Question about Locktite & more?

T

TOMBSTONE

New member
Hello;some questions.What are some spots you might get benefit from using locktite and what spots that are not good to use this product?Stock bolts that hold the stock to the receiver?scope base?rings?I like to ocassionally take the stock off the receiver for cleaning.I don't want to have to resite in the gun.Does one utilize a torque wrench on the stock bolt to get a consistant amount of pressure as to not change the guns accuracy after its been sited in or is there no way around having to resite the gun?Is using locktite neccessary to prevent the screws and bolts from loosening especially the bolt that secures the stock to the receiver?I've always had accuracy/consistancy problems with guns I've scoped and would like some ideas on how to have the gun beable to be sited in and remain that way.I've always been an excellent shot with iron sites and qualified many a time in the military earning my expert ribbon.Unfortunatly, when it comes to putting a scope on,I just don't get impressive results like everyone elso does.I do realize that accuracy can be effected from cold or hot barrels/clean or dirty barrels.I think alot of my problems in the past where loose or cheap scope rings and bases,probably shooter error etc.,but I'm open to suggestions or advice.I just ordered a factory synthetic stock for my rifle from the manufacturer,should I expect it to fit well and not need any type of gunsmithing/glass bedding work,since this stock is made for this particular model and being that it's from the manufacturer and not aftermarket? Should I expect it to shoot better than with the wood stock?The gun I have is a Savage model 11 with detachable box mag in a 260 cal. with wood stock,but my synthetic stock should be in soon.I've always preferred the look of synthetic stocks to the average wood stocks,so accuracy wasn't really a main reason that I'm changing the stock.I have a nice Burris 3-9 with posi-lock.I forget the model as I got it a few years back,but I remeber paying 3-400.00,the most expensive scope I've owned.So the scope is of decent quality,I just would like to have fairly tight groups and above all consistant.I do think the Rem 260 cal. is a pleasurable round to shoot and I thoroughly had fun at the range with this gun. I had the gun shooting okay,but I would like some real impressive groups,any help would be appreciated.THanks,Ralph
 
Ralph, the only place I would recommend locktite is on the scope base screws. I know that some folks use it on the ring screws but I've never found that necessary.

A torque wrench in in.lbs. is the only way to get the guard screws back to the same exact torque everytime.

Your new stock should be a drop in but you want to make sure the barrel is floated. I use Acraglas Gel or Steel Bed for bedding synthetic stocks. You can rough up the bottom of the areas you apply the bedding to give it more to cling to. But keep in mind that very few rifles give sub-moa accuracy with factory ammo unless there has been some accuracy work done to the rifle. George
 
Thanks George,according to their rifle descriptions they bill the rifles as having a free floating barrel,I believe the sythetic stocks have aluminum pillers or some sort of inserts in the stock.To be honest I have no idea how to tell if the barrel is floated or if the stock needs bedding.When it comes to that type of technical stuff I don't know alot in the stock,scope and bolt action areana.I think I'll get a torque wrench,any idea of what might be a safe torue setting so the rifle accuracy isn't affected negatively,I read if I recall correctly 20 pounds I believe,does this sound like a safe torque to you?Thanks,Ralph
 
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