Problems with the Lyman 55 powder measure...

F

FoghornLeghorn

New member
...and 4350 cylindrical powder.

The handle will go to the halfway mark and stop. It stops until I manage to cut a cylindrical flake of powder in two. Then it dumps the charge.

But it takes significant effort to cut the powder.

It this what Lyman means when they print the caveat, "..measures almost any powder with ease...?"
 
A little effort is normal.

Take the measure apart then inspect the cutting edges of the metering cavity and measure body. They should be sharp.

If they're dull or rough, that's why stick/cylinder powders are harder to meter easily. Solution is usually replacement.

If they're sharp, clean all the powder residue out of the measure, reassemble then try again. If no fix, contact its maker then ask for help.
 
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Thanks. The part that needs replacing is the Metering Cylinder Assembly. According to the Lyman parts page that has to be fitted at the factory.

I bought this thing used. Shipping, etc, will cost more than what I paid for the whole thing.

Pass.

Thanks again.
 
every powder throw I have ever used will catch on extruded powder. That includes a brand new off the shelf '55' and a $400 Culver Classic.The $25 Lee Perfect throws work best with extruded stick powder because the plastic seems to be more forgiving of catches

If you think yours is "dull" then sharpen the edge with a diamond hone but it will still catch
 
To ease the number of powder "sticks" cut with the extruded powders , set the slides to create a narrow deep cavity , this lessens the powder "sticks" that will need need to be cut . The 55 is still the best measure for these types of powder.

The resistance you feel when cutting powder is normal ...I have felt it catching and cutting the powder sticks even when brand new...this is normal ..
Using ball type or Accurate Arms powders will eliminate this cutting .

Examine the slides and edges , very seldom have I ever heard of them being damaged by cutting powder...maybe the edges can be smoothed out if abused in some way .
I have used the stick powders in my 55 for nearly 50 years and it has no damage from them .
Gary
 
very seldom have I ever heard of them being damaged by cutting powder
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The edges have some small indentations. I bought the measure used but have never used it. The vast majority of my reloading is with a Dillon Square Deal for straight wall cases.

I wonder what the previous owner would have cut to damage the edges like that?
 
FoghornLeghorn said:
The edges have some small indentations. I bought the measure used but have never used it. The vast majority of my reloading is with a Dillon Square Deal for straight wall cases.

I wonder what the previous owner would have cut to damage the edges like that?
Click to expand...
Smooth out the nicks , if possible tap displaced metal back in place ,
Unless the previous owner was cutting something other than powder the nicks shouldn't be too bad .
Use the trick of setting the cavity with a deep and narrow cavity ...this cuts down on the "cutting" (sorry about the bad pun)
Gary
 
I have two 55's and have no trouble related to the rotor. I find it hard to believe the thing is nicked up. It would be helpful to have a photograph. Actually you have three cavities with the 55. Start with the largest and move down. I also have the blackpowder model. All three work very well except for the two with plastic reservoirs. Need to get new reservoirs. Personally, I'd go back to Lyman.
 
I’ve had a Lyman 55 since the early 80’s. Never had a problem with it, though there was a learning curve on how to set the powder cavities. I retired the 55 about 8 years ago and went with a Lyman electronic. The Lyman died last week, and I had to dust off the old ‘analog’ gear, which worked fine but was soooo slow.
 
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