Proper cleaning of an M1A

K

kgs

New member
I need some input on the proper cleaning procedures for an M1A. The Springfield Armory pamphlet that came with my "loaded M1A" states that disassembly should be kept to an absolute minimum. It's almost if they mean you really shouldn't clean it too often. :confused:

I notice that after shooting mine, the inside of the receiver and the bolt gets pretty cruddy looking, especially the brass shavings that gets stuck in the grease in various areas. This can't be good. How far down should I strip my rifle and what is the best way to clean it? Also what is the best cleaner to use? CLP, Tetra etc...

Finally, what areas get grease?

Thanks guys!


kgs.
 
Basically you want grease anywhere there is metal to metal contact. Along the side of the barrel, in the handguard cut where the oprod rides, the bolt roller, the bolt rails, the raised portion of the rear of the bolt, etc.

Another point often overlooked is the metal band on the gas tube where it hooks under the front of the stock. A little grease between these 2 parts will eliminate friction that could affect POI.

I think you can do a pretty decent job of cleaning an M1A without taking it down, but you will occasionally need to, and when you do you should take the opportunity to pack grease in the bolt roller since you can't really get any grease in there with out at least removing the bolt.
 
I shouldn't have to take it apart more than once a year, if that. I didn't have mine apart for much longer and when I "thought" it should be cleaned I took it apart and it really wasnt that dirty on the inside.
Clean what you can from the breech with CLP or solvent and an AP brush(toothbrush), wipe off and use grease to lube. If you have it bedded don't get out of hand with solvents to where they run into the stock. A drop on your AP brush here and there should do fine.
Also, when you clean the bore the rifle should be placed upside down so cleaning solvents don't run into the gas piston. Gas system should remain dry and free of oil/solvent.
When the bolt is locked to the rear, look into the "hole" that is left under the handguard by the op rod and grease the little bit of barrel you see there. The op rod rides along the bottom and you will probably see wear there where it touches.
Hope this helps
 
Since you have a "loaded" version, it's not glass bedded, and this stuff is a little overboard, but it still may help a little.

No offense to the other guys that have already posted, but a definition of "taking it apart" is in order.

You shouldn't have to take the rifle out of the stock more than once a year.

You can take the rest of the rifle apart as much as you like.

The bolt, trigger assy, and gas system can be removed without taking the stock off. (Be careful when taking out the trigger assy, though, as that's what holds the receiver to the stock, and as we've already said, you don't want to seperate them very often. Basically the only part you can't clean with the rifle in the stock is the op rod assy, which is a low maintenance part anyway.

As stated already, clean the bore upside down so that the solvents don't run into the bedding.

Now if you ever decide to glass bed the rifle, then you'll definately want to follow the "rules" when it comes to cleaning.

I'll be glass bedding my "loaded" soon.

P.S. BTW, do you have a buttstock cleaning kit for it yet? No rifleman should be without one. It's not for regular use, it's for an emergency, when the rifle is helping to save your life and it needs to be cleaned and greased. Pick one up for less than $10 from Fred's. Use a one piece cleaning rod when you're at home.
 
This has been covered well but I can't let one of these posts go by without recommending Scott Duff's book "M14 Owners Guide". His book is great and clears up what you realy need to know as far as maintenance of your baby. If your really into it, pick up a copy of Kuhnhausens shop manual for NM upgrades and every, I mean every mechanical detail you could think of. Scott Duff's book is pretty cheap but Kuhnhausens book will set you back $50, IMHO both are worth every dollar paid. Good Luck


Brian
 
MouseGun, and where does one find Scott Duff's book?
My M1A SuperMatch has been out of the stock 5 times in 15 years. I loosen the trigger group tension for long term storage.
 
M1A, Proper Cleaning...........more.....

kgs,
another item of import, if you shoot your rifle very much, this needs to be done around every 450/500 rounds.
Go to your local Industrial Supply house, and purchase a letter "P", drill bit, and a # 16 drill bit.
These will be used to remove the carbon that builds up in your gas piston.

Use the "P", bit first, don't go overboard, but use enough pressure to remove the carbon.
When you have most of this out, then follow with the # 16 bit, same procedure.

Again, do not get over zealous, and use a LOT of force.
Do this only with your hand......NO POWER tools.
This is one area that is almost "NEVER", touched in the cleaning regime on an M1A.......

It is very important, to the life of your OP ROD, and wear and tear on your reciever, and bolt, and roller assy.
What happens is these orfices fill up with carbon, and as they do it causes the rifle to greatly increase the op rod speed, and thereby accelerating the wear,and tear.

Reason being, the port gas pressure rises to a level it was never intended to be......in essence, the rifle will self destuct, and even get to the point of short cycling.
A lot of M1A's have been sold at bargain basement prices, just for this reason...the owners think they have a bad problem, and shuck it.( over a $ 40.00 part, or cleaning).

Another thing you might do, on the drill bits,if you have a bench grinder, blunt the tips just a tad.
You do not want to remove ANY metal.

Also, there is NO place for any OIL on an M1A.......period.
Grease ONLY.

When you have the gas system open, use some Hoppe's 9, on a .45 cal brush( worn one), and wrap a patch around the brush, and clean the insides of your gas cylinder.

Don't drown it, but get it damp, and let it set for a while.
Then clean it out with a couple of wet/ then / dry patches.
Hope this helps you out, a properly maintained m1A will last a very long time, they are as you know, expensive, so take care of it, and it will take care of you.........fwiw...:)

[Edited by Tshoes on 02-22-2001 at 10:14 PM]
 
Oh yeah, I was focused on where to use grease and forgot this bit (pun intended)!

To add to Tshoes important points, you'll need a gas tube wrench to disassemble the gas system and get to the parts you'll use the bits to clean. If you try this with out that wrench, you're gonna either scratch up your rifle, twist something out of alignment or both. Creedmore, Brownells and several other places sell kits that include every thing you need to accomplish this task, the gas tube wrench, the approprtiate box end wrench, and the 2 bits in screwdriver handles.

You can tell if you need to do this by locking the bolt back and moving the rifle from a 45 deg muzzle up postion to a 45 deg muzzle down postion. Listen to the gas piston slide back and forth. If there is any sticking, its time to clean the gas system.

There is a torque specification for the nut on the gas system but I don't know what it is off the top of my head.

At any rate before you start you'll want to mark a line on the nut, down to the gas tube to check your alignment. When you put the rifle back together, tighten it back to where it lines up, and your zero should be close to the same.

Anytime you loosen or tighten this nut, expect to see some shift in your zero. By marking it, you have some idea where to tighten it back to if you notice it's come loose.
 
Hi! kgs
You got a lot of good advice here on what you ask about, but their is still a whole bunch you can learn about your M1A that you didn`t ask that you may like to know.
I also have an M1A "not a loaded one" and learned about things I never even thought about asking, at Lane`s CSP Tips.
http://www.shootingworld.net/lane/csptips.html

Anybody that owns an M1-M1A/M14 needs to check out this site, I refer to it often, tons of info.
 
In addition to the above, the gas cylinder plug should be tightened to 15 ft.lbs. +or- 2 ft.lbs. and mark it as Hipower recommended during disassembly. Also I add a little grease on the plug threads to prevent any gauling or seizure.

Brian
 
Great advice from everyone. I'd just emphasize again that it's not necessary to clean a rifle every time it's shot. I know this goes against what most of us were taught as kids or in Basic Training. In fact I'm certain more barrels have been ruined by over zealous cleaning than by neglect. For an military autoloader like the M1A a detailed clean every 400 - 500 rounds is plenty. Between cleanings mop the bore with a little CLP and, if you want, clean the fouling from boltface & action with an old tooth brush. -- Kernel
 
simple

InSight gun cleaner - non-toxic, very efficient

Mil-Comm's TW-25b lubricant protectant - only the best

DO NOT FOLLOW US MILITARY USERS MANUALS. THEY WERE LAST UPDATED WHEN WE STARTED SENDING ADVISORS TO VIETNAM.

TW-25B, in particular, is now being spec'd into a long list of US gun system programs for a good reason. It excels.

Bestdefense.com sells both lines.
 
"DO NOT FOLLOW US MILITARY USERS MANUALS. THEY WERE LAST UPDATED WHEN WE STARTED SENDING ADVISORS TO
VIETNAM."

How right you are! Included with the Loaded M1A I just bought was the "TM 9-1005-223-12, Operator and Organizational maintenance manual, 7.62-mm Rifle M14...", dated Jan. 1963. :)

There does appear to be some decent mechanical information in it though.

Seriously, I appreciate reading all the helpful comments from everyone. I tend to be overly cautious and read too much before attempting any serious disassemply on a firearm I'm not yet familiar with. This is after not being cautious enough in times past. I spent too much on this M1A and don't want to take any chances during cleaning/disassembly.

Thanks again!
Todd
 
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