Proper lube of a 1911?

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Red Bull

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Hello fellow shooters,

As a Glock man, and basically an advanced Glock armorer, I know very well how to take care of a Glock, but no one has ever given me trusted advice on how to lube a 1911.
My dad told me to lube all guns sparingly, only lubing what is needed, so that they don't gather dirt. I didn't listen to him for a long time, but now I do, and with Glocks it is easy: they require almost no maintenence and almost no lube.

Some of my friends who have military backgrounds spray down their entire guns with lube, drowning every part, then put it back together and wipe down the outside. Then that lube on the inside of the gun gathers dirt and fouling and turns into mud in their guns. They can't seem to figure out that you only need to lube the necessary areas, not drown the whole gun. Furthermore, more is not always better in this case because too much lube can cause your gun to jam when you need it.

But, most people I know that have 1911's drown them in oil: EVERYTHING gets a good dose of oil. One 1911 user pulled me aside once and said that he was going to show me a "secret". He demonstarted how (after already drowning his gun in oil), he squirts even more oil into the bottom of the grip safety, stating that "many people forget to oil that part", which I think is silly because the base of the grip safety just doesn't take that much stress. Less lube is better, IMO, and that just doesn't seem like a part that takes a lot of abuse (although I could be wrong!).

Advice like that is what has driven me here to get the real scoop.

I tend to use grease because I live in hot climates and like my lube to stay were I put it.
I use light oil like Tri-Flow, Breakfree or RemOil for places that I can't reach with grease.
As far as grease, I use a variety, but on my stainless 1911's I usually use Rig's "+P" grease that is designed for Stainless Steel guns just because it seems like a good idea.


(BTW, I LOVE the Sentry system of dry lubricant for my Glocks, but I don't yet trust that system to take care of my expensive 1911's. I take very good care of my 1911's because they are expensive....and one of them...the one that I use the most...is irreplacable.)




So anyway: Please, someone who really knows what they are talking about please tell me how to take really good care of my 1911.
Cleaning is easy enough (unless there are some secret places to clean? ;) ) but lubricant is a tough part.
I don't want to drown my gun in oil unless that is really how 1911's are supposed to be lubed.
So, please tell me specifically were to lube, preferrably where to lube with grease and where to squirt some oil. Pretend I just stripped down my 1911, took the grips off too, and cleaned the whole thing top to bottom, getting every bit of grease and oil out of the gun, even spraying gun Scrubber or whatever into the hammer mechanism and leaving no lubrication anywhere on or in the gun. Now: where do I lube with grease and oil?
Less is better, but I also don't want my 1911 wearing out on me because I under-lube it.


Glocks are so much easier to maintain, but 1911's are still so much fun... :D


Thanks, I realize that it will take time for people to write out proper instructions, but this is much appreciated!!!!




Ps- One old gunfighter told me that he uses Simple Green to CLEAN his guns. After searching high and low for a cheap but effective way to clean my guns, this seems to work. A big jug of Simple Green is available from Costco for $7, and it cleans guns up real good. Gun Scrubber is nice and easy, but expensive. Simple Green and an old toothbrush is cheap and it works real well. I hope that there is nothing wrong with using it on a 1911.


(Somehow I made this really short question into a really long post...I should remember that sometimes "less is better" ;) )









[This message has been edited by Red Bull (edited November 21, 1999).]
 
I use Breakfree on all of my guns. I have several 1911s and Glocks. On my 1911s I put a small drop on several internal areas - sear and hammer surface, the hammer pin,sear pin,thumb safety,disconnect- spring contact area. I lube these areas every two to three months. Other areas that I lube more frequently are barrel, bushing, frame rails,
bottom barrel lugs,link, slide lock and upper barrel lugs. A light coating of oil is all that is needed. A lot depends on how tightly your 1911s are put together. I shoot 200 to 400 rds. a week thru one of my 1911s and it is as tight as the day I built it. I think Breakfree is hard to beat. If it will protect a M60 it wiil protect anything.HTH
 
RB, the only "trick" I know is to run a .22 cleaning brush through the extractor hole in the slide every know & again.
It's amazing how much blown back crud gets in there !
Someone somewhere posted about lubing the 1911 but I can't find it at the moment... :(
In the meantime visit http://www.m1911.org/ then have a read in the http://www.m1911.org/technic.htm section. Also have a peek at http://www.larue-targets.com/Extreme1911.html
Lotsa good stuff !

------------------
"The Gun from Down Under !"
http://www.para1911fanclub.w3.to/
E-mail hotshot_2000@hotmail.com
Alternate E-mail
HS2000@ausi.com



[This message has been edited by HS (edited November 21, 1999).]
 
Thanks so far.

One other way to ask it would be, "What parts should I NOT lube?"


On a Glock, there are parts that you should NEVER lube with oils, basically the entire striker pin and striker spring area. Oil will attract dirt and fouiling into the striker channel and could cause a light primer strike and therefore too much lube could get you killed. On a Glock, you just lube like three little areas very lightly.

Is there anywhere like that on a 1911 that I should specifically NOT lube?

The original questiopn still stands for those that want to tackle it. I already grease the rails and the outside of the barrel/inside of the slide where it meets the barrel. I am especially wondering about lubing the sum of the little mechanical parts like the trigger, hammer, firingpin, and all those little areas around there.

thanks!
 
I just dip my Gold cup in a large bucket of 10w40 and shake it off.
Don't forget to remove the grips.
Just kidding.
Lotsa' lube will indeed attract dirt, but mostly powder residue if you shoot it like that.
I am one of those guys that lubes the shoot out of his guns, mostly because I've got a large collection, and I don't shoot most of them frequently enough. Never a speck of corrosion on any of them yet. (Knock on wood)
Just give all of the friction surfaces a couple of drops and you should be good to go. If it's not too tight, the gun will function fine dry, but obviously will show some wear.
If you don't like runny lubes getting dirt in the crevices and making things gritty, try a few dabs of white lithium grease. Works great, and pretty much stays where you put it.
 
I feel wet just from reading this thread.
You dont need a lot of lube on the 1911 - but you you do need some in the right places.

If you put too much oil in your gun it will "bleed" the oil. If your bleeding, at all, then your using too much.

------------------
"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." - Sigmund Freud
Hey, have I mentioned my new book? It is called:
MEN ARE FROM MARS and WOMEN JUST NEED TO DEAL WITH IT!
 
"If your bleeding, at all, then your using too much."
********
I'd like to think that, "If your bleeding, at all, then your'e missing your TARGET !" ;)
********

Just found the LUBE post !

Since it is the last hurrah of the 20th century a year from now, I feel that it is not realistic to refrain from using the latest in lubrication technology. I begin by using titanium nitride coated parts to lower the coefficient of friction. All other bearing surfaces, locking lugs on the barrel and in the slide and all moving parts should be treated with several coats of the very best dry moly disulphide lube that you can obtain.
Brownells has one that is excellent, but expensive.
Dry moly lube should be attended to whenever the pistol is cleaned. Solvent may wash some away, but why be stingy...it doesn't cost THAT much.
Clean and lube your magazines and mag followers often, using the dry lube.
Barrels, bushings and bushingless systems have to be coated more heavily than some other parts.
Barrels can be treated internally with one of the new bore coating solutions to slightly increase velocity and help to prevent fouling from sticking.
Some who carry the 19ll type pistol lube the bushingless barrels or in some cases barrels with tight bushings,slide stop pins and swing links with a heavy pressure lube like those used to lube lathe centers. But, stay away from graphite lubes; buy the ones that look like and have the consistency of honey.
Oil is the very worst thing that you can use to lube a pistol or any other firearm. It worked for me when I was young, but today is today. Oil attracts powder and primer residue, grit, blowing dust and all kinds of impedimenta and grunge that will render a pistol less reliable. Grease is more or less in the same category, but it will not run to the low spots by gravity or migrate by capillarity, killing primers and staining clothes as oil will. (Remember the old double barrel shotgun in the corner of the farmhouse kitchen? The reason the stock was rotted out where it joined the receiver was due to the fact that oil migrated there over the years.)
Modern technology has allowed the firearms industry to offer several excellent plated finishes. These lower the coefficient of friction to offer a measure of lubricity. But, beware! I recently had a Browning Hi Power hard chrome plated via a propriatary chrome plating process and the result was a disaster. It functioned normally when it was blued, but plated, the slide operated at a few thousand miles an hour and the brass ejected as fast as the bullet left the barrel. My customer didn't think he could handle it with a forty pound recoil spring, and he wasn't impressed with my suggestion that we sand blast the mating surfaces and pound in tar and okum, so he flogged it at a gun show. Pretty thing, but deadly on both ends.
Now: About lubricating sights. Odd how many shooters never bother to lubricate the windage and elevation mechanism of their adjustable sights and then complain that they don't work properly. I use a tiny drop of ultra fine instrument oil, such as that used to lube a micrometer or dial indicator. And, I mean a TINY drop. You don't want crud to collect on the w. and e. screw bodies.
Reverse plugs and spring guides with front plugs bear watching. You may be percolating along beautifully and then suddenly get unexplained malfunctions that others on the range may diagnose as everything from volcanic ash to the political situation. Remove the recoil system, borrow granny's reading specs and examine the linear surface of the guide. You will probably detect very fine chatter marks from the thin bearing surface of the spring plug. Polish the rod in a linear direction with 600 grit paper and or run it on a buffing wheel charged with very fine abrasive. Re-lube it and re-install the recoil system.
By VBR John Lawson (Parabellum 9) on http://www.gunspot.com
*******
The only part that shouldn't be excessively oiled would be the trigger bow area.
Having oil drip from every nook & cranny is not as detrimental as having a slippery trigger ! :( ;)


------------------
"The Gun from Down Under !"
http://www.para1911fanclub.w3.to/
E-mail hotshot_2000@hotmail.com
Alternate E-mail
HS2000@ausi.com
 
Very good post HS...
You hit the X ring.

------------------
"A fear of weapons is a sign of retarded sexual and emotional maturity." - Sigmund Freud
Hey, have I mentioned my new book? It is called:
MEN ARE FROM MARS and WOMEN JUST NEED TO DEAL WITH IT!
 
HS, I'm with you on use of dry moly disulphide. I use Dow Corning spray, which,
when dries, forms a film of antifriction
coating. Works very well.

You covered the whole topic real well.
Nothing else to add to it.
 
red bull, i noticed that you mentioned living in hot climates. it appears that you lube accordingly, but have you ever seen a frozen gun? it's really sad. aside from how to lube a particular gun, choice of lube is important. i've shot my 1911 'dry' in freezing weather with excellent results. actually i use a teflon based lube on a clean gun. for several days prior to use, clean and lube, then the next day dry, and lube, etc., and then wipe dry before going out. in moderate weather i like clp, and like you, when it gets hot, i like a good grade of gun grease on the moving parts. the biggest culprit, though, is dirt. soaking one down will only collect unwanted crud.
 
Wow you guys make me feel UNDER lubed. hahaha. But seriously.. when I'm STORING my guns I spray the crap out of them with wd-40 or Rem-oil. wipe off the excess and put them back in the safe. Take them out every month or so to inspect/wipe off accumulated dirt from the safe etc.

But when I'm gonna CARRY one i take it apart and wipe ALL the lube off of it and put it back together. CLP and other lubes DO LEAVE a fine film that isn't washed away by wiping it down. So carrying the gun "dry" isn't something I worry about too much.

I did have an OVERlube problem witha ruger 22 autopistol once when i used gunslick grease on the bolt.. the velocity of the bolt increased such that it would NOT extract the fired cases and it became a jammamatic. I had to wash the bolt in alcohol and gave it a two drops of rem-oil.. went back to working flawlessly. dad had a similar problem when the firing pin of his remmington 760 FROZE in subzero weather (had too much grease on the spring and it turned to mucky baby-poo consistancy yuck). Luckily he wasn't trying to shoot an elk at the time.

I have used that same gunslick grease on my seecamp framed 1991a1, to lube the transfer bar, which works quite well...(that double action trigger is a LONG pull) but i have NEVER greased the barrel, locking lugs or bushing... on ANY of my 45 autos... is this REALLY necessary??

I know there are some guns PRONE to failure with over lubing (ie Lugers) but the 1911 is DESIGNED to be used in a variety of hostile environments IE "combat conditions" the tolerances are left a little "loose" intentionally so dirt.. grease.. water.. excess lube etc CAN migrate OUT of the gun when firing. Those "expensive" 45 autos like gold gups, springfield national match and kimbers etc built for TARGET shooting with tighter tolerances etc IMHO are MORE prone to failures due to overlubrication/dirt/powder fouling/residue tec. I can easliy run 250-300 rounds of reloads through one of my colts (5 grains of RED DOT and a 200 grain swc), field strip it wipe it off with a rag and keep shooting... but yeah I clean the HELL out of it when i get home.

So who is right here? I mean I've been DOING IT this way for 20 some years.

Dr.Rob
 
Hmmm....Well, I dont lube my 1911's any differently than my Sigs or any other semi-auto, for that matter. I use LSA, and simply put a few drops on the areas where metal slides against metal and I'm done with it. Never had a failure, or any problems what-so-ever. I do put a little more lube on than normal if just storing it, and wipe it down occasionally with a silicone cloth, then fieldstrip and wipe off eccess lube before carrying or firing.

------------------
"To die as a warrior means to have crossed swords and either won or lost without any consideration for winning or loosing. There is just not enough time and generally not enough strength in the resolve of any man to do otherwise"-Miyamoto Musashi
 
I simply put a very light coat of clp on any part that contacts another. The thinner the coating, the better within reason, naturally.(In my opinion) But never have I worried about over lubing my 1911, the tolerences are such that I have found even if I was to "soak" my gun in oil, it will function flawlessly for longer than I can afford to shoot it at one sitting :)
A 1911 really is a forgiving gun, if there is such a thing. and will work correctly under most conditions. I would worry more about underlubing than over. The excessive wear of underlubing is more likely cause problems than the "gunk" fouling the weapon.
 
After cleaning mine I use Hoppes gun oil a few drops around the hammer, trigger and all associated springs. For hard access spots I use Remmington gun lube with Teflon. The I take a bore swab or other handy soft cloth and wipe off all excess Try to keep it simple.

------------------
gun control is people control
 
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