Q on Froglube

C

COASTER

New member
Howdy folks,

I have a few Qs Id like to ask of you experts!

Wondering if anybody out there has used Frog lube for cleaning handguns and whether or not it can be used for any type of handgun?

I read a blog recently, saying it was not adequate for 1911 type of semis.

Also, if I cleaned my handgun with Frog lube, should I still need to use a spray like a Remington lubricate?

Appreciate your responses,

:)
 
I use Froglube on every weapon I own; handguns, ARs, a lever-action rifle, a pump shotgun, it doesn't matter. It's the only lubricant I use now. You don't need to use much. And there's no need to use any other type of lube with it. You might need a dedicated solvent once in a while, but that's it.

I used to use Rem Oil on my 1911 and it would wear off and my barrel would rust when I carried it. But with Froglube all my rusting issues stopped.
 
I have been using for about 6 months on my personal FAs and am by no means an expert. I find that it lubes well for daily carry. Coating the inside and out provides good protection and easy cleaning. In AZ sweat and dust are prime concerns. Easy wipe down and provides lube sufficient for combat use. No evidence of any sweat damage to metal parts of FA.

Although it is not intended to be supplemented with any other lube, I nonetheless put a little lube /hinge grease on my friction points if going to the range for an extended shooting session. Same for my expensive Trap guns, I use Frog Lube all over, but still put hinge grease on the pivot points. I think I would do this for all my FAs if shooting them at the range or in competition for high volume sessions.

The key to frog lube is to heat up the firearm and apply to all surfaces while warm using a heat gun or hair drier. They say you only have to do this the first time. Be careful heating up your glock or other like guns so you do not warp the plastic. I heat the inside metal parts just enough to melt the lube and then wipe all clean once dry.

The stuff worked well in Afghanistan to keep enough lube on weapons but not make it a sand magnet.
 
I use it on everything I own. But on my 1911 slide rails I use high heat wheel bearing grease. And I use the same on my AR BCGs. Other than that its frog lube everywhere


Ike
 
I hear good thing's but I still say gun grease is just about the best thing you can use for lubrication and wear resistance. I cant see froglube resisting wear on aluminum framed guns where you have much harder steel contacting much softer aluminum.
 
On a 1911 I would use the paste.

Heat the gun first, then apply the paste liberally with a brush. Let it sit for awhile and then wipe it off with a rag.
 
I have used it on my 1911 for about a year now and I can't believe how well it works. Follow the instructions and you will not be disappointed. I'm very happy with Froglube.
 
I dont believe Frog Lube and petroleum based lubes are compatible, or so they claim.

Ive been using it for a couple of years now on pretty much everything I shoot. I use the liquid for cleaning, and the paste as a lube. Seems to work as advertised. As was mentioned, you may need to use a copper solvent occasionally, if thats an issue. Its also a little pricey compared to others.
 
Have been using frog lube for exclusively on all of my firearms (1911s, revolvers and lever action) and have not encountered any problems at all. Without question, it meets my needs.
 
I can tell you, the stuff is wretched for storing guns. I treated a 1911 with it, and when I pulled it from the safe two months later, the action was gummed up something awful.
 
Tom did you heat the gun, apply and then wipe it off. The only problem I've seen is a thick application without heating the metal and wiping it down. I've had good luck with storage and FL. I have a couple of Glocks that I use allot and the one with FL shows much less wear and the overall condition is better.
 
I have heard god things about Froglube
Click to expand...

It wouldn't be difficult at all to "hear a lot of good things" about every lube in history from bacon fat to CLP to transmission fluid.

Clean it. Lube it. Doesn't matter much what you use.


Sgt Lumpy
 
I can tell you, the stuff is wretched for storing guns. I treated a 1911 with it, and when I pulled it from the safe two months later, the action was gummed up something awful.
Click to expand...
Ive havent encountered that with FrogLube (so far), but I have with some others, specifically Eezox, which I was using pretty much exclusively as a finish up to cleaning a few years back. I rarely use it now, except for things I want to "rust proof".

I suspect as with many things, people tend to over do it when applying stuff, and not just FrogLube. I think thats what gave WD40 such a bad rap. I dont leave the gun loaded with the stuff, just a slightly "wet" look when done. I wipe all the excess off the outside with one of the supplied towels, and so far, so good.

As far as the heat thing, early on, on the bottles they recommended you leave the gun in direct sunlight awhile, or use a hair dryer to warm it up before using FrogLube, but the last four of five bottles Ive bought show no mention of it. The last time I was there, their web site had one sentence recommending heating it just for long term storage. I did heat them at first, but no longer bother, and have had no troubles not doing it.
 
Frog lube has a little more work that goes into the application than traditional CLPs
Click to expand...
Neither the labeling nor the factory rep who recommended the product mentioned heating as a necessary step. There are other products that do just as good a job without requiring it.
 
Another satisfied FL user here. I can't say it's any better than other stuff, but I can't say its any worse. Works well for my purposes.

Out of curiosity, Im going to have to shoot my 1911, it's been stored with a healthy coat of FL for awhile now. However, on initial application I drenched it and heated it. On the bright side, the coating stays put and works well as a rust inhibitor. I live in the desert now, but I used to live on the beach with no issues.

I suspect, at least initially, the heat application is recommended(it was in my instructions), is that it flushes out the FL/old lube mix.
 
This should answer any questions.

http://www.froglube.com/FL13/Directions.htm


One thing I neglected to mention was the "solvent". I tried it when it first showed up, and found it didnt seem to do anything at all. When I cleaned the gun again using the "CLP", the patches came out black, like the gun had not been cleaned at all. That was the last time I used it.
 
I recently did some training at the Sig Academy and the instructors highly recommended Froglube. They had some other "green" liquid CLP at the cleaning table that we could use but the Instructors all had FL on their weapons.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top