I am batting around the idea of bagging a Python, after shooting one years ago,and looking at the shows recently ($$$+!). So should I only buy new? How do the different vintages stack up? Much difference of when made, or is that just a concern to collectors? Have seen plenty of mint or near mint older guns. How about stainless versus blue steel or nickel? Is blue smoother and better made? Or do all the variables affect all of them, new or old classics? I plan to shoot it, not put it in the safe, like a SAA, and sit on it hoping to profit. Ha! ( I shot both SAA's I had. Bang! 200$ off the resale! Bang! 300$....... But it was fun I guess. )
Python shoppers advice, Snakelovers?
- Thread starter Tom2
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Dfariswheel
New member
Guns are not vintages of wine....there are NO "good years" or "bad years".
You have to judge the gun on it's individual merits.
I've seen Colt's made in the 1930's when quality was at the peak, that should never have left the factory.
I've seen Colt's made during the depths of the strike when quality was supposed to stink, that were some of the finest guns ever made.
Most people will tell you to buy one made in the 50's or 60's.
Blue is no better or worse than stainless, but for a shooter, the stainless will retain the good looks longer.
The way to buy a Python is to LOOK at Pythons.
When you see one you like at a good price......BUY IT.
You have to judge the gun on it's individual merits.
I've seen Colt's made in the 1930's when quality was at the peak, that should never have left the factory.
I've seen Colt's made during the depths of the strike when quality was supposed to stink, that were some of the finest guns ever made.
Most people will tell you to buy one made in the 50's or 60's.
Blue is no better or worse than stainless, but for a shooter, the stainless will retain the good looks longer.
The way to buy a Python is to LOOK at Pythons.
When you see one you like at a good price......BUY IT.
I agree about judging guns individually on their merits. The one before you may have left the factory as a lemon and had some magical work done by some skilled craftsman along the line. Or it could have left the factory as a top gun and had some "mechanic" tune it. The latter happened to my brother and then I "fixed" it. Really.
However, one must bear in mind that the workforce of Colt was much more skilled in the '70s than they are today. As the skilled workforce decreases, so does the ability to build Pythons on a regular production basis. The action requires a lot more careful handfitting than the newer revolvers (and basically all new guns including the Anaconda, S&W, Ruger, Korth work like a S&W inside).
However, one must bear in mind that the workforce of Colt was much more skilled in the '70s than they are today. As the skilled workforce decreases, so does the ability to build Pythons on a regular production basis. The action requires a lot more careful handfitting than the newer revolvers (and basically all new guns including the Anaconda, S&W, Ruger, Korth work like a S&W inside).
Peter M. Eick
New member
My only advice is to search long before you buy. I got the urge to replace mine and picked up one at a "good price". Well it stank! Royally! I had an early 60's one which I sold to get married, and I settled for a late 70's one. Bad mistake!
What I did do was take it to Teddy Jacobsen out of Sugarland, TX (a few miles away from here) and he turned my piece of junk into a better gun then my 60's one. Truly and I mean truly a work of art! Now it is just a range queen, but it is sure fun to shoot!
The python and its brothers!
What I did do was take it to Teddy Jacobsen out of Sugarland, TX (a few miles away from here) and he turned my piece of junk into a better gun then my 60's one. Truly and I mean truly a work of art! Now it is just a range queen, but it is sure fun to shoot!
The python and its brothers!
OK on all that advice.....
I just thought I Better check and see how old vs. new Pythons stack up.
Different generations of SAA are different, some modern era S&W guns have lapses in workmanship(depending on company owners) pre-64 vs. post, Winchesters, etc. Guess Iwill just have to handle them and see, as I don't really want to invest in a huge reference library to buy one gun. Although after I get a certain gun, I sometimes go nuts and grab all the books I can find about it. Then sell the gun and let the books get dusty! Thanks!
I just thought I Better check and see how old vs. new Pythons stack up.
Different generations of SAA are different, some modern era S&W guns have lapses in workmanship(depending on company owners) pre-64 vs. post, Winchesters, etc. Guess Iwill just have to handle them and see, as I don't really want to invest in a huge reference library to buy one gun. Although after I get a certain gun, I sometimes go nuts and grab all the books I can find about it. Then sell the gun and let the books get dusty! Thanks!
Tom, . . . 2 things to keep in mind as you search: the older ones were built by more experienced workers, more dedicated workers (IMO) than today, . . . but, . . . they have been around longer and have "probably" been shot more than most of the newer ones. They have probably seen more "abuse" too.
There is probably a thread somewhere on this forum here that can give you better tips for judging a used revolver than I can give you in just one post, dig into them and take your time.
I once owned a couple of them, really didn't like the 2" barrel one, but the 4" was a true dream. Kinda kick myself sometimes for allowing it to get away from me.
Anyway, look around, there are quite a few gun shows within a couple hours drive of your Ohio location, not to mention a number of excellent gun dealers with good inventories around here.
May God bless,
Dwight
There is probably a thread somewhere on this forum here that can give you better tips for judging a used revolver than I can give you in just one post, dig into them and take your time.
I once owned a couple of them, really didn't like the 2" barrel one, but the 4" was a true dream. Kinda kick myself sometimes for allowing it to get away from me.
Anyway, look around, there are quite a few gun shows within a couple hours drive of your Ohio location, not to mention a number of excellent gun dealers with good inventories around here.
May God bless,
Dwight
I have an older one made in 1966 w/ a 4" barrel. I love that length barrel, however if I wanted one to use regularly I would buy a newer SS Python. The quality out of Colt's Custom Shop is good. Just my opinion, but the SS will look better, longer. If the Blued guns wouldn't show wear so bad, I would buy the blue because there is nothing like Colt's Royal blue.
Tnx again...
Well, I would like to avoid an older gun if it had much wear on it. I hear these things get out of time if fired alot, I don't want to spend alot rectifying that.
I suppose I could justify blue as I like the appearance and I don't expect to carry it in a holster or drag it around alot. I have other more utilitarian stainless guns for that. Don't really care to load it hot for plinking either. Just to 38 or something maybe a little hotter than that. I do like the Colt blue when it is done well. I am thinking of hawking my 3000$ watch for the cash to get a Python. Probably will hold it's value better than a watch. JUst as practical and more fun.
Well, I would like to avoid an older gun if it had much wear on it. I hear these things get out of time if fired alot, I don't want to spend alot rectifying that.
I suppose I could justify blue as I like the appearance and I don't expect to carry it in a holster or drag it around alot. I have other more utilitarian stainless guns for that. Don't really care to load it hot for plinking either. Just to 38 or something maybe a little hotter than that. I do like the Colt blue when it is done well. I am thinking of hawking my 3000$ watch for the cash to get a Python. Probably will hold it's value better than a watch. JUst as practical and more fun.
Radicalcleric
New member
Ahhh... Pythons.... Love 'em or hate 'em. I love 'em. I hear people say that the Colts from the 1970s suffered quality control issues, and many did, but as others have said you have to evaluate each gun individually. The Python pictured is from 1979 and the fit and finish is quite good. The grips are 1950s vintage. I prefer these to the newer style and have them on all of my Pythons and Officers Model Target revolvers.
Sweet shooter...
Here's my first Python. Got it Indipendence Day weekend even.
I looked for about 4 months and was really getting discouraged by the prices. High 700's for a "been fired Python" to low 900's fpr a supposedly never fired? Jeez!! Well...patience was rewarded. Went to a gun show and there were still the high 7 - low 9's there too but I found this baby when all I was there to buy was an SKS. I got this for $475 after some haggeling. Been fired. That's ok...I plan on putting more than a few rounds through her myself. You can see the wear ring around the rear of the cylinder. There is a litte wear on the blue at the muzzle too...not bad though. A couple small scratches on the bottom of the grips. Smooth, solid, and balls on accurate at 25yd!
So, did I pay too much? About right? Or find a real deal? Im tickled either way!!
Here's my first Python. Got it Indipendence Day weekend even.
I looked for about 4 months and was really getting discouraged by the prices. High 700's for a "been fired Python" to low 900's fpr a supposedly never fired? Jeez!! Well...patience was rewarded. Went to a gun show and there were still the high 7 - low 9's there too but I found this baby when all I was there to buy was an SKS. I got this for $475 after some haggeling. Been fired. That's ok...I plan on putting more than a few rounds through her myself. You can see the wear ring around the rear of the cylinder. There is a litte wear on the blue at the muzzle too...not bad though. A couple small scratches on the bottom of the grips. Smooth, solid, and balls on accurate at 25yd!
So, did I pay too much? About right? Or find a real deal? Im tickled either way!!
Attachments
Standing Wolf
Member in memoriam
Radicalcleric
New member
Huh? 
Have to agree with the advice to judge each Python on its own merit. Hard to go wrong with any Python up to the early 70’s. After that it’s, ‘catch as catch can’. Don’t think that you have to worry about getting bored and selling that Python at sometime in the future. A good Python is something you never sell UNLESS you fall on hard times – honest, I know! By the way, I have a friend who recently purchased a solid old Python with Colt’ s royal blue charcoal-finish, pretty much, worn off. He sent it out to Walter Birdsong and, so help me, it now looks; and shoots as good as new! (I’m very jealous.)
Paul Fitz Jones
New member
Old VS New
As the Fitz Pistol Grip Co 1919-1979 My grip customers advised me that the older Mk 1 Colts were much better and based on that I did not make any of my gunfighter or Olympic grips for the newer ones other than some prototypes.
I still have grips for the older Officers Model, Trooper and Pythons in Gunfighter and Target styles and the $20 unbreakable Duramite grips we were known for.
Fitz
As the Fitz Pistol Grip Co 1919-1979 My grip customers advised me that the older Mk 1 Colts were much better and based on that I did not make any of my gunfighter or Olympic grips for the newer ones other than some prototypes.
I still have grips for the older Officers Model, Trooper and Pythons in Gunfighter and Target styles and the $20 unbreakable Duramite grips we were known for.
Fitz
My 6" stainless Python is my pride an joy!
'Bought it NIB back in 95, IIRC, and must 'fess up that not only I have NEVER shot it, I haven't even fed in a cartridge. Now, I know it: I'm one sick puppy, but what can I do? The lil' snake does chant a sweet song to my heart each and every time I handle it, always!
Best regards,
'Bought it NIB back in 95, IIRC, and must 'fess up that not only I have NEVER shot it, I haven't even fed in a cartridge. Now, I know it: I'm one sick puppy, but what can I do? The lil' snake does chant a sweet song to my heart each and every time I handle it, always!
Best regards,
Paul Fitz Jones
New member
Mint Smith K-38 Masterpiece
I have a mint Smith K .38 Masterpiecs 5 screw revolver that I admire and use to show off my remaining Fitz pistol grips I am selling off cheap.
I have a mint Smith K .38 Masterpiecs 5 screw revolver that I admire and use to show off my remaining Fitz pistol grips I am selling off cheap.
pythons
I have owned one and looked at a lot of used ones. The one I bought used in 1977 as a youngster was out of time and I at the time did not know how to get it fixed. It was a blue 6 inch gun of very nice physical apperance about 99% I would say. I recently have looked at two others at gun shows and both were out of time on a couple of cylinders. With the gun unloaded (I always double check), you lightly place your left thumb on the cylinder and very slowly cock the hammer with your right thumb, going around for each charge hole. Then you lightly remove your thumb and see if the cylinder jumps into the stop, or you have to manually turn it to move into the slot. If it jumps into the stop or you can turn it a bit before it hits the stop, the gun is out of time. You won't see it too much with fast shooting, and it may not effect accuracy too much yet, but never the less, the gun is slightly out of time. You will not see this with fast cocking although if the gun is badly out of time, you will not need to use your left thumb to retard the rotation in order to see it. The two I recently looked at a stainless 4 inch gun had one cylender out of time and a blue 6 inch with 2 out of time. This trick also works for Smith and Wessons, they just rotate the other way. When I find a 4 inch python regardless of the year of manufacture that locks up on all charge holes the same, I am going to buy it. jimmyp
I have owned one and looked at a lot of used ones. The one I bought used in 1977 as a youngster was out of time and I at the time did not know how to get it fixed. It was a blue 6 inch gun of very nice physical apperance about 99% I would say. I recently have looked at two others at gun shows and both were out of time on a couple of cylinders. With the gun unloaded (I always double check), you lightly place your left thumb on the cylinder and very slowly cock the hammer with your right thumb, going around for each charge hole. Then you lightly remove your thumb and see if the cylinder jumps into the stop, or you have to manually turn it to move into the slot. If it jumps into the stop or you can turn it a bit before it hits the stop, the gun is out of time. You won't see it too much with fast shooting, and it may not effect accuracy too much yet, but never the less, the gun is slightly out of time. You will not see this with fast cocking although if the gun is badly out of time, you will not need to use your left thumb to retard the rotation in order to see it. The two I recently looked at a stainless 4 inch gun had one cylender out of time and a blue 6 inch with 2 out of time. This trick also works for Smith and Wessons, they just rotate the other way. When I find a 4 inch python regardless of the year of manufacture that locks up on all charge holes the same, I am going to buy it. jimmyp