Properly mounting rings to weaver base.

C

Canada

Inactive
I have a warne weaver base. The rings have recoil lugs (metal bars) that fit into the weaver base's slots. These lugs are loose so the rings can slide back and forth until they are tightened. Obviously the lugs serve the purpose of stopping the rings from flexing back. So, does the front face of the ring lug mate with the back side of the base, or does the back side of the ring lug mate with the front side of the base? There are no instructions which I find surprising.

Also, the underside of the warne base has a burr running the entire length on one side. When I slide it over my rifle, you can clearly feel it raising up. I don't know if I should bother filing or sanding the burr off, because it will expose the steel underneath which will probably rust when I'm hunting in the rain. If I leave the burr intact, the base isn't fully mated to the rifle, I wonder if this may eventually cause the base to move around or the screws to go loose. Any thought? (Just shoot the damn thing?)
 
I slide the ring lug towards the muzzle of the rifle as that is the way it will want to move in recoil.

Burrs? Being a retired toolmaker I don't like burrs, they have to go. Touch up with cold blue then oil.

My $.02
 
The first guy is correct about recoil.
Move them towards the muzzle before you clamp.

He's also dead right about burrs,
Along with burrs being potential misalignment issues,
They show VERY POOR machining work..
Nothing like 'MASS PRODUCTION' with unskilled labor and poor workmanship!

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Are these rings coming off this base anytime in the foreseeable future?

If they ARE, then try this,
Some fine copper wire strands to fill in 'Gaps',
Something small enough to COMPRESS and DEFORM when you tighten things down to make the rings more solid on the mount.

If the are NOT coming off anytime soon,
RESIN BED the rings into place so they simply can't move around.

Rings on 'Grooves' simply are not SQUARE with each other, and usually not the mount.
Do you know about LAPPING your optics cradles so they align with each other/the optic?

It's pretty simple,
You use a proper size STRAIGHT bar, some lapping compound and work away at the cradles until they line up with each other.
The cradles are DEAD STRAIGHT until you take them off the next time,
This way, the tube doesn't have uneven clamping force applied to it,
And in severe situations, the tube isn't 'Bent' into conforming to the rings which will be skewed.

The lapping process makes the MOUNTED RING CRADLES align with each other, and your TUBE doesn't have to compensate for the misalignment of the rings...
 
I don't know if I should bother filing or sanding the burr off, because it will expose the steel underneath which will probably rust when I'm hunting in the rain.
Click to expand...
That microscopic layer of discoloration called "bluing" does nothing at all to preventing rust.

Sand off the burr and keep your gun oiled properly
 
I was really ticked off and the good people at Warne are gonna help me out. He says the parts get tumbled and the burr was probably just bigger than usual. They will send me a new one.


Thanks for the replies!
 
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