Project Gun?

M

Mosin-Marauder

New member
I'm looking for a gun in REALLY rough condition to fix up. I'm doing my Senior Project on gunsmithing, and I want to get my feet wet, so to speak. I have a lot of tools at my disposal, and even more time. I looked at the Francotte Martini Henrys IMA is selling, but I'd also like to shoot it after it is cleaned up and everything, and a Nepalese Martini Is not ideal. Any recommendations? I'd like to spend less than $200 on the gun itself, preferably under $100. But I'm not trying to sell it or make a profit, just fix a really neglected and abused gun. I'm going to look around at some pawn shops, but I thought I might ask you guys if there are any options online first.

Thanks!
 
Consider a Mosin Nagant M91/30 and turn it into a sniper rifle would be pretty cool to finish your assignment, or maybe a Swiss K1911 but might be a little more than $200.
 
Make a bolt for a 99 Savage. That ought to keep you busy for a while. Or, a bolt for an Arisaka. Either one you can use 4140 and HT to around 38-40 RC. Should not cost a lot to buy an example of either one on ebay. Might even impress your instructors (If it works out).
 
I believe that my brother in Gulfport, MS picked several firearms at his girlfriends mothers estate sale in Meridian. Many items from this sale ended in museums.

He acquired several pieces including a Commission rifle, A Vetterlli, a old muzzle loader rifle, muzzle loader pistols, an old SAvage 22lr that I'm not familiar with at all. The condition of the Vetterlli and the Commission are solid and seemed to cycle in the brief time I had to fondle them.

There were items that brought people from all over. There were thousands of arrowheads and spear heads. Some it in very creative designs. there were antique spinning wheels that brought big money. This was a four weekend long auction, comprising thousands of items. I wish that I had the funds to participate.

I know my brother is not a collector and he did not pay very much for any of these pieces. If you're curios I'll find out exactly what the pieces are.
 
Scour the gun and pawn shops. If you have a senior project mentor lined up, maybe they can help you with that also. Any gunsmith worth his salt ought to be able to round up a couple of worthy candidates.
 
I would probably choose an Arisaka.

But what do you really want to show? I know you are in high school so i'm sure you're going to show pictures of the process. Is your hope to restore it to original condition or turn it into a good scoped hunting/target rifle?

I could see fitting it into a boyd stock, shortening the barrel, adding better ramp sights, drilling and tapping for a scope and bending the bolt handle.
 
If it's sporterized or in original form but in terrible condition, I'll keep it or convert it to original issue form. If it's beyond saving and is bubba'd beyond unsporterizing, I'll make a swell sporter out of it. I've tracked down a sporterized Enfield that is in pretty rough shape. We shall see what kind of work is required.
 
Mo,
Beware of the severely beat-to-spit Enfield, the bolt headspace may be excessive & replacement heads are easy to install, but not as easy to find as they once were.
Denis
 
What kind of refinishing will you be able to do? Are you willing/able to strip a gun metal to reblue, or are you looking for something with a decent metal finish and more in need of replacement parts/wood finish?
 
I would mostly be looking for worn stock, broken parts, and possibly worn bluing if I want to try a bit of cold bluing (or rust bluing).

Thanks for telling me about that on the Enfield, Denis, I wasn't aware of the head space problem. I may skip the enfield and get something different If the enfield is in really bad and really rough shape. A Shotgun or something maybe.
 
One of the unique aspects of the Enfield system is the very simple way headspace can be "adjusted" in worn bolts.

The rear-locking Enfield bolt has a screw-on head, which came in different sizes/lengths for quick armorer repairs.
As the bolt shortened with repeated firing, the old head was screwed off & the next size was screwed on. Or whichever size was needed.

No tools needed.
No skill required.

So simple even a Cavemo could do it, IF a Cavemo could find the correct replacement head. :)
They turn up here & there, but they've gotten scarcer over the years.

Headspacing is a known "wear" issue in the design with that rear-locking bolt that compresses minutely on each shot, and something you should be aware of if you're looking for an Enfield as a project.

That said, one of the guns I most deeply regret selling 35 years ago was a nice little sporterized Enfield carbine cut back from a full-length rifle & Monte Carlo stocked.
Denis

Edited to add: An old Mauser might be a better project for you. LOTTA stock options, aftermarket parts, barrels, sights, etc. Get a good bore, try for matching numbers, go to town.
 
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A Mauser seems like a wise choice, I don't like rear locking mechanisms, at all. I will be on the lookout for one such Mauser. Thanks for your help, Denis!

And cavemo, that's pretty good. :D
 
I've got a .22 semi that belongs to my dad that is well beaten and in need of serious TLC. The front sight is missing, the metal is rusted, etc. I'd send it down (to an FFL of course) and pay for parts if you want to fix it and send it back.
 
"...A Mauser seems like a wise choice..." Moreso than a Martini-Henry. Finding parts for a Martini-Henry would likely make you crazy.
A No. 4 Lee-Enfield is a bit easier to fix headspace on than a No. 1. No. 4 bolt heads are numbered 0 - 3. No. 1 bolt heads are not. You still need proper headspace gauges, but on a No. 4 you can try one number higher. A No. 1 requires a handful of bolt heads(at roughly $20 each. No. 4 bolt heads are about the same money. Not all numbers are easy to come by though.) to try with the gauges. If you have a #3 bolt head already, you need a machine shop.
Cold bluing is for touch ups, not whole firearms. Hard to get the cold bluing even over large surfaces.
 
I've gone through about 8 Enfields over the years.
The current 1955 No4 MKII is the one that'll stay.
No history to it, never issued, but the apex of the line in my opinion.

I would not want to walk through the minefield of another beat-to-hell sample & have to chase down bolt heads & other peripherals.

The Mausers offer so much more as project guns with so much less hassle. :)

Just look for matching numbers on bolt & action, and preferably a good bore.
The rest you can find without much effort.
Denis
 
Brian, if you dont mind my asking, what brand/model is it? I don't know how much I could do for the metal other than Remove as much rust as I could and then possibly get it reblued or cold blue it myself, but I could certainly refinish and clean up the wood and possibly make a new sight if I cant get a replacement. I am just not sure If I should start on someone else's gun in case I screw up.
 
Mo,
Best to understand cold blue is typically used for touch-up only & not an entire re-blue.

And if you don't have access to hot bluing tanks yourself, he could probably afford a re-blue on it better'n you could. :)
Denis
 
I agree with Denis. Cold bluing is best for small scratches and touch ups. Does not compare to a proper bluing job. Good re bluing involves lots of polishing, and then comes the part with heat and chemicals that can be dangerous to do incorrectly.

I would look for something with metal finish in pretty decent condition, requiring wood refinishing and maybe parts replacement/repair/fabrication (replacing springs and sights, addressing headspace etc).

What are the criteria for a project?
 
Centerfire Systems has some very good deals on so-called 'gunsmith specials' like SKSs, 22LR bolt guns, and even coach guns at the moment

Also, why not rust-blue? Requires no toxic chemicals, is dirt cheap, and costs literally nothing but your own time (which is perfect for the hobbyist). Gives a better result in the end, also.

TCB
 
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