff is the best.
 
What is the benefit of using this as opposed to using rubber cement or some other kind of product I could get at Home Depot.

Is it just a traditional way?
 
You can use rubber cement. However, if your horn will be exposed to inclement weather and hot muggy days, remember that expansion and contraction rate should be pretty even between the materials.

Also consider that if the horn is only a $5 starter horn, go ahead and use rubber cement or even caulking. Just don't have any show on the exterior. We're talking about a functional horn and not a restored antique or a hand carved.
 
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