First,good luck on your project!!
Not long ago,I used a pull-through on an M-1 Carbine that was a touch tight on a replacement barrel.It worked fine,BUT!! They cost more to rent,and really are not necessary on a Mauser.
Semi-Auto guns like a Garand,M-14,the Carbine,do not allow access to ream the final headspace from the breech.Your Mauser does.
I can't give you a full lesson on chambering here.Besides,folks disagree on everything!!
First.make sure,after your bolt was bent,that nothing,including the safety lug,prevents the bolt locking lugs from resting in battery.You can't get headspace set if the bolt handle root holds the bolt forward.
A few points.Original,military Mauser barrels do not have a shoulder to bear on the face of the receiver ring.They bear on the diaphragm at the bottom of the threads.
IMO,its a very good idea to put the receiver on a mandrel (see Brownells) and face the receiver ring square and true.That IS the foundation the barrel rests on.
I depth mic receiver face to diaphragm.I also depth mic receiver face to bolt face. Both are important numbers.
I face the larger shoulder on the barrel,or the face with the chamber mouth,so that I get about .0005,or less than .001,crush on the chamber end of the barrel to the diaphragm when the larger shoulder torques up to the face of the receiver ring.(Others may disagree)
I use the depth mic measureents to determine how far the headspace gage should protrude from the chamber .I'm familiar and confident enough to ream within about .003 to .005 from the final "Go" depth.Make a drawing,plug in the numbers,study till you are sure.
If you let the pilot do its job,and apply no side loads as you turn the reamer with a large tapwrench, a good job CAN be done with the .025 or so extra they leave you when they short chamber,without a lathe.
But facing the receiver and establishing the shoulder and barrel face are lathe jobs.
I do that final .003 to.005 with the barrel torqued in the receiver,through the receiver with an appropriate extension. Just a socket is not good,as you need a setscrew or two to retain the reamer as you with draw it out,rotating in the "cut" clockwise direction,always!.Never go backwards,and driving it out with a cleaning rod will leave marks.It may hurt the reamer.
You must backout and clear chips BEFORE the gullets get packed with chips.
Its the chips that will screw you up.
Each and every time you withdraw the reamer,meticulously wash the reamer in solvent with a brush,blow it off,and set it on a towel.
Blowall chips out of the chamber and bore,and run a patch through.
YOU ARE DOOMED if a tiny little sliver of steel gets over the top of a reamer cutting edge.It will cut a ring in your chamber,and may flake the cutter.
Use a good cutting oil. A number of tapping fluids work well.That black nasty,stinky old sulphur cutting oil plumbers use to thread pipe with will work,if it must.Its not my first choice!It work,its just a mess.Like molasses.
If you use the mics to get to .003or .005,check with the stripped bolt and headspace gage every two or three (at most) turns of the reamer,by hand.
If the reamer is sharp,and you use it right,no polishing should be necessary.
The first requirement of a good polish is a good tool finish.
Within the dimensional bounds required for a chamber,you can't polish out a bad tool finish.
Do carefully put a small radius on the sharp corner of the chamber mouth and polish it so the brass does not scrape on chambering.
Once again,good luck!