Wheeler makes a scope alignment/lapping kit and one store has it on sale for about $35 - good kit or not? I'm wanting to mount a Zeiss Conquest on my next firearm. If I get Burris Zee rings, I may not need the lapping kit. I understand how the alignment/lapping kit works but several of my scopes have the Warne rings and lapping these types compared to a ring that secured and then the top half is removed is much different. I really like the Tally one piece units and lapping these seems like it would be much easier. Any direction would be appreciated, thanks.
Question about lapping scope rings.
- Thread starter tpcollins
- Start date
scottycoyote
New member
i have the wheeler kit. It seems like a very sturdy well built setup, but i cant really comment on how well it laps, i also bought the talley rings and everything i read about them says you dont need to lap them, so i didnt. Hopefully thats correct because its already mounted and loc-tited
The Kit is worth buying.
I use the Wheeler alignment bars whenever I mount a scope, regardless of what rings I'm working with. Have found that there are very few that need lapping. I do not have the Wheeler lapping part as I made this up myself. When I show a misalignment I do a wipe to see how bad it is and what areas will need attention. There are times when the alignment is not that far off so I let it go. I guess my bottom line is that depending on the mount, I usually do not have to lap. I have a freind who laps "every" time , regardless.
Be Safe !!!
I use the Wheeler alignment bars whenever I mount a scope, regardless of what rings I'm working with. Have found that there are very few that need lapping. I do not have the Wheeler lapping part as I made this up myself. When I show a misalignment I do a wipe to see how bad it is and what areas will need attention. There are times when the alignment is not that far off so I let it go. I guess my bottom line is that depending on the mount, I usually do not have to lap. I have a freind who laps "every" time , regardless.
Be Safe !!!
edward5759
New member
lapping
I lap all rings that I install.
Some people ask why the shop charges so much for scop mounting. I tell them, I never have seen scope ring or mounting systems that did'nt require it.
Smith Ent. made a system that was close to perfect, but still required a little adjustment. The wheeler is a good system.
Ed
I lap all rings that I install.
Some people ask why the shop charges so much for scop mounting. I tell them, I never have seen scope ring or mounting systems that did'nt require it.
Smith Ent. made a system that was close to perfect, but still required a little adjustment. The wheeler is a good system.
Ed
fineredmist
New member
In my experience mounting scopes I have found that the alignment of the bases is critical. If the bases are in alignment the mounts will be very close and may not need to be lapped. Rugar rings are the most troublesome and require a lot of work if they are out. The rings are stainless and difficult to cut. Most of the problem is the contact of the rings to the tube as they are not usually flat.
I make it a point to check every installation and if there is misalignmet I will lape the rings. The moumt to tube contact is important as high spots will tend to deform the tube and that can effect the reliability of the scope.
I have used the Burris mounts and found them to be esay to install and more or less self aligning. The contact with the tube is felixable and with almost 100% coverage. The Talley mounts can be a difficult install but if they are out they need to be lapped.
The Wheeler kit is as good as any but I would recommed getting some 90 grit compound if you are going to work on steel rings. The compound they supply is good but the cutting can be slow if you are working steel rings. I feel that if you are going to spend good money for a rifle and scope you might just as well spend a little more for the tool and do the job properly.
I make it a point to check every installation and if there is misalignmet I will lape the rings. The moumt to tube contact is important as high spots will tend to deform the tube and that can effect the reliability of the scope.
I have used the Burris mounts and found them to be esay to install and more or less self aligning. The contact with the tube is felixable and with almost 100% coverage. The Talley mounts can be a difficult install but if they are out they need to be lapped.
The Wheeler kit is as good as any but I would recommed getting some 90 grit compound if you are going to work on steel rings. The compound they supply is good but the cutting can be slow if you are working steel rings. I feel that if you are going to spend good money for a rifle and scope you might just as well spend a little more for the tool and do the job properly.
LongRifles Inc.
New member
Think of your high dollar piece of glass as a high dollar crank shaft inside an engine.
The main caps of an engine are bored and honed to ensure they are:
1. Round.
2. Straight.
3. Free of any straight taper, bellmouth, and barrel (as in wooden oak cask)
4. Parallel.
Your rings are your main saddles. Your scope is your crankshaft. Unless your buying rings that are first mounted to your receiver and then either EDM'd, bored, or honed then maybe one in a thousand will actually line up in a tension free state when clamped down.
$40.00 bucks for a tool that will resolve having to replace a $1000 dollar scope is money well spent IMO.
Make sense?
The main caps of an engine are bored and honed to ensure they are:
1. Round.
2. Straight.
3. Free of any straight taper, bellmouth, and barrel (as in wooden oak cask)
4. Parallel.
Your rings are your main saddles. Your scope is your crankshaft. Unless your buying rings that are first mounted to your receiver and then either EDM'd, bored, or honed then maybe one in a thousand will actually line up in a tension free state when clamped down.
$40.00 bucks for a tool that will resolve having to replace a $1000 dollar scope is money well spent IMO.
Make sense?