Purity of lead for cap-and-ball

M

Model-P

New member
I know that the ideal is 100% lead, but I usually add 2% tin for my 45 Colt cartridge loads. Would this also be O.K. for cap-and-ball round balls, or does 2% add a fair amount of hardness. I only add the tin to help with ease of moulding, and would rather not have to have another separate lead pot for my cap-and-ball lead. Thoughts?
 
It should be ok. I use lead that's 99.5% pure. As long as it isn't too hard to load it'll be fine.
 
Your revolver loading levers will tell you when your lead is too hard .
Expecially the loading lever on the 1858 Remingtons ....the loading lever is held together by little pins ....they`ll snap like shear pins if the ball lead is too hard ........ask me how I know this ..:o
 
If you load off the frame with one of the heavy-duty cylinder loaders, I don't think it matters so much.

If your only way to load is with the lever on the gun, you must keep it soft.
 
I never use anything but Soft Lead no additives ... but my thoughts from using only pure lead suggest to me tin is not needed.
The differance I would say is in loading the ball and cuttin' about a .0005" - .002" ring off the ball easily without hurtin' yer hand...
:cool:
 
robhof

2% tin shouldn't add too much hardness as long as they are air cooled and not quenched. Antimony and arsenic are the primary hardening additives to lead. Antimony is the desired additive in linotype. If you have to quench when you cast as I do, you can de-temper by placing the tempered slugs in a 350 to 375 degree oven for 30 min. and allow to cool to room temp in the oven. I use that process for all my b/p slugs, so I can cast a large amt. and drop in a 5 gal bucket of water and not worry about escaping hot slugs dropping onto insulation material. Ask me how I know- to borrow a phrase.
 
Thankyou. I guess I'll see if the loading lever complains too much about it. I don't quench, so that is good in this case.
 
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