Protruding rim in case gage

RileyMartin

New member
Hi,

After full length resizing and trimming I have some 30-06 cases where the rims protrude above the top of my chamber gage. What do I do with these trouble maker cases?

Thanks for the help,

Riley
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2032.JPG
    IMG_2032.JPG
    174.7 KB · Views: 255
It is very likely the brass is a bit too fat to in the cavity of gauge. Mostly it is near the head where the sizing die has less effect.

Forget the gauge. Does the sized brass chamber ok in your rifle? That's what it counts. I sold my gauges after realizing they were useless unless I start producing ammunition for sale.

-TL

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk
 
Looking at the picture, it does look like there is a bur on the case head that is catching on your gauge. Heck of a ding it took. Looks like it got stuck and was damaged durring extraction.
 
Yosemite Steve sees what I see on the left , looks almost like a crack.. how many are like that. Is that the first time those cases were sized I see a red ring around the pocket.?
 
I think your case expanded, and your sizing was not effective. If you know anyone with a small base die, try that. What did you shoot it in? Are they all like that or only one?
Of course, try readjusting your die downward, if you have not.
The red ring is primer sealant and it looks Like crimped primer military case. If you bought this as once fired brass, it may have been fired in MG with a loose chamber.
 
Last edited:
Try inserting the case into the gauge backwards, that is, rim first. If it won't go past the case mouth, look for burrs on the rim.
 
That amount of protrusion is excessive and you indicate there are several that way. Perhaps all of those do have burrs around the rim. However, how do those chamber in the rifle? If they chamber normally, use them that way. But first file the burrs off and try them in the gage again.
 
When I was first reloading for my Garand I had a 30-06 case gauge. I too had problems even after several attempt to adjust sizing die and even removed about .010" from the shell holder. HXP, Hornady and LC brass all had same "problem". I asked the same question over on the CMP forum (lots of Garand shooters/reloaders there). One member replied "do they fit in your rifle's chamber"? Yep the did so I just reloaded the cases and put the case gauge away. After a bit more study and figgerin' I found the rims were dinged on ejection (the heavier loads = heavier dings) hitting the op rod.
 
There are some nasty burrs there, beat up case head.

When I started to load 9mm, I bought a case gauge as its a bit tricky (or so I thought)

Most of my rounds did not fit the gauge.

I took the barrel off and they fit fine. hmmm

So I played with it and found that if they sat up past a certain distance they would not fit in the barrel. Otherwise stick up was ok, just not too high.

I have not bought a case gauges since.

When I resize as I do minimal shoulder bump, I check to make sure they fit in the gun.

The brass for precision target rifle are kept separate from the Mil Surplus rounds.

If it chambers and the bolt closes normally, its re-sized fine.
 
Not sized right or too long. Very well might be the burr on the rim too. File the burr off. Easiest done with jeweller's files. That'd be those wee tiny sets. Any small file will do though. Size matters. snicker.
"...from the shell holder..." That should never be necessary.
Been loading for an M1 Rifle for 40 years(and a real M14 and .30 Carbine. Plus .45 ACP and 9mm.) without ever owning a case gauge. FL resize and you'll be fine. Case gauges are primarily a way of separating you from your money.
 
After full length resizing and trimming I have some 30-06 cases where the rims protrude above the top of my chamber gage.

"What does it mean?"

Riley Martin, I have chamber gages and I have case gages and I also have home made datum based tools. You have confused some because you are using a chamber gage, there is no before and or after when using a chamber gage; correction. there is no measure before and again after when I use a chamber gage.

But! When I use a case gage I measure before sizing and again after sizing, RMEMBER:eek: when using the case gage before sizing you are measuring the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head after firing; Many reloaders choose to go throught the motions without a plan but if they know the length of the case from the shoulder to the case head before sizing and again after sizing they know the difference in length between the fired case and the sized case.

Most reloaders have cases that have head space, not me. my cases do not have head space, all of my case gages are datum based. What does that mean? MY cases when placed in the case gage set on a datum, the datum/circle/round hole for the 30/06 is .375", the case gage should have two heights, the low one measures the length of a minimum length case, the seep that is flush with the top of the gage measure a case that is go-gage length from the datum to the case head.

Your picture indicates a protrusion above the gage that indicates the case is longer than a go-gage length chamber from the datum to the case head.

I have suggested a reloader use a straight edge and a feeler gage to determine the length of the case when using a case gase gage. L.E. Wilson has suggested the reloader read and follow the instructions for over 70 years, the only difference between what they suggest and what I suggest is the feeler gage, I can measure the length of the case with a feeler gage and a case gage in thousands with a feeler gage and a straight edge. All I have to know is the part about being a datum based tool.

And then finally they are making a dial indicator, when it comes to separating a reloader from his money.

F. Guffey
 
A case gauge checks your sizing result. OP, please confirm your sizing die is adjusted to contact the shellholder.
Also if that picture was taken with the gauge resting on a flat surface, your case could be too long (sticking out the other end). Lift the gauge, or, photograph it on its side showing both ends. Also, you can invert it and slam on a flat surface, rim down. It may stick, push out with a rod or dowel. Again, probably not sized to SAAMI specs.
Get out you calipers or buy one at HFT, and check all SAAMI dimensions.
http://www.saami.org/PubResources/_CC_Drawings/Rifle/30-06 Springfield.pdf
 
Last edited:
A case gauge checks your sizing result.

The case gage also measures the length of the fired case from the shoulder/datum to the case head and as you said the case gage also measure the distance from the datum/shoulder to the end of the neck.

In the perfect world the case should not protrude from the gage;again, Wilson has always recommended using a straight edge, I suggest using the straight edge with a feeler gage and when available a flat surface. When the case head protrudes from the gage the case supports the gage and prevents it from making contact with the flat surface when that happens I use a feeler gage to determine by "HOW MUCH".

F. Guffey
 
OP, please confirm your sizing die is adjusted to contact the shellholder.
Not necessarily. Using shell holders made by one firm with dies built by another can result in a case that's had the shoulder set back too far...ie. producing a headspace problem. In other words, you may not want to adjust the die to touch the shell holder.

Use of a Wilson type case gage and checking that the sized case head does not protrude above the gage nor fall below the cutout ensures that the sizing die is producing a case correctly dimensioned for shoulder to case head length.

Lacking a Wilson type case gage, the sizing die can be screwed into place, incrementally, until the rifle bolt closes with just a bit of resistance. Obviously, this method works best in bolt actions but can be done with a Garand after removing the ejector from the bolt. This method results in a minimum headspaced cartridge case; ie. it just barely fits into the chamber.

In the OP's pic, it would appear that burrs on the case head are preventing the case from dropping fully into the die. Rod
 
Last edited:
Back
Top