Protecting hunting rifle against the elements

N

Noban

New member
I've been eyeing a stainless/synthetic stock rig in .308 for hunting and am looking for experienced advice on how best to provide additional protection for the anticipated effects of rain, snow, cold and quick temperature changes. I'm primarily interested in preparation and field maintenance, as I intend to fully strip and clean the rifle after my trip.

I hope to be hunting in the PA mountains, and having grown up there, am expecting all of the above weather conditions.

Thanks,

Noban
 
Since you say you will strip and clean after each trip--or after exposure to horrible conditions--I hope the "I hate WD 40" group won't get too excited. :)

I'd definitely use a small balloon or a condom over the muzzle--just shoot through as though nothing were there. I'd also use a see-through scope cover to keep moisture off the lenses. A nylon sling is better than leather, also...But you already know that.

If you're out in rain or snow, a healthy drenching of this "Water Dispersant #40" will make water run out and off--but make doggoned sure you protect the scope lenses. You don't want any sort of "stuff" creeping into the inside of a scope.

Be sure and check your sight-in before your next hunt, after taking the barrelled action out of the stock. A slight difference in the torque on the screws can affect the pressures on the action and barrel and change the point of aim/impact.

At the end of the season, you might consider flushing the bolt and trigger housing with gasoline, getting any "grunge" out. Then, lightly lube with some gun oil of your choice.

FWIW, Art
 
I agree with the balloon over the muzzle, and the scope caps. If you're expecting extremely cold temps, then you should take your bolt apart and use brake cleaner on everything...cold oil could slow the firing pin just enough for you to hear "click" and the hoofbeats of your dinner running away. I put that camo tape on everything stainless on my rifle...ugly, but breaks up the white line walking through the woods.
 
Another idea is tape over the muzzle, which will stay in place all day.
A short piece of electrician tape went over the muzzle of my 7 mag during a hunt in Canada. I tried a few rounds with tape at the range, it didn't change point of impact.
 
I agree with the idea of a muzzle cover (balloon, condom, etc.), but not with the see-through scope caps. If you've paid anything at all for a quality scope, you've just added a $3 accessory to reduce the optics of your $250 scope to that of a $50 scope. Get some Butler Creek scope covers that can be flipped up with your thumbs as you raise your rifle. Closed, they will keep your lenses clean and dry; opened, you get the full potential of your scope.
 
scope covers and electrical tape. Not tried the wd40 method Art described, but a light coat of car wax works for me.
 
When stationed in Alaska prior to each hunt I'd clean the gun and put a good coat of car wax on all surfaces. I had already waxed the inside of the stock, underside of the receiver and barrel so that didn't have to be repeated. Worked fine for me.

Second (fourth?) the motion about the condom/tape and flip up scope covers.



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Schmit
GySgt, USMC(Ret)
NRA Life, Lodge 1201-UOSSS
"Si vis Pacem Para Bellum"
 
Definitely agree with the wax idea for wood stocks--particularly the inletted portions.

SFAIK, the vulnerable non-stainless parts would be inside the bolt and the trigger assemblies, plus sling swivels and scope mounts/rings. (Excepting aluminum parts, of course.)

Out of ignorance, I'll ask whether there could be any chemicals in wax, etc., which could cause any discoloration or staining of a non-polished stainless steel?

The main reason I like WD40 is that it is superb as a water/moisture "remover". Any grunge buildup is the result of *repeated* sprayings without a wipedown or use of the good old toothbrush in nooks, crevices and crannies. Improper use and improper cleaning can screw up anything! WD40 is only one among dozens of "grunge builders".

Good hunting!

Art
 
Be VERY careful using WD40 on firearms because in closed areas, such as in a rifle magazine or a gun case, it emits vapors which are harmful to primers if exposed for any length of time.
There are other lubricants on the market which will work as well without putting your ammo at risk.
 
I've been using Birchwood & Casey rust preventitive for quite a while inside and outside my barrels with no ill effect that I know of. It is also a water displacer. Does it also put out vapors that harm primers?
 
Dunno as I've ever had an attack of these particular vapors. :)

Look. Slopping on any do-good stuff, WD40 or whatever, is only a field-expedient type of thing, to protect on a short-term basis.

A "real" cleaning leaves a nearly-dry surface. Whatever stuff you use evaporates fairly quickly when there is only a very thin film; nothing left to vaporize enough to hurt anything. While these vapors might be a problem for long-term storage if there is a thicker coating of "stuff", I don't store my guns with ammo in the magazine or chamber...

FWIW, Art
 
Noban,

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>... and quick temperature changes[/quote]

Try your best to minimize the quick temperature changes you subject your rifle to. Of course some temp. changes are unavoidable, e.g. a quick moving storm hits. I'm talking about taking your rifle out of a warm cabin or car interior, and into an environment like a 20 degree high humidity morning. It could cause you scope to fog (although with new higher quality scopes this is less likely), condensation forming on the barrel and action, and sometimes problems due to inequal cooling of the barrel and stock (although probably less of a problem with a synthetic stock).

How to avoid/minimize these temp. change situations just takes a little planning. Leave your rifle locked in the trunk, instead of the cabin. If driving to a hunting area, I'll set my rifle in it's case out on the hood as soon as I get to the parking lot. It will cool off slower in the case, while I put on boots and org the daypack.

Hope this helps - JohnDog
 
Items of possible interest to you:
Butler Creek "Blizzard" scope caps are see through flip-ups. best of both worlds.
Also, I use Militec-1 on my rifle and as it seals itself in the pores, the protective layer is not affected by wet, or wiping completely dry. Neat stuff.
 
Noban:

If you intend to strip your rifle often, take a tip from the benchrest gang.

Invest in a pair of new action screws with socket heads ( "Allen" headed guard screws, Brownell's sell them ) and a light-duty torque wrench, inch-pound size.

Assemble your rifle using your new action bolts, torque them to some reasonable figure, and write the torque on the wall or someplace where you wont forget it.

Each time you strip your rifle for some reason just re-torque the bolts to the same figure.

This will save you a whole bunch of aggervation with the gun not shooting the same as the last time you assembled it.

Jim

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Lay up some blackpowder and flints
The rest we can build, if need be
 
On the subject of torqueing action screws in which order is that best done. I would think that the forward screw would be tightened first but don't know for sure.
 
Clint Tickler,

WD40 is the only lubricant I'm aware of whose vapors will attack primers.
Don't know what the details are, but the gun writers were cautioning against using it some years ago.

I used it regularly up to that point and always had some dud rounds. I figured I was screwing something up when I reloaded.

I stopped using WD40 on my guns altogether after reading the warning and have not had a dud since.

Once I put a bottle of backpacker's liquid soap and two brand new boxes of CCI .22 ammo in the same pocket of my backpack. It then sat in my closet for six months. The soap never leaked, but six months later only one round in three would fire.
I have no idea what happened or why, but the bottom line is the ammo got contaminated.
 
Clint: I think you're right about the sequence, although the Weatherby book which came with my rifle is the only thing I've ever seen printed which mentioned that.

So, next time you're by a gun store which sells Wbys, check and see what the book says. (I'm 1,400 miles from my book, right now.)

Regards, Art
 
When doing my glass-bedding, I'll seal all the exposed wood areas w/urethane, etc. a quick sanding to remove any build-up & final coat/sanding does the trick. I use wax on my stocks as well for outer areas.

Too, as long as you repeat your screw torquing sequence the same always, you'll not likely run into any problems as that's the way you've set up your rifle. It won't know the diff. ;)

The socket screws are a good idea and you can get a torque driver that is adjustable. Once you've determined what torque you need, set the lock ring & forget it. Torque till it clicks & you're done.
 
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