Question about new finish

Hey everybody I appreciate the tips from my last post my gun works absolutely fine but I scratched it and am planning to give it a new duramax finish with one of their kits with the instructional DVD. Id like my gun to be adaptable and be able to spray it with some form of steel spray paint and change camo patterns according to the environmental conditions surrounding each hunt (snow,woodland camo, etc.) and I was wondering if I should just give my gun a shiny black duramax coat (my gun is black now) and spray it according to circumstance (I don't know if Hoppes #9 would peel the Duramax coat) or if I should give it a new camo finish with a Duramax kit and just leave it that way for good? Any responses would be awesome thank you all so much!
 
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I was thinking of doing that; I've done hours of research and found that the options are DuraCoat, VHT, Rustoleum, Robar (expensive and requires sending them your gun, but guaranteed best results), Krylon, Parkerizing, and CeraKote.

From what I've gathered, DuraCoat and CeraKote are good because you can do them yourself but the processes typically involve baking (not for DuraCoat) which I have no experience in doing. I'm also kind of tight on funds and am looking for a cheap option.

It seems to me that whatever finish you use, the paint will wear and chip eventually regardless of how durable the finish is.

I was looking for an "under-finish" if you will, because my gun (Remington 870 Magnum) is currently scratched after I did a very poor job stripping a previous camo finish that began to chip, and ended up scratching my gun in a couple of spots on the barrel and I made a nasty one with sandpaper (Im such a noob at this!!:() just to the left of the action on the base of the gun. I plan to give it a fresh-looking black finish, while being able to spray paint it with a cheap spray paint like Krylon so that I can change the camo pattern from woodland camo to snow/urban camo whenever I please (since the precipitation where I live is quite erratic especially in the winter and I always want the right finish according to snow cover or lack thereof), and still have the ability to strip all the spray paint and return it to its original black finish whenever the hunting season is over (or whenever I please). I'm also alright with re-finishing it a little more frequently if necessary.

I guess my question is, given all of this information about my situation, would it make sense to give a Rustoleum or VHT undercoat-type finish and customize it according to the weather on the day of the hunt using Krylon? Id imagine that Krylon comes off easily with a solvent like Hoppes #9 or CLP but something like paint thinner would ravage the Rustoleum or VHT.

Any assistance here would be appreciated and thank you all so much for your time!
 
Yeah I just looked at it thanks for the tip. How would I go about completing the finish on a synthetic stock though? Is pre-/post-baking only required for these types of sprays for metal parts?
 
I've had great luck with duracoat.
They sell premade camo packs if that's what you're going for, or pretty much any solid color. It's nice to never have to worry about rust.
 
I'd spray it with zinc chromate primer and a good gloss automotive topcoat. Think about what cars experience and if you can think of a tougher application buy that paint. Then you can apply a camo job over the base paint with bow paint and change it very easily whenever you want to without hurting the base coat.
 
hey just a quick question, im currently refinishing my 870 with the duracoat ez kit and its really frustrating; i was in the middle of spraying the barrel and the air brush kit just kept blowing air and i tried disconnecting the siphoning system, cutting the little tube on an angle like the guy said, and resting the compressor in a bowl of room temperature water. nothing seems to be working. ive seen some other people complain about the standard air brush kit that comes in the box and ill replace it if necessary but ive got duracoat hardening on my barrel and my gun is in pieces in my basement. is it bad to let the duracoat sit and harden? should i strip it with the reducer? i know at the very least ill waste a lot of the chemicals that came with the kit. i just want to know what kit is the best and if my gun will be safe. thanks for your help any one who can respond!
 
I assume you are using the compressed air in a can that comes with the "kit". If the air temperature is low the paint may be too thick for the low pressure that your geting from the can or the can may be low on air. Heat your paint and hardner with a hair dryer to get it thinned out a bit...or borrow a small air compressor that will take care of the problem. I"ve always had great results with Aluma-hyde II spray paint from Brownell's. One can should do the job.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raeeeCc9SWw

This reciever was shot with Aluma-hyde II and air dried.
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Same s/g with different furniture. The entire s/g was shot with Aluma-Hyde II. One can.
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