Question about Browning 1911-22
- Thread starter gyvel
- Start date
I checked the owner's manual and nothing is mentioned about it. Basically the mag catch is going too far to the left and blocking the trigger. Furthermore, it does not allow the magazine to be reinserted without pushing the mag release. I suspect it's defective, too, Jim.
Sigh... Back to Browning.
Sigh... Back to Browning.
Exactly. Either the hole was bored too deep or the shoulder on the catch was cast wrong. I know that a small collar would take up the difference, but, as you say, it's a new gun and shouldn't be so.
In fact, I am tempted to fire up my lathe and just make a small spacer, but it's the principle of the thing.
Bill DeShivs
New member
It does it on mine, too.
Hmmm. That's encouraging to know that it possibly was intended to operate that way, but Jim Keenan said that the ones he has handled did not work in that manner. I am going to contact Browning this morning and find out what's going on.
What really annoys me is the fact that the mag release has to be fully depressed in order to insert the magazine; It really doesn't operate like a true 1911 in that sense.
sirgilligan
New member
I own the pistol. The trigger will not release the hammer unless there is a magazine in the pistol. Do not dry fire the pistol, the manual says to gently lower the hammer.
From the owner's manual:
The Browning 1911-22 is a single-action pistol featuring an exposed
hammer with dropped, half-cock and full-cock positions. The hammer
spur is serrated to help ensure positive control while manually cocking
and lowering the hammer. In order for the trigger to operate the
hammer, the magazine must be inserted in the pistol.
My cousin owned one and he did have trouble with the magazine, it didn't want to insert unless he worked the magazine release, there was something wrong with it.
I like (well liked to shoot it until ammo disappeared) warm up with it and then move to a full size. It is so light that trigger control is essential, and I can work on trigger control without thinking about recoil.
From the owner's manual:
The Browning 1911-22 is a single-action pistol featuring an exposed
hammer with dropped, half-cock and full-cock positions. The hammer
spur is serrated to help ensure positive control while manually cocking
and lowering the hammer. In order for the trigger to operate the
hammer, the magazine must be inserted in the pistol.
My cousin owned one and he did have trouble with the magazine, it didn't want to insert unless he worked the magazine release, there was something wrong with it.
I like (well liked to shoot it until ammo disappeared) warm up with it and then move to a full size. It is so light that trigger control is essential, and I can work on trigger control without thinking about recoil.
According to Browning, that's normal operation; Supposed to keep feed lips from being damaged by not allowing "slamming" the mag into place like a full sized 1911.
Edit: Called Browning again, got a different guy who told me that is NOT normal operation and is sending me a return label to correct the problem.
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Peter M. Eick
New member
Mine has a disconnect and the mags can be inserted without working the mag ejector button, but they go in easier if you do.
Nice guns, but heavy trigger.
Nice guns, but heavy trigger.
I happened by accident on a thread about this very problem on the Browning Forum.
First, the magazine release button is intentionally a magazine disconnector, and here is how it operates:
Both the trigger and the mag release have small tabs on them that line up when the mag is removed, blocking the trigger from moving. The gent in the Browning Forum gave a simple way to defeat it, with two ways to go about it.
The easiest way is to remove the mag release and file the tab off of it. (There is a very small and simple trick to removing the mag release: You have to push it all the way in before the spring guide can turn into its little slot.)
The other way is to disassemble the pistol entirely (very similar to a standard 1911), and file the tab off the back of the trigger. This is more complicated than just removing the mag catch. (It's only necessary to remove one tab.)
Once this is accomplished, there will be no more disconnect, but you run into the oft-discussed problem of "removing" a factory safety device, much like taking the disconnect out of a Hi-Power.
At any rate, I decided not to send it back to Browning for "adjustment" since I have heard some minor horror stories about their lengthy turn around times.
Instead, while I had the mag release out learning how the system operated, I noticed that the ledge that engages the slot in the magazine was somewhat ragged and not cut straight. Also, the bevel under the ledge was protruding too far into the frame causing the follower to hit it, thus stopping the mag from going in all the way. I dressed out the raggedness of the ledge and squared it, then dressed the bevel slightly, giving it a slight concavity. Now the magazine slides in fairly smoothly with much less resistance and no longer hangs up on the release.
Oh, and I didn't remove the tab from either component, so I still have a disconnect, but now that I know what it is and how it operates, it doesn't bother me.
Don't know if I voided my warranty or not, but I don't think that the mag release is going to be an issue anymore.
First, the magazine release button is intentionally a magazine disconnector, and here is how it operates:
Both the trigger and the mag release have small tabs on them that line up when the mag is removed, blocking the trigger from moving. The gent in the Browning Forum gave a simple way to defeat it, with two ways to go about it.
The easiest way is to remove the mag release and file the tab off of it. (There is a very small and simple trick to removing the mag release: You have to push it all the way in before the spring guide can turn into its little slot.)
The other way is to disassemble the pistol entirely (very similar to a standard 1911), and file the tab off the back of the trigger. This is more complicated than just removing the mag catch. (It's only necessary to remove one tab.)
Once this is accomplished, there will be no more disconnect, but you run into the oft-discussed problem of "removing" a factory safety device, much like taking the disconnect out of a Hi-Power.
At any rate, I decided not to send it back to Browning for "adjustment" since I have heard some minor horror stories about their lengthy turn around times.
Instead, while I had the mag release out learning how the system operated, I noticed that the ledge that engages the slot in the magazine was somewhat ragged and not cut straight. Also, the bevel under the ledge was protruding too far into the frame causing the follower to hit it, thus stopping the mag from going in all the way. I dressed out the raggedness of the ledge and squared it, then dressed the bevel slightly, giving it a slight concavity. Now the magazine slides in fairly smoothly with much less resistance and no longer hangs up on the release.
Oh, and I didn't remove the tab from either component, so I still have a disconnect, but now that I know what it is and how it operates, it doesn't bother me.
Don't know if I voided my warranty or not, but I don't think that the mag release is going to be an issue anymore.
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Peter M. Eick
New member
Have you tried to tackle the heavy trigger pull?
I don't care about the mag disconnect. Its a 22 after all. I am more interested in dropping the trigger pull.
I have read that the turn around time for parts and repairs is a long, long time as Browning is swamped and these are selling well so no spare parts. For that reason I have been reluctant to piddle with mine much other than just shooting it.
I don't care about the mag disconnect. Its a 22 after all. I am more interested in dropping the trigger pull.
I have read that the turn around time for parts and repairs is a long, long time as Browning is swamped and these are selling well so no spare parts. For that reason I have been reluctant to piddle with mine much other than just shooting it.