Proper slide lube, metal guns only.

B

BoogieMan

New member
I know this has been discussed many times over. But everything I have found seems to be more of an argument and less about actual information. I just received a new pistol and its on my mind. I wiped down the factory oil that was everywhere. I have now applied frog lube and worked it back and forth a few times. I plan to wipe the FL off later today and then apply a light coat of synthetic oil (lucas gun oil) then go shoot. My guns with 1000's of rounds on them have all received a similar treatment. IMO the only thing thats needed is a thin layer to prevent metal to metal galling. So far my slides are all wearing as I would expect. Tight, smooth and shiny.
So, have I been lucky? What do you use on your steel, steel to aluminum, and stainless steel guns? From my machining experience SS to SS would be the greatest threat due to the nickel content of SS.
 
I have used "made for pistols" slide grease that has slowed the slide down and caused malfunctions.

I have had great experiences wth Lubriplate. From car engine assembly, to camshaft break in lube, to rifles, pistols, door hinges, etc. Most gun owners don't give a hoot about shearing in greases, etc. I'm a technical guy, and I do. Comes from engine building.

But "Lubriplate" is not one product. You need to choose the right one. That said, a lot of greases work 100% perfectly for the application in question. I just think highly of Lubriplate.
 
For my metal frame pistols I use Slide Glide grease but any quality grease should do but some seem to be more tacky than others which is what I like about Slide Glide. When that runs out I will probably try Lucas Marine Grease.

Personally I would not touch Frog Lube with a ten foot pole. WAY to many credible reports of it migrating into firing pin channel and turning into sludge and causing failures to fire including those who say they applied it per directions.

http://sigtalk.com/sig-sauer-pistols/19112-froglube-fail-x2.html

As many might know of my first Froglube fail post. Well, it happened again except on a entirely different gun. My wife's HK USP Compact 9mm developed light primer strikes last week out of the blue. The gun failed to discharge any rounds reliably. This gun has been flawless for 15 years. Even after several strikes, the round would not go off.. This was with WWB but it also did it with Hornady CD and GoldenSaber. Sent the gun to HK on Monday and just got a call form them. The Froglube migrated into the firing pin and created a sludge. I wiped this gun down after the Froglube was applied but after a few range trips, the Froglube migrated into areas it was never applied to.
They have seen this before with Froglube and as soon as they could smell the lube, they did a full strip down to find the mess. That's two high end ultra reliable handguns that Froglube failed on. I am rather upset with this Froglube garbage and can't imagine if my wife actually had to use her HK for personal defence and herd nothing but a "click" sound. I am a experience shooter (Gunsite, IPSC, etc) and I am going on record to recommend you discontinue using Froglube.
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A good quality grease should work on the slide.

Really, anything other than Froglube. I threw my bottle away after my Winchester 94 was so gummed up I had to strip it down the the firing pin.

I realize that people say "you have to wipe it off again"...

Never before have I heard of a product that has to be removed in order for it to work...
 
Grease, not oil. And only a tiny bit. Powdered graphite (messy stuff, so it is) in extreme cold.
Anything with the word 'gun' or 'gunsmith's' in its name just costs more.
 
I used grease on a new Dan Wesson and had ftf issues. Dan Wesson advised me to use a liberal application of oil, not grease, on the slide. Cured the problems.
 
Old S&W 5906 manual specifies to apply light film of gun oil and wipe down. It may not be needed, if shooting a few hundred rounds will put a dab of oil on the rails
 
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I follow Wilson Combat's recommendations on my guns...( most are all stainless or steel on steel / some steel on alloy ) - whether they are Wilson 1911's or my Sigs, etc:

From Wilson's web site:
LUBRICANTS
Use plenty of lubrication during break in and thereafter. We find that most service issues are caused by under lubricating or too-heavy viscosity lubricant in 9mm pistols.
We recommend the following lubricants for best results:
Under 60° F: Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Light Oil, Break Free LP or Shooters Choice FP-10. These lubricants should be used during the break in regardless of temperature.
Over 60° F: Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II Oil, Lucas Extreme Duty Oil or Lucas Gun Oil
All Around: WC Ultima-Lube II Light Oil, Shooter Choice FP-10, EWL Slip 2000, Break-Free LP
NEVER Use any Form of Grease on a 9mm Pistol!
..................
I prefer the Wilson Ultima Lube... but I have also used a lot of CLP over the years..
 
I use plain jane moly grease on slide rails. A little dab thoroughly spread will do you. Never had a pistol fail because of using grease... but I suspect the slide to frame fit of a Wilson may be much tighter than any standard production pistol.
 
I've got a very specific method for lubricating both my pistols and revolvers.

For steel on steel I juse - Hornady OneShot cleaner/lube
For steel on alum. I use - Hornady OneShot cleaner/lube
For alum. on polymer I use - Hornady OneShot cleaner/lube
For SS - I use - Hornady OneShot cleaner/lube

Seems to work fine for me over the years. To be honest, there's no "magic sauce" and just about anything will work. Grease is kind-of a no-no in cold weather IME. Just don't overdo it, or the excess will just collect dirt and firing residue more quickly. That CAN result in excess wear on parts.
 
I have been shooting and cleaning guns for almost four decades. I have tried so many different, oils greases, products etc.... there is no way I can remember them all. When it comes to oil I use Tetra oil if I want a thick oil or Marvel Mystery Oil for everything else. About a year ago I went way off base for gun grease. I think the old mantra runs "if it slides grease it, if it turns oil it". I usually run my guns a little "wetter" than most people.

For the past year I have been trying a high end synthetic brake caliper grease and really like how it performs. Call me crazy but think it through, disc brakes/calipers have to endure fantastic amounts of mechanical stress / friction / heat, etc.... and function flawlessly or well maybe cost your life.

So far it has been fantastic on:
3 different 1911s in .45acp steel on steel and stainless on stainless
4 various makes of .380's (none of them exceptional quality)
various .22 pistols and rifles
five ARs
various Glocks in different calibers
a few different bolt guns

Totally unconventional, but try it before you criticize it.
 
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In the past, I used nothing but 5w-20 synthetic motor oil. I figure if it can keep a 11,000 RPM motorcycle engine running, it should have no problems with a firearm. Plus, I can get a 10 year supply, one quart, for the cost of a couple ounces of "gun oil". Lately, I have been playing around with Tetra Gun Grease. So far so good. I still use oil on my Bullseye competition pistols. They may be too tight to use grease on. But plan to try it someday soon.
 
Engine oil may be wonderful in a pressurized thick film application where it is constantly filtered and heated to remove moisture but it is not made for use in an open and dirty environment.
Gun oils are made to wick and penetrate while resisting moisture and dirt. They are not the same environments. Motor oil is better than no oil but it is not a good gun oil. ATF is a better gun oil but it is too thick to really penetrate. Cut with kerosene in a 50/50 mix it makes a very effective gun oil. It penetrates well and wicks into tight areas (I use it to free rusted bolts too) and it doesn't pick up grit and dirt except for the finest dust. It doesn't thicken in cold and takes the heat of firing without a problem. It is a non-ionic lubricant so it doesn't promote corrosion on different materials (like steel on aluminum).

For slides you need something heavier that will remain in place, not be sticky so as to pick up and retain dirt and grit, and not get rigid in cold weather. It should be compatible with the gun oil you use in case of cross contamination which can turn into a waxy or tar-like mess that neither lubricates nor protects against water. I use my gun oil in a 60/40 mix with Hilton's HyperLube (a viscosity index increaser like STP oil treatment). It takes very little to do the job and doesn't run when the gun gets warm.

What I use suits the job at hand and works well with my cleaning regimen. It may not be right for you and there are many lubes to choose from. Just remember that it must always do the job intended no matter what temperature conditions exist and regardless of the humidity. Find what works for you and stick with it.
 
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